I second the question. I am also wondering because it seems to be talked about a lot here.
EBPV delete
What exactly does the ebpv delete do? What benefits does it have? Disadvantages? How hard is it to do and how do you do it? Thanks in advance
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
My humble thoughts are:
the EBPV is a movable plate in the turbo outlet housing. It will "close" restricting exhaust flow thus quickening the warm up of the engine. The action of the EBPV is controlled by the PCM based on a bunch of input values (ambient temp, throttle position, etc).
One could submit that this is unnecessary for a vehicle in warmer climates. Also, some suggest that the plate presents a significant restriction to exhaust flow. The actuator rod could develop a leak creating a nusiance oil leak. Also with the multi postion chips available, one could just get a "high idle" selection to accomplish the same thing.
My impression is that the delete is done to ensure maximum exhaust flow, and thus maximize gains from exhaust & turbo mods.
Disadvantage would seem to be losing a warm up feature.
To do the mod, one could disable the actuator and gut the housing, or one could order a housing without the EBPV and a turbo pedestal without the actuator assembly, both available from site sponsors and others.
If you can swap a turbo, you can swap the EBPV parts. The "gutting" takes a bit of ability, but well within the capabilites of most.
If the more seasoned, and experienced mod members would like to comment, please feel free to increase my knowledge.
the EBPV is a movable plate in the turbo outlet housing. It will "close" restricting exhaust flow thus quickening the warm up of the engine. The action of the EBPV is controlled by the PCM based on a bunch of input values (ambient temp, throttle position, etc).
One could submit that this is unnecessary for a vehicle in warmer climates. Also, some suggest that the plate presents a significant restriction to exhaust flow. The actuator rod could develop a leak creating a nusiance oil leak. Also with the multi postion chips available, one could just get a "high idle" selection to accomplish the same thing.
My impression is that the delete is done to ensure maximum exhaust flow, and thus maximize gains from exhaust & turbo mods.
Disadvantage would seem to be losing a warm up feature.
To do the mod, one could disable the actuator and gut the housing, or one could order a housing without the EBPV and a turbo pedestal without the actuator assembly, both available from site sponsors and others.
If you can swap a turbo, you can swap the EBPV parts. The "gutting" takes a bit of ability, but well within the capabilites of most.
If the more seasoned, and experienced mod members would like to comment, please feel free to increase my knowledge.
The EBPV delete is where you pull the turbo and pedestal, drill or grind off the 2 rivets that hold the EBPV butterfly to the shaft and remove the whole thing. I'm not sure how much you know about the EBPV system, but during cold temps outside, oil pressure engages the butterflies to block off part of your exhaust causing a load on the engine, which in turn causes the motor or idle up slightly and warm up quicker. There is a shaft that goes through the exhaust side of the turbo and this shaft has a plate that blocks off part of the exhaust flow. There has been talk of small reductions in EGT's and such. I have gutted mine and just like the way the truck is no longer going to high idle and making more noise and such. I like to control the high idle with my DP chip. It takes just a minute or so longer to warm up with out the EBPV. I was also starting to get a small leak where the small shaft comes out of the pedestal to actuate the EBPV. It just made scence to take it apart, cut off that shaft and plug the hole with a pipe plug. Not having the EBPV anymore, i didnt need the actuater. I know this has been a bit long winded. If you need more info, please let me know.
Tyson
Tyson
For me it was one of the best mods. I honestly feel my truck warms up faster now. The hardest part I found was getting a good 12pt socket to loosen off the somewhat frozen bolts. Once I got them out the rivets on the valve were easy to file/grind off. Most people use a 20mm freeze plug, but I used a 1/2" stainless bolt and double SS nuts to plug the hole with some Oatey thread dope smeared in there. If I ever change the turbo I will get a non-ebpv pedestal. For now I just unplugged the actuator.
Tim
Tim
I did the EBPV delete on my 01 F-350 this past summer and during the warm weather it seemed to run fine. However, in colder weather, it runs terribly. I can let it idle for 10 minutes and still feel like it is lugging. After it warms up, it will run fine again. The cold weather I am referring to is less than 40 deg F but warmer than 25 deg F (it has been a mild winter). I am considering reinstalling the stock pedestal and butterfly valve this spring.
Probably unrelated to the EBPV deleteI did the EBPV delete on my 01 F-350 this past summer and during the warm weather it seemed to run fine. However, in colder weather, it runs terribly. I can let it idle for 10 minutes and still feel like it is lugging. After it warms up, it will run fine again. The cold weather I am referring to is less than 40 deg F but warmer than 25 deg F (it has been a mild winter). I am considering reinstalling the stock pedestal and butterfly valve this spring.
