Alittle history- May 2008 - was hooking up my RV to leave campsite, truck started fine. Turn truck off for final hook up. Went to leave truck would not turn over. CPS replaced on scene- no help - towed to dealer - Alternator bad replaced back on the road. Oct 2009 two new batteries put in as the old ones which were not that old gave out - would not turn engine over. Nov 2010 - truck would not crank over - put in two new batteries - fires right up. the batteries had water in them no dry cells, nothing i can figure drawing current that would drain the batteries even if small drain batteries should charge while driving. Getting stumped on why batteries are only lasting about a year. Any ideas, Thanks Greg
GregN
WHat shape are you battery cables in ? are all connections / grounds clean and tight ? Also since you now have a new alternator you should measure the voltage at idle ..it should be around 13.5-14.5 V. You starter could be on it's way out as well as well ...causing a hard start
The newer batteries suck. I hate buying things from WallMart, but they give e three year unconditional replacement. Every two years I go get new ones.
this can be checked with a 10 amp dc meter very quickly.[/QUOTE]
Hey Guys ,if I can jump in here.My truck has the same Exact thing going on ,Truck sits a lot Dead batteries in 3 years.(AC Delco's).Fried starter last time.
Hey EX,
What is the procedure for checking any alien voltage draw. I have a volt meter. Alt. looks good at idle
What do you think? WallyWorld:thinkerg: here I come.
Hey Guys ,if I can jump in here.My truck has the same Exact thing going on ,Truck sits a lot Dead batteries in 3 years.(AC Delco's).Fried starter last time.
Hey EX,
What is the procedure for checking any alien voltage draw. I have a volt meter. Alt. looks good at idle
What do you think? WallyWorld:thinkerg: here I come.
See if your meter has 10 amp dc setup. Most newer ones do.
You disconnect both negative battery cables. Then you take tester set on 10 amp dc and probe the negative post on battery and other probe on negative cable. Any reading over 0.40 is too much. You now pull one fuse out at a time until the draw goes away and you found the circuit causing draw and now have to see if something is left on or shorted. A good charging alternator that has a bad diode can do same thing so if all fuses are out and still have a draw then unhook cable on alt.
You disconnect both negative battery cables. Then you take tester set on 10 amp dc and probe the negative post on battery and other probe on negative cable. Any reading over 0.40 is too much. You now pull one fuse out at a time until the draw goes away and you found the circuit causing draw and now have to see if something is left on or shorted. A good charging alternator that has a bad diode can do same thing so if all fuses are out and still have a draw then unhook cable on alt.
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