The Diesel Stop banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
724 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I don't want to delete it because I do like it for warmup time. But neighbors complaining when it closes haha. Is there any way I can make a switch to run auto factory settings, and also a manual off and for it to not close ? Someone chime in and any pictures, schematics, etc in assistance is welcome!


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
585 Posts
It would be easily doable. Most of the times when you add a switch for the EBPV, it's to turn it into a free exhaust brake - that would give you manual control over it, but would not prevent the PCM from operating it. You would need a second switch to break that both.


Do a search for the modification to turn the EBPV into an exhaust brake. That will give you what you need to know to control it manually. If you do that modification, you'll be splicing into the wire from the PCM that controls the EBPV. You could simply cut that wire and add some wire to run to another switch in the cab that could disable the EBPV completely.
 
  • Like
Reactions: NOSPARKPLUGZ

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,876 Posts
Yeah man. Just need a switch to interrupt the signal wire. Should be gray/red tracer.
You'll find the plug under the turbo.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: NOSPARKPLUGZ

·
Registered
Joined
·
724 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It would be easily doable. Most of the times when you add a switch for the EBPV, it's to turn it into a free exhaust brake - that would give you manual control over it, but would not prevent the PCM from operating it. You would need a second switch to break that both.


Do a search for the modification to turn the EBPV into an exhaust brake. That will give you what you need to know to control it manually. If you do that modification, you'll be splicing into the wire from the PCM that controls the EBPV. You could simply cut that wire and add some wire to run to another switch in the cab that could disable the EBPV completely.

Great so I could make it be on the off position and when I cold start it, it won't activate right? And then when i want it to come auto I jus flip the switch right ? Also what's the side effect of the exhaust brake? Wouldn't it hurt the truck, would i need valve springs? Would it "float" the truck? Thx guy


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,876 Posts
Yes.
And you could get a dpdt switch so you could run auto-off-on.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: NOSPARKPLUGZ

·
Registered
Joined
·
724 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Great so I could make it be on the off position and when I cold start it, it won't activate right? And then when i want it to come auto I jus flip the switch right ? Also what's the side effect of the exhaust brake? Wouldn't it hurt the truck, would i need valve springs? Would it "float" the truck? Thx guy


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

Yea ok I may do that switch then. But would the Ex brake hurt the truck? Many Guys say it's good and terrible. Unless they do upgrades to the valve springs etc. what do you think ?


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,876 Posts
I did it, until I deleted it completely.
It worked. Most likely won't hurt the engine. But there is always that one weird case.
Just don't go trying to use it at really high rpms.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: NOSPARKPLUGZ

·
Registered
Joined
·
585 Posts
Using the EBPV as an exhaust brake won't hurt anything. If you forget to turn it off while using it as an exhaust brake, you won't have any engine power and you'll drive up the EGT due to the restriction in the exhaust. You should only be using it at idle anyway, so it doesn't hurt a thing as long as you use it as intended. The valve springs should be fine - it's not a jake brake like the big rigs have. You would rarely use it unless you do a lot of towing across mountains. No need to use it on an unloaded truck, but it sure is nice when you have a lot of weight behind you.


I have mine hooked up with DPDT switch. In the OFF position, it functions automatically under PCM control. In one ON position, it is always on. In the other ON position, it only comes on if the brake pedal is pressed. A second switch for the gray/red wire that 79jasper mentioned can disable it completely. If you want to add the exhaust brake function, the second switch for disabling it completely would be really easy to do since you have to splice into the same wire.
 
  • Like
Reactions: NOSPARKPLUGZ

·
Registered
Joined
·
724 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Using the EBPV as an exhaust brake won't hurt anything. If you forget to turn it off while using it as an exhaust brake, you won't have any engine power and you'll drive up the EGT due to the restriction in the exhaust. You should only be using it at idle anyway, so it doesn't hurt a thing as long as you use it as intended. The valve springs should be fine - it's not a jake brake like the big rigs have. You would rarely use it unless you do a lot of towing across mountains. No need to use it on an unloaded truck, but it sure is nice when you have a lot of weight behind you.


I have mine hooked up with DPDT switch. In the OFF position, it functions automatically under PCM control. In one ON position, it is always on. In the other ON position, it only comes on if the brake pedal is pressed. A second switch for the gray/red wire that 79jasper mentioned can disable it completely. If you want to add the exhaust brake function, the second switch for disabling it completely would be really easy to do since you have to splice into the same wire.

Yea I prob won't use the exhaust brake. I would just do a switch for pcm control, always off, and always on. Anybody point me to a thread on this or anything thanks guy ur helping me a lot and thanks Jasper


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
585 Posts
I used this diagram:
http://www.dieselbombers.com/attach...turning-your-ebpv-into-exhaust-brake-ebpv.pdf


You could take this diagram and easily modify it for an ON-OFF-AUTO setup. Look at the diagram where the brake switch connects. Instead of connecting the brake switch to this terminal, just connect the wire coming from the PCM to that terminal. You could eliminate the diodes shown in the circuit if you connect it that way. If you don't want any lights showing you the status of the exhaust brake, you could use a SPDT switch instead of a DPDT switch (single pole double throw instead of double pole double throw).


Just find the gray/red wire at the EBPV. Cut this wire. You'll need to splice a length of wire on to each of the cut ends and run it into the cab. The piece of wire going to the EBPV would connect to the center terminal of the switch shown in the diagram. The other wire coming from the PCM would connect to one of the ON positions. A switched +12V source would connect to the other. In the ON position, your switched +12V source would be connected to the EBPV and it would always be on (this would be your poor man's exhaust brake). With the switch in OFF, neither the switched +12C source or the PCM will be connected to the EBPV. In the other ON (your AUTO position), the PCM would control the EBPV automatically.
 
  • Like
Reactions: NOSPARKPLUGZ

·
Registered
Joined
·
724 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I used this diagram:
http://www.dieselbombers.com/attach...turning-your-ebpv-into-exhaust-brake-ebpv.pdf


You could take this diagram and easily modify it for an ON-OFF-AUTO setup. Look at the diagram where the brake switch connects. Instead of connecting the brake switch to this terminal, just connect the wire coming from the PCM to that terminal. You could eliminate the diodes shown in the circuit if you connect it that way. If you don't want any lights showing you the status of the exhaust brake, you could use a SPDT switch instead of a DPDT switch (single pole double throw instead of double pole double throw).


Just find the gray/red wire at the EBPV. Cut this wire. You'll need to splice a length of wire on to each of the cut ends and run it into the cab. The piece of wire going to the EBPV would connect to the center terminal of the switch shown in the diagram. The other wire coming from the PCM would connect to one of the ON positions. A switched +12V source would connect to the other. In the ON position, your switched +12V source would be connected to the EBPV and it would always be on (this would be your poor man's exhaust brake). With the switch in OFF, neither the switched +12C source or the PCM will be connected to the EBPV. In the other ON (your AUTO position), the PCM would control the EBPV automatically.

This is great thanks you helped a lot



Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
724 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·

·
Registered
Joined
·
585 Posts
I used a 20 amp switch which is way more than that circuit will ever draw. The wire to EBPV is either 18 or 20 AWG, which is rated for less current than the switch. A 5 amp switch would probably be more than enough.
I used a switch from Radio Shack. The switch you want is an ON-OFF-ON switch. DPDT switches also come in ON-ON (no center OFF position) and some DPDT switches might have a momentary ON position that spring returns to the center OFF position. I think this was the switch I used:
https://www.radioshack.com/products/20a-dpdt-flip-switch?variant=5717529861
 
  • Like
Reactions: NOSPARKPLUGZ
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top