I would also say that this is another issue. I have the EBPV delete for about 3yrs and been -40*C (Canada) with no issueI did the EBPV delete on my 01 F-350 this past summer and during the warm weather it seemed to run fine. However, in colder weather, it runs terribly. I can let it idle for 10 minutes and still feel like it is lugging. After it warms up, it will run fine again. The cold weather I am referring to is less than 40 deg F but warmer than 25 deg F (it has been a mild winter). I am considering reinstalling the stock pedestal and butterfly valve this spring.
Welcome to the forum and I concur with the guys above.
I would investigate other causes than the EBPV delete at temps above 25* F.
When you let it idle for 10 minutes to let it warm up, is your truck automatically increasing the "idle" speed to around 900-1,000 rpm ?
I would investigate other causes than the EBPV delete at temps above 25* F.
When you let it idle for 10 minutes to let it warm up, is your truck automatically increasing the "idle" speed to around 900-1,000 rpm ?
The idle will eventually jump up. I have a superchip that has the high idle setting but I rarely use it. What other cause do you think would cause these symptoms?
Sounds like Low armature clearance on some injectors.
the valve won't help much until it warms up either.
Try running a thinner 5w-40 oil.
the valve won't help much until it warms up either.
Try running a thinner 5w-40 oil.
I did the EBPV delete on my 01 F-350 this past summer and during the warm weather it seemed to run fine. However, in colder weather, it runs terribly. I can let it idle for 10 minutes and still feel like it is lugging. After it warms up, it will run fine again. The cold weather I am referring to is less than 40 deg F but warmer than 25 deg F (it has been a mild winter). I am considering reinstalling the stock pedestal and butterfly valve this spring.
I don't understand why you would not use the superchip "high idle" when you describe issues of the truck running terrible when it is cold.The idle will eventually jump up. I have a superchip that has the high idle setting but I rarely use it. What other cause do you think would cause these symptoms?
Ya high idle would def help.
The temps he is having issues at aren't cold anyway.
The ebpv delete isn't the reason for his issue.
The temps he is having issues at aren't cold anyway.
The ebpv delete isn't the reason for his issue.
Those were my thoughts on the EBPV also.Ya high idle would def help.
The temps he is having issues at aren't cold anyway.
The ebpv delete isn't the reason for his issue.
Op, if you choose to go with EBPV delete, look on rockauto website, they have theEBPV deleted pedestal and outlet for reasonable price i just received them today. Need to install on a body truck. NOT HIGHT FLOW OUTLET
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The guy I bought the truck from installed the superchip selector switch up under the steering column. It is very inconvenient to use. I have been meaning to move it but I haven't got around to it yet.:frown2:I don't understand why you would not use the superchip "high idle" when you describe issues of the truck running terrible when it is cold.
I am using Amsoil SAE 15W-40 Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Oil.Sounds like Low armature clearance on some injectors.
the valve won't help much until it warms up either.
Try running a thinner 5w-40 oil.
Superchips doesn't make a shift on the fly tuner.
It is most likely a ts chip.
Sounds like the previous owner lied to you.
Amsoil is good stuff, but still a 15w when cold.
A 5w-40 would help. Especially if the armature clearances are at two thousands or less
It is most likely a ts chip.
Sounds like the previous owner lied to you.
Amsoil is good stuff, but still a 15w when cold.
A 5w-40 would help. Especially if the armature clearances are at two thousands or less
Bstutz
I had the same issue with my 99. It would start and run fine but would have trouble getting on interstate until oil temp was into the normal zone. I could not figure it out tried new injectors and rebuilt lots of stuff. I just lived with it. Not long ago I found a few threads that talk about the pcm restricting fuel if EBP sensor is not working correctly. I sold the truck before I could try a resistor bypass. Do some searching on ebp sensor and codes after EBPV delete I think it is a pcm thing resulting from the delete. I just spent the day tearing mine out of my new to me 99 so I have to figure it out myself. Post if you figure it out.
DENNY
EDIT: Tried lots of diff oils did not help.
I had the same issue with my 99. It would start and run fine but would have trouble getting on interstate until oil temp was into the normal zone. I could not figure it out tried new injectors and rebuilt lots of stuff. I just lived with it. Not long ago I found a few threads that talk about the pcm restricting fuel if EBP sensor is not working correctly. I sold the truck before I could try a resistor bypass. Do some searching on ebp sensor and codes after EBPV delete I think it is a pcm thing resulting from the delete. I just spent the day tearing mine out of my new to me 99 so I have to figure it out myself. Post if you figure it out.
DENNY
EDIT: Tried lots of diff oils did not help.
IIRC, the EBP sensor only defuels in a CA emissions truck, not a federal emissions engine. Passenger valve cover shows which one it is.
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