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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Turbo brake wiring issue

I have searched and haven't found an issue just like the one I am having now. Way back when, I bought my 2000 F250 new and had studied this forum for about a year before I purchased it. After that, I purchased several add-ons after reading on this forum. One of the items I had installed was an exhaust brake using the EBPV. It was installed with a toggle switch to activate. I have about 208K on the rig, now, and this has really been a great add-on, but today I encountered an issue which hadn't happened before.

I started toward town and noticed the total lack of power and noticed my EGT's were going WAY up on a slight grade. (The toggle switch was on, which has been the default position for me, unless cruising) I couldn't imagine what had happened, then decided to turn off the switch to see, and away I went! Normal.

My assumption is that somehow the EBPV is sticking shut when I activate the switch and creating excessive back pressure? I am in a semi-remote area of Colorado now and need to find someone who can deal with aftermarket items. I don't tow, like I used to, and probably can get by without the exhaust brake, although I like it a lot. I guess I am looking to see if anyone has had a similar issue and how I might direct a mechanic to work on it, as I am 70 years old, now and don't work any harder than I have to. :) Thanks for any feedback!
 

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Sounds like something has gone wrong with your Exhaust Brake wiring. Possibly a short to power somewhere. They can be hard to track down. Do you have records or installation instructions for your Exhaust Brake kit? If so, a mechanic should be able to follow along and track down the problem for you.
 

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For the time being, you can disconnect the wire to the solenoid on the turbocharger pedestal, if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I do think this is an issue with the wiring. I have had some issues with what I believe to be my throttle pedal sensor. Erratically, the "service engine soon" light will come on and the RPMs drop to idle and no response to throttle. I haven't fixed this, yet, but believe I need some lithe young mechanic to crawl in there and replace. This Septagenarian isn't going there. (I might not be able to crawl back out...lol) I did see when I got brave enough to look up there the other day that my exhaust brake wiring goes into that sensor assembly. So...maybe a new sensor and new wiring might take care of this?

I have had erratic cruise control cut out issues related to this exhaust brake, too. Right now, the cruise works 90% of the time, the idle issue happens about 2% of the time, BUT....it could get worse. Somehow in the configuration when the toggle switch has the exhaust brake "on" it will normally go normal when you press on the accelerator, but now, it stays engaged, and that is the problem. I am just running with it in the "off" position, now and it is doing ok. I would give anything if there was someone by who might be sharp enough to understand aftermarket applications, but I am in the boonies this summer!

If anyone accidentally reads this who is in any kind of proximity to Alamosa/Pueblo Colorado, and can recommend a good technician/mechanic...that would be the cure.

In the interim.....if you were me, would you get the Throttle Pedal Sensor replaced and go from there? Does it sound like that would be the likely culprit for what I described where the RPMs drop to idle and won't respond without 'cycling' the ignition multiple times? I have even done it going down the road, where there wasn't a place to pull off....just keep turning the ignition off and on until the throttle pedal responds.
 

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crooner7 said:
I haven't fixed this, yet, but believe I need some lithe young mechanic to crawl in there and replace. This Septagenarian isn't going there. (I might not be able to crawl back out...lol)
I'm starting to resemble that remark. :lol: Not quite there yet, but hate working under the dash.

If they've tied the exhaust brake wiring into the idle validation switch function on the accelerator pedal, that could be the cause of the sketchy accelerator pedal function as well.

Replacing the pedal assembly might not fix that if the problem is on the harness side of the two AP assembly connectors.

You could disconnect the solenoid at the base of the turbo like pikachu suggested, but that probably wouldn't fix the accelerator pedal issue. It would keep the EBPV from closing though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I think I can deal with it as it is, now, except for the pedal issue, which might happen at a very inopportune time. I think I will go ahead and order the pedal assembly, which seems to be a common problem, anyway. I am unsure whether to re-wire the turbo brake back into the new assembly, or just leave it out of the equation. The company which installed the Turbo Brake has long since gone away, so I guess I really need to find someone, if possible, who has a turbo brake on their unit, like mine, and compare wiring etc. It worked ok for a couple of hundred thousand......
 

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This is old but I had a similar issue. I found a short to ground in the MOD Wiring under the dash. It was quite annoying as I also continued to have my running lights short out. Finally I had to do the dash crawl. After weeks of poking with my new hip limiting the time I found it was one ground wire rubbed clean thru to metal and 3 others starting to wear thru. All fixed and new wrap to prevent chaffing. I even added a few extra zip ties to hold things tighter.

Some times we just need to remember factory parts tend to outlast our mods. In this case my mod also effected the factory wires untouched. Lesson learned. IIRC Diesel O rings is nearby for you. He may have a few local shops to recommend. If they frequently buy parts from him without complaints they are probably a pretty decent shop. Ask him for a referral.
 
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