[rawpower]

I just completed rebuilding engine. Would it be wise to start the engine outside of the truck with the turbo off just to make sure it runs? Should the engine, for any reason, not start?

I checked the oil pump, looked brand new. IP has 120K on it, now turned up. Injectors and injector lines are brand new. Removed mech. fuel pump and converted to elec. by the tank. Oil cooler is original, with new seals. Water pump ais original. New T-stat. Faulty valves were replaced. New return lines and T's. New bearings. And of course, the reason hte engine was pulled: all 8 were resleeved.

Sound good?

 

[Freighttrain]

if you have a way to secure the thing to the floor then go for it.But do not fire it up like you would a gasser.These engines torque over so much that if you don't have it chained,bolted,welded,or Glued to a very heavy secure plateform,your engine will end up on its lid or worse....end up on top of you!

 

[rawpower]

Yeah, I figured that. Its on a stand right now, so Id have to figure something else out. Other thing is, what about radiator fluid? Is it bad to run it empty for one minute or less?

Edit: and to shut it off I assume I just cover the intake with my hand or something, correct?

 

[tim94f250]

Rob,
As long as you're sure that your bearing clearances are good, I'd put it in the truck before starting. The machine shop that did your liners, did they turn your crankshaft? Did they supply you with the correct bearings? I know money is always a consideration, but I would replace the water pump if at all possible. It may have been fine before you disassembled it, but it may piss all over the place when you put it back in, due to the seal drying out.

 

[huskyhauler]

Dang, wish you were local, i have a lot full of REVIVA 7.3l-6.9L engine stands. seems they dont want to pay the shipping back on them, just want you to junk them. and knowing me, i hate to throw away good steel. if you wanted to pay the shipping, you are welcome to have one or all of them. i pick the motors up at the freight office in Pheonix, and drive 120+ miles to the shop. in all these years, i have yet to tie one down, or have one flip over.. the stand in probably in the area of 100-150lbs..

 

[Fred Hemer]

Im' with Tim slam it in the truck and get on with it!

 

[rawpower]

Alright, thats what Ill do. Can the engine be installed with the cross-over exhaust pipe installed? Starter?

