[sbuck]

Alright I have disconnected my EGR Connection and my truck runs great. When I reinstalled it the truck started running bad again. So I disconnected it again and it runs great again. Now I have seen the ford doctor page on how to clean it but I can not get that son of a b***** out of the motor. It spins freely but will not pop out of the motor. Any comments PLEASE Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif

 

[OMCUSNR]

Turn it so the ears are free, and use either a couple of small roll bars (nail pullers), or attach a loop of stiff wire through the holes and use a broom handle to lever it out.

 

[darsey715]

[ QUOTE ]
Turn it so the ears are free, and use either a couple of small roll bars (nail pullers), or attach a loop of stiff wire through the holes and use a broom handle to lever it out.

[/ QUOTE ]
your neighbors might look at you funny but hey, you gotta do what you gotta do. lol

 

[jimmy]

Better yet, since broom handles are fragile, just lay across engine, run the wire that is looped through 'ears' of the EGR valve around behind your butt and then use your butt muscles to lift it out. It may take several repeated lifting motions to get it free.

(I'm kidding but can you imagine what the neighbors would think if they saw that???)



On a serious note: lift valve and spray WD-40 or equivalent and then push valve down, lift a bit and push down again. Do this a few times and the gunk will displaced and it will pull out.

 

[twinturbo550]

[ QUOTE ]
Better yet, since broom handles are fragile, just lay across engine, run the wire that is looped through 'ears' of the EGR valve around behind your butt and then use your butt muscles to lift it out. It may take several repeated lifting motions to get it free.

(I'm kidding but can you imagine what the neighbors would think if they saw that???)



On a serious note: lift valve and spray WD-40 or equivalent and then push valve down, lift a bit and push down again. Do this a few times and the gunk will displaced and it will pull out.

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks, Jimmy! That's a good idea.

 

[GregH]

After the valve is out, you might consider starting the engine and take it to wide open throttle for about 15 seconds to blow the carbon from the EGR cooler and valve area.

 

[robhilts]

[ QUOTE ]
After the valve is out, you might consider starting the engine and take it to wide open throttle for about 15 seconds to blow the carbon from the EGR cooler and valve area.

[/ QUOTE ]

Doesn't removing the EGR Valve or even just disconnecting it throw some system error messages on the computer?

 

[TXGooseneck]

How often should this be done? Or is it strictly a measure to clean out a blocked EGR?

 

[ta152h0]

You are kidding, right ?

 

[darsey715]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
After the valve is out, you might consider starting the engine and take it to wide open throttle for about 15 seconds to blow the carbon from the EGR cooler and valve area.

[/ QUOTE ]

Doesn't removing the EGR Valve or even just disconnecting it throw some system error messages on the computer?

[/ QUOTE ]
I don't know if you can actually remove it from the engine but if you disconnect it will set a cel on some trucks. most def all california trucks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/vomit.gif lol

 

[GregH]

I do it every time I have one out. Doesn't hurt a thing.

Who cares if it sets a code? Just disconnect the batteries to clear any codes after the vehicle is reassembled...

 

[darsey715]

[ QUOTE ]
I do it every time I have one out. Doesn't hurt a thing.

Who cares if it sets a code? Just disconnect the batteries to clear any codes after the vehicle is reassembled...

[/ QUOTE ]
because if something else is wrong with your truck you won't know...Doesn't disconnecting the batteries clear the kam everytime you do it?

 

[GrampyJim]

Nice thought, Greg... hadn't even occured to me. No worse than having the engine swallow some of the crud that escapes (though some might pretend that doesn't happen). I'll try that on my next EGR job....

 

[GrampyJim]

If something else is wrong with your truck, the code will return.... That we are working on the EGR valve would indicate that we have already scanned codes and are actively addressing them.

When we diagnose a system that is this complex, we must treat the codes we retrieve very carefully.... One concern left unattended has the possibility of generating a list of DTCs as long as your arm... So we must look at "the big picture"....

When faced with a plethora of codes, it is usually wise to jot the DTCs down, clear them and then road test the unit to see what comes back first. If everyone did this, we might not see some of the multiplicity some owners discuss after a dealer visit....

TDS can be a bit of a different kettle of fish.... often, owners wont scan for codes until after a lot of wasted effort hasn't fixed anything. And, by that time, the best bet is to clear codes and drive it before any diagnosis is done.... because codes may be created along the way....

If it was as easy as "pull a code - change a part" guys like Greg and Doc and Barry and Grampy would have been in line at the soup kitchen a long, long time ago.

 

[william_04_X]

[ QUOTE ]

If it was as easy as "pull a code - change a part" guys like Greg and Doc and Barry and Grampy would have been in line at the soup kitchen a long, long time ago.

[/ QUOTE ]

there are lots of techs that work this way and they aren't eating at soup kitchens..there are enough systemic problems with earlier 6.0's to keep even the bad techs thriving..

my truck has turned into a full time part time job for my local dealer.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gif

 

[ta152h0]

the odd commentary here is removal of the EGR, and running the motor, exposes a good size hole at 25 psi, to the atmosphere and I fail to understand how the intake manifold ( under boost pressure ) can maintain enough pressure to properly feed the cilinder on the intake stroke.in my opinion the motor might run but that is it, no possibility of extracting work.

 

[sbuck]

[ QUOTE ]
After the valve is out, you might consider starting the engine and take it to wide open throttle for about 15 seconds to blow the carbon from the EGR cooler and valve area.

[/ QUOTE ]

When I did this my truck wouldn't respond it would just sputter and blow a s*** load of smoke out of the exaust and just a little bit of crap came out of the motor. It smelt like my old ford tractors exaust. The valve was really gunked up. Thanks for everyone advise.

 

[GregH]

You're not doing any work with the engine, you're just moving air through the system.

Crank it up, and hold your foot to the floor. The engine will buck and smoke and run like crap - but the tach will continue to climb.

Once it hits redline, hold your foot to the floor for another 10 or 15 seconds. Then lift your foot, shut the engine off, and install the valve.

 

[GrampyJim]

Is this because the truck is bad or??????? It is one thing to fix a concern... it can be quite another to fix the root cause....

 

[GrampyJim]

Two things... first, this engine doesn't have a hope in [email protected] of developing 25 PSI in the service bay. Boost is basically a "demand" kind of thing.... If the system is capable and the load high enough.... it will make boost. Free running in the shop.... you'd be lucky to see 3 or 4 PSI.

Second, it would take a special kind of...... a special kind of.... someone on cheap drugs to try to work a motor with a big intake leak.

Even after this many years, there are still things that we are learning about this motor and its management system... in fact, it is rare for the "learning" to ever stop since aging systems can deliver new concerns and indications.