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Did any of you use this opportunity to back flush your oil cooler?? Has anybody back flushed their oil cooler while installed??
 

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Interesting question

Did any of you use this opportunity to back flush your oil cooler?? Has anybody back flushed their oil cooler while installed??
Interesting question.

The only thing I've read regards trying to flush it in the normal direction - Ford says that is not possible.
 

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Was wondering if anybody found a set of limits for temperatures, other than the often used figure of 15 deg between Engine Oil Temperature and Engine Coolant Temperature? I have afew questions;

1.) Is it the ECT and EOT we are looking for off the OBD II port pickups?( I use the Edge Insight Monitor)
2.) Is a perfect cooler, setup to run the EOT and ECT temperature within a degree or two under ideal conditions? (Ideal is a hard word to measure sometimes:)?
3.) I do oil changes at 10k and Oil analysis every 5k, and have 82,000miles currently on the truck. I have noticed my temperatures are afew degrees further apart than earlier readings?????? All this is under steady state Highway driving in south Florida.....50'F-95"F Outside Air Temps.
4.) The temp spread at 20,000-50,000 miles was usually within 5-10deg, and now it has increased to 10-16deg, and most of the time it is within the upper end staying in the 15deg area?

Truck is running fine, but other posts mention that once you see a 15deg spread -IT IS ALL OVER and time for a new cooler?

Any info or input will be appreciated.

Thanks
Jim
Florida:ford:
 

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Don't wait

Was wondering if anybody found a set of limits for temperatures, other than the often used figure of 15 deg between Engine Oil Temperature and Engine Coolant Temperature? I have afew questions;

1.) Is it the ECT and EOT we are looking for off the OBD II port pickups?( I use the Edge Insight Monitor)
2.) Is a perfect cooler, setup to run the EOT and ECT temperature within a degree or two under ideal conditions? (Ideal is a hard word to measure sometimes:)?
3.) I do oil changes at 10k and Oil analysis every 5k, and have 82,000miles currently on the truck. I have noticed my temperatures are afew degrees further apart than earlier readings?????? All this is under steady state Highway driving in south Florida.....50'F-95"F Outside Air Temps.
4.) The temp spread at 20,000-50,000 miles was usually within 5-10deg, and now it has increased to 10-16deg, and most of the time it is within the upper end staying in the 15deg area?

Truck is running fine, but other posts mention that once you see a 15deg spread -IT IS ALL OVER and time for a new cooler?

Any info or input will be appreciated.

Thanks
Jim
Florida:ford:
Answer to question #1 - yes, although most have a problem picking out the correct choice among the many to set up the Insight.

Answer to question #2 - I'm not sure if Ford claims there is an ideal number, just that EOT should not reach more than 15 degrees above ECT.

Answer to question #3 - I would suspect your oil cooler is beginning its progress towards plugging up.

Answer to question #4 - Yes, Ford uses the 15 degree number to declare that the oil cooler must be replaced due to clogged water passages.

I would suggest to not wait - just do it now or wait for the other ugly consequences - blown EGR cooler, possible head gasket failure or other fun (read very expensive) stuff.
 

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Could someone explain exactly how to replace the orange hose without pulling turbo and pedestal?

Thanks
 

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orange egr hose now blue....basic part #8592 dealer will knw.....the housing that hose connects to 9p456.......btw i do them all day long 20min only remove the cac tube!!!!
[email protected]

Can you please post the details on how you do this?
 

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FYI, I just replaced the new EGR hose (blue one) and I have since found out that if you are not careful putting the newb on, you can damage the o-rings inside the hose. And, back to leaking coolant from a new hose. I was informed to use a pry bar to slide the hose so that it marries up with the oil cooler. We'll see how that works.
 

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Was wondering if anybody found a set of limits for temperatures, other than the often used figure of 15 deg between Engine Oil Temperature and Engine Coolant Temperature? I have afew questions;

1.) Is it the ECT and EOT we are looking for off the OBD II port pickups?( I use the Edge Insight Monitor)
2.) Is a perfect cooler, setup to run the EOT and ECT temperature within a degree or two under ideal conditions? (Ideal is a hard word to measure sometimes:)?
3.) I do oil changes at 10k and Oil analysis every 5k, and have 82,000miles currently on the truck. I have noticed my temperatures are afew degrees further apart than earlier readings?????? All this is under steady state Highway driving in south Florida.....50'F-95"F Outside Air Temps.
4.) The temp spread at 20,000-50,000 miles was usually within 5-10deg, and now it has increased to 10-16deg, and most of the time it is within the upper end staying in the 15deg area?

