Hi, Garrett makes a pedestal without the hydraulic actuator cylinder. The also make a turbo outlet without the flapper valve. It sells as a kit as well with both items but every place says it will only fit the pick ups.
Blue how are ya? So I looked at Riff Raff and Diesel Orings and it makes no note of it " not for e vans ", like I said I was seeing. I know Om not crazy about having seen twice,"no e vans". Thank you. I will come across it do you don't think I'm crazy. Anyway good to know he can get it.
I'm confused how an outlet flange with three bolts would fit on the side of a turbo for trucks, not that that's what I'm doing but we have way more than that. Can you explain? Are you also saying the side of a van's turbine housing the cover/outlet is only held on with three bolts? It's like six bolts here with a truck turbo.
I looked at 4 of these vans with leaking actuators so I brought up that kit. " you will email me that info Nick"?
I was there for scans and did not look hard at their turbos. I had the doghouse covers off to look at leaking up pipes.
- The van pedestal is a different part number than the 99-03 F series due to an additional heat shield bracket to hold up the turbo heat shield.
Just gut the pedestal and tap/plug the hole with a 1/4"npt plug.
- the "van flange adapter" might not work in vans due to the flange clamp also having a different part number than the pickups. Make sure you are able to return it if it doesn't fit your exhaust.
It is not hard to remove the butterfly valve and plug the hole with a round bolt/nut.
The butterfly in the exhaust outlet is really easy to remove, pop the 2 rivet on the flap and separate the flap from the rod
Remove the C clip on bottom (if I remember) and pull the arm use to open and close the valve in the housing. (Keep the C clip)
When the housing is gutted, you have to plug the hole where the butterfly shaft was. When i did mine i machined down a round stock to 0.0005 interference fit (not to tight make sure the housing will not crack) press it and reinstalled the C clip to make sure the plug doesn't go out.
For the pedestal you can get it machined down like that
The bottom port inside the cylinder was meant to free flow until the outlet port closes, which in turn pushes the piston forward. This means it is not absolutely necessary to plug any ports, although plugging the bottom port may increase oil pressure a bit to the turbo bearings. This may or may not be a good thing as the increased pressure might slow down the turbo due to increased fluid friction.
If you do decide to block the oil passage from free flowing the easy thing to do is to knock a stainless nail into the bottom hole and leave enough sticking out for it to sit flush against the cover plate so it doesn't come out.
Nick, I just bought a Rotomaster non-EBPV pedestal for my E-350 from [email protected] for $87, and the non-EBPV exhaust adapter for $63. The deleted van pedestal is the same as the truck with one difference. It is tapped for the heat reflector stud. I know this is a delayed response, but in the 7.3 diesel van world, any response is good! Hope this helps now or in the future.
Alaska, here you go: Rotomaster (hi flow pedestal) # A1382205N, and Rotomaster (turbo outlet) # A1383801N
For the outlet, you could also use the nice billet one that riffraff sells for about $99, if you would like to just have 3 bolt holes. I buy most things from site sponsors when I can but I couldn't pass this one up! I just got the parts, but waiting for my pyro sender and WW2 so I can do all turbo, up pipes, etc. at the same time.