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Discussion Starter #1
Many 7.3s leak from the turbo charger pedestal.
Many that live in warm climates purchase a pedestal that does not have the exhaust back pressure valve. The factory manual states that it's purpose is to warm the cab faster. It closes the turbo charger's outlet with a butterfly flap restricting exhaust flow. This makes the engine heat up faster than without the feature.
Getting cold oil warm is key to helping reduce wear. In addition the truck will run better sooner.
Ford issued service bulletin TSB 04-20-2.
You remove the intercooler pipes and compressor manifold (y)
Remove turbo and pedestal.
Remove circlip and plug from back of pedestal.
Remove three pipe plugs from pedestal
Attach flex brake cylinder hone to drill.
Clean out cylinder and inspect. The bulletin says to clean and install seal kit assembly.
There is a vendor that says to not hone the cylinder. Being a diesel and hydraulic mechanic dealing with countless cylinders I can say that if the walls of your cylinder are shiny you have a slim chance of the new seal kit lasting very long if the truck will be in an environment with temps that activate that valve with any level of frequency.
The seal that acts as the back of ram only travels a short distance in the cylinder back and forth wearing the wall leaving it shiny and with irregularities.
A new seal is perfectly round and will not seal well against walls in that condition.
Now the bulletin wants ten pounds of pressure preloaded on to the seal/ram assembly. The reason for this is that the cylinder does not act as a centering device for ram. With no load on it it is free to tilt up down or side to side uncentering and un stabilizing the seal arrangement causing the leak.
So we have to put ten pounds of preload changing the seals traveling path and sealing surfaces.
Hone the cylinder with flex hone on slow speed with a medium speed in and out to create cross hatching marks that are at about a 30 degree pattern.
DO NOT take anything but the shining glaze off.
There are oil passages in the front of cylinder and very front against wall.
Pay extreme attention to getting that cylinder and passages clean.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Use sealant one pipe plugs.
I like this product that stands up to gas,oil and diesel.
Regular Teflon thread sealant us not rated for that. If you can't get your hands on it you can use yellow Teflon tape.
 

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Once thoroughly clean wipe oil onto walls of cylinder.
Pour oil over seal assembly and install it and the plug after oiling it's new oring that came with the kit.
Temporarily mount turbo on pedestal and loosely bolt.
Thread on end from kit on rod. Turn on rod to the point it will attach to EBV lever. Continue turning a few times. You may have to tilt turbo back off turbo a small amount for clearances reasons as you turn end.
Now pull end out with vise grips. Place end onto pin as you pull it out.
Place a .010 feeler gauge between lever and stop.
Attach a pull scale and pull. Notice pound reading when feeler gauge falls out.
Adjust so it falls out at ten pounds.
 

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Nice write up Nick , I'll print that out as well even though i have deleted my ebpv it will be a handy bit of information to show others here. Thanks:thumbsup:
 

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GREAT EXPLANATION,
If i ever put my EBPV pedestal back on ill use this
 

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There's nothing like being on the sunny side of the world even if it's winter.:sunny:
 

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i know guys who live in -30 weather and have deleted it, there truck warms up the exact same.

but good write up :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks on compliment.
Your friends are exaggerating or something. That is impossible if you are talking about the EBV and not heater.
An engine all but choked out will warm way way faster,especially with our massive cooling and oiling capacities.
No intended offense to you at all but it's not so what they are telling you.
Where do you live? Your dad's truck is stock start them side by side and call your friends and tell them they buy the beer next time.
 

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Thanks a lot!

Too bad this and other instructions are not made into "Sticky's"
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'm new to a lot of this computer stuff or I woul have just said click here.
I am just performing International's instructions in their rebuild kit which is the same as Ford's service bulletin. I add the cylinder cross hatching.
 

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this should be a sticky. not much info out there about rebuilding the pedestal. and great pictures as usual

and my friends live in canada and have deleted it. i think its more of an issue if you start the truck and let it idle for a while.
but it definitely has its uses. warm up valve, exhaust brake etc
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
My thing is get that oil up to temps as quick as possible to cut down on wear. I also idle a good bit in winter keeping aerosol cans of shop stuff warm while doing repairs or they won't work. When plowing I will have periods when I idle talking to the owner away from truck talking to or helping my worker.
I am glad you like it blue. Doing write ups with pictures is way more work and frustrating with sunshine and angles of view and all that jazz I had never really figured on during the first write up I did. It multiplies the actual time involved in getting the job done.
If it clarifies something for someone, cuts down on trips to the auto parts store and makes the job go easier for one person I accomplished what I set out to do. So thank you for the compliment as it makes it worth the effort.
 

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this should be a sticky. not much info out there about rebuilding the pedestal. and great pictures as usual
DITTO.................. Someone should look into setting up more sticky's.
 

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The reason you want 10 pounds of preload on that spring is because it holds the valve open. Engine oil pressure closes the valve and spring pressure opens it.
 

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I definitely agree with you. some folks wouldn't benefit from getting rid it. it all depends on what you do with the truck and the conditions its in.

im not arguing with you at all just giving a different input.

I think you give some of the best write-ups ive seen. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
No, three pounds will hold it open with no plate flutter.
The name of the bulletin is oil leak for a reason.
The plate in the spring double seal assembly has rubber on it. There is also a valve stem umbrella type seal further back on rod.
Without ten pounds th rubber seal on plate does not seal properly and the whole assembly becomes askew and start shifting and rocking. The disc that has large cup seal on it that the oil pressure acts against must be kept centered and square as much as possible because there is no centering bushing on outlet of hydraulic cylinder due to the arcing radius the EBV linkage tab travels during activavation and release.
So to recap:
Unstable seal arrangement on two of the three seals in that assembly inside of cylinder.
The front plate needs to be pushing hard against front wall of cylinder or it can not seal.
This assembly needs to be pushing hard against front of cylinder to keep rod and seal plate assembly centered so the back large cup seal that the oil pressure acts against is not tilting so when it DOES rock due to arc radius travel it does not tilt so much that it's very shallow cup seal lips do not allow pressurized oil to rush past them.
This is how it works and is why they want ten pounds, hence the name TSB oil leak.
 
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