Truck is running fine, but other posts mention that once you see a 15deg spread -IT IS ALL OVER and time for a new cooler?

Any info or input will be appreciated.

Thanks
Jim
Florida:ford:
25*F/(14*C) My EDGE Insight measures in *F!
 

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I flushed cooling system, replaced coolant with ELC, deleted EGR, and replaced oil cooler. My Delta is still sometimes, under the right conditions, as high as 15 degrees. Ford says be concerned when delta is 20 or more.

I use ScanGage2 as well as three other analog gauges. SG2 is the BEST deal going for getting OBD gauge data.
 

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ECT v. EOT

I had the same questions about the allowable spread. All I could find was 25'F/14'C in TSB 06-3-8.I have an EDGE Insight that measures in 'F. My total temp readings have increased over the last few years. I bought the truck with 25,000 miles, now I have 105,000miles. I have every filter known to man on the truck, and do ALL the fluid changes at the FORD recommended intervals or sooner, and still the temps have increased over the years. The max temps and spread I have seen in the last few weeks are: EOT 210'F and ECT 194'.:read:
 

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losing coolant when truck is sitting, getting a vapor lock no visible leaks seen, where is this water going? can it go in the head, is this a blown head gasket, running at 6 to 7 psi on test
 

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I started a separate thread for this topic but wanted to update both threads for the record. I just discovered why I was leaking coolant at the cooler hose -> it was because I never got the hose connected to the cooler port housing correctly. When I initially did the install I put the hose on and turned it waiting to hear the click that everybody is talking about and never did hear it. I kept trying and it appeared to seal up tight but would never lock in place. As a result coolant would leak out of the hose and you could see the crusty red color of my Zerex ELC. I just now decided to really put some muscle behind it and pushed the hose on extra hard and could feel it give and then seal up extra tight. Then I turned the hose and it finally made the click sound and was definitely locked in place. Hope this helps folks in the future.
 

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How hard is it to pull out the housing? Removing the two torx bolts was easy with the right tools. I have been working on removing the housing for an hour now. The top half came off easily. The bottom half has been a PITA. I still have the hose on. Should I try to cut that in half? It appears that the housing needs to come straight up but all I can get it to do is wiggle around a little bit. I've tried pulling up with channel locks. I've tried prying under it with a screwdriver. Anybody have any advice/hints/secrets?

Thanks
 

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How hard is it to pull out the housing? Removing the two torx bolts was easy with the right tools. I have been working on removing the housing for an hour now. The top half came off easily. The bottom half has been a PITA. I still have the hose on. Should I try to cut that in half? It appears that the housing needs to come straight up but all I can get it to do is wiggle around a little bit. I've tried pulling up with channel locks. I've tried prying under it with a screwdriver. Anybody have any advice/hints/secrets?

Thanks
Sorry I didn't see this post earlier...

Yes, you need to cut the old hose in half to allow you to get the housing off without damaging it, or damaging the top of the oil cooler like I did. Just take a hack saw or key hole saw to cut through the old hose.

There are different view points about the installation of the new hose. I found that it is virtually impossible to get the new hose to seal properly and lock onto the housing if you put the hose on the cooler first and then try to put the housing on after. You need to ensure that you get the hose to lock onto the housing. This means you need to push pretty hard on the hose and then turn it to lock it. You should hear it click.

Then you get the hose to slide over the EGR Cooler port and then you can seat the housing onto the top of then oil cooler assembly. Remember that you will be attaching/sliding the hose onto the EGR Cooler port by feel/blind because you cannot see the cooler port. Good luck. If you don't get the hose to properly seal/lock onto the Oil Cooler Housing it will leak and you will have to take it off and try again.
 

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Sorry I didn't see this post earlier...

Yes, you need to cut the old hose in half to allow you to get the housing off without damaging it, or damaging the top of the oil cooler like I did. Just take a hack saw or key hole saw to cut through the old hose.

There are different view points about the installation of the new hose. I found that it is virtually impossible to get the new hose to seal properly and lock onto the housing if you put the hose on the cooler first and then try to put the housing on after. You need to ensure that you get the hose to lock onto the housing. This means you need to push pretty hard on the hose and then turn it to lock it. You should hear it click.

