[TIM K]

Sorry to post this here. I have it in general ? with 57 views and no replies.

Anyone, any thoughts.

Out of the blue, I have this electial problem. I was driving home the other night and put my left blinker on for a turn...my interior dome light starts flashing with the blinker...also the message center says " Drivers door ajar". This doesn't happen with the right turn signal...so I get home and the power mirrors won't fold in... the power windows only buzz and don't move go down, both driver and passenger window... All this happens with the parking or headlights on.... with the headlights off ... none of this happens with the exception that the windows still do not go down...just buzz....

I have to say W T F :bangin:

 

[ChargersFaninCO]

Alternator is not able to keep up and your battery(s) are discharging faster than they can charge to make up the difference in electrical load when your headlights are on? Just a guess, but it's a pretty good one as I've seen it before. Alternator is still putting out, so it's not making the idiot light come on yet.

 

[wp6529]

http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f54/electrical-weirdness-280482/#post2054840

 

[ChargersFaninCO]

http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f54/electrical-weirdness-280482/#post2054840

Did it fix the other guys?

 

[wp6529]

Did it fix the other guys?

It was the same guy posting in another section, I just linked my response in the other section. I haven't seen a response yet.

 

[ChargersFaninCO]

Ahhhh.....

 

[TIM K]

Unfortunately this was not the problem.

I located the grounds that you referred to. They are between the fuse box and the door opening. Quite easy to get to actually.

Unfortunately this looked like new, no corrosion and was tight. I loosened and retightened anyway. I removed and cleaned the frame to body ground, checked the trailer light receptical and re-checked all of the obvious things.

The alternator appears to be charging normally. There are no signs that would indicate the problem was from it. The batteries are basically new. The powerwindows should function properly regardless if the engine is running.

I guess the dealer is next...Arrrgh

 

[TIM K]

Thought I'd bump this to the top as a last ditch effort.

I'm afraid to take it to the dealer, because they would put the 11B23 flash in it. From what I've read, I certainly don't want it. And it sounds like they put it in, even if you don't want it.

 

[senix]

Thought I'd bump this to the top as a last ditch effort.

I'm afraid to take it to the dealer, because they would put the 11B23 flash in it. From what I've read, I certainly don't want it. And it sounds like they put it in, even if you don't want it.

I made an appt for this last wednesday for a free oil change and to have new dust cover seals on my front axle.

I then asked Cory from ford cust svc to call them and tell them to not do the flash.

Bottom line, I don't have the 11b23 yet, but got my stuff done and no bill.

 

[wp6529]

Thought I'd bump this to the top as a last ditch effort.

I'm afraid to take it to the dealer, because they would put the 11B23 flash in it. From what I've read, I certainly don't want it. And it sounds like they put it in, even if you don't want it.

The info I've heard about 11B23 is unclear. It seems that it does indeed improve error detection and as a result frequently immediately identifies previously undiagnosed problems. This is generally a good thing, but it appears to have resulted in a flood of warranty repairs. I'm waiting at this point to see how things settle out.

On your electrical problem, I don't think I have much to offer, if it were my truck I'd be doing systematic troubleshooting with a good DMM and possibly a scope, confirming the voltages and currents at the problem points and working back to isolate the source of the issue. It still sounds like a grounding issue based on the otherwise isolated components that are showing symptoms. If it's not a bad connection to the body, it could be a bad connector, a damaged wire, or similar.

 

[MPD56]

Since you’re not getting too many bites, just a few things to check, since this is happening to the left side, have you checked the wire harness by the parking brake. There is a common ground black/violet (bk-vt) wire that goes inside the driver’s door for the door ajar, mirror lights and windows. Since the windows are buzzing (moaning) I suspect you’re getting low voltage at the window motor and the same ground wire in the driver’s door is the main ground for all the windows. Since a SJB doesn’t control the windows, I’d troubleshoot the driver’s master window control and motor first? I don’t have very good wiring diagrams, but some of those circuits are fed from different fuses and you can try pulling one fuse at a time and see what happens. Also do you have an after market remote start or alarm, they could’ve splices into those wire on the left side.

If your truck is still under warranty, get them to fix it the electrical problem. As far as the PCM update, I’d tell them first that you don’t want it done right now and if they won’t listen, don’t bring it in. I had mine done and not sure what I think of it, in a couple of weeks I’m taking my 12K trailer for it’s first outing and now what I have read, I don’t know if I should take it for a trial run before I’m packed up with the family?

 

[senix]

Since you’re not getting too many bites, just a few things to check, since this is happening to the left side, have you checked the wire harness by the parking brake. There is a common ground black/violet (bk-vt) wire that goes inside the driver’s door for the door ajar, mirror lights and windows. Since the windows are buzzing (moaning) I suspect you’re getting low voltage at the window motor and the same ground wire in the driver’s door is the main ground for all the windows. Since a SJB doesn’t control the windows, I’d troubleshoot the driver’s master window control and motor first? I don’t have very good wiring diagrams, but some of those circuits are fed from different fuses and you can try pulling one fuse at a time and see what happens. Also do you have an after market remote start or alarm, they could’ve splices into those wire on the left side.

If your truck is still under warranty, get them to fix it the electrical problem. As far as the PCM update, I’d tell them first that you don’t want it done right now and if they won’t listen, don’t bring it in. I had mine done and not sure what I think of it, in a couple of weeks I’m taking my 12K trailer for it’s first outing and now what I have read, I don’t know if I should take it for a trial run before I’m packed up with the family?

Based upon what I am hear, I did not get the flash. I would also certainly go for a test run up a hill or two that will make the motor get up to 220F and see what it does.

 

[buckeyefan]

I was flashed at my last oil change a week ago.
Just got back from a 500 mile RT pull in the hills of Kentucky.
No problems what so ever.

I averaged 9.9 MPG for the trip with an 8500 Lb load @ 65-70 MPH.
The week before the flash, I made the same run and got 16.7 MPG without a load at 70-75 MPH.

Fingers still crossed with the long-term impact of the flash.

 

[TIM K]

Thanks MPD56 :thumbsup: That's great info.. If I can get home from work at a decent time I might have a chance to do it before the weekend... I will keep you updated.