Then you get the hose to slide over the EGR Cooler port and then you can seat the housing onto the top of then oil cooler assembly. Remember that you will be attaching/sliding the hose onto the EGR Cooler port by feel/blind because you cannot see the cooler port. Good luck. If you don't get the hose to properly seal/lock onto the Oil Cooler Housing it will leak and you will have to take it off and try again.
Thanks for the response. I was able to get everything off and put back together. I have been driving the truck a little since then, and the coolant level in the degas bottle has gone down. I cannot find any leaks around that hose, and am hoping that it is just air escaping from the cooling system. Just figured out how to pull a vacuum on the cooling system, but I guess that will have to wait until the next time I have most of the coolant pulled out.
 

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Glad you got it squared away. If you don't see any coolant/wetness on the top of the HPOP cover (just below the EGR Cooler Hose) then you should be ok. I sometimes notice my coolant level in the degas bottle fluctuates a lot. As long as it doesn't get too low, I wouldn't worry too much.
 

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Glad you got it squared away. If you don't see any coolant/wetness on the top of the HPOP cover (just below the EGR Cooler Hose) then you should be ok. I sometimes notice my coolant level in the degas bottle fluctuates a lot. As long as it doesn't get too low, I wouldn't worry too much.
Drove the truck for over 3 hours today, most of which was at 70 mph and some at 80 mph and there was no coolant loss. The degas bottle was full when I got home. So, I am feeling pretty good about this repair now. Thanks to everybody that contributed to this thread.
 

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Thought I would update this thread for anyone else that runs across this issue. After pulling my EGR cooler to weld it up I had a small coolant leak, had to add about a half gallon of coolant every month. Not a big deal and I didnt notice any fluid on the driveway or anything so I ignored it. Well I was working on my 4x4 hubs and saw coolant leaking from above the starter. Traced it back to the blue coupler. I decided to play with the coupler a bit to see if I could get it to seal. Couldn't really tell if it was leaking or not after but didn't think it would be worse than before. I was wrong, drove to town and when I parked coolant was pouring from the coupler. Got the truck home and first tried to put a hose clamp on the coupler as someone else mentioned. This didn't work for me. I used heater hose without pulling the turbo.

What I did to fix:

1)Did not have to pull the turbo, only the CAC tube and pushed the injector and glow plug harness forwards.
2)Removed the two T30 torx bolts from the coolant tube above the oil cooler. The bolt under the turbo is a B*#&h to get to, but with an angle extension and a socket torx I was able to get it, I had to set the torx back on the bolt about every half turn and then re-mount the angle extention, so it took some time but was doable. I think with a different swivel or attachment it can be removed easier. Diesel Tech Ron (RIP) recommended cutting a torx down and welding it to a swivel.
3) Turn the blue coupler with the notch up so it slides out
4) The hardest part of the job IMO is removing the oil cooler coolant tube assembly, remove the top cover (this is easy) you will see a brass looking circle, this stays in place and the cover pulls up past it. You can't just pry only on one side because it will bind. You also can't put too much pressure or the cover will break. I used a small pry bar on the front and wiggled and pulled up at the back where the coupler attaches to get it out. It took awhile but it did come out unharmed.
5)My coupler remained on the EGR cooler when I pulled the assembly up and out so I used some channel locks to get the coupler out (make sure its still positioned correctly
6) I used 3/4 Gates heater hose cut 1/4" longer than the coupler,and two hose clamps. I tightened the front hose clamp all the way down onto the oil cooler coolant inlet, and slid the other hose clamp up next to it, snugged it so it held position but not so tight I couldn't slide it back.
7) Now slide the hose over the EGR cooler tube and press the oil cooler inlet back and down in place. (it goes in easier than it comes out) Slide the rear hose clamp to the back of the hose being careful to position it so you can still reach it with a screwdriver next to the turbo pedestal.
8) Put the top cover back on (my gasket looked fine, but i used a little rtv around it) Tighten the T30 torx back down. I torqued to 8ft lbs, idk what the torque should be but seemed about right

That's it, I feel much better about the heater hose than the blue voodoo coupler. I don't trust something that slides around and spins freely to seal up. Total cost to repair was $5. Would be a little more if you replace the 2 gaskets too (probably smart to do that). It's definitely doable without pulling the turbo though.
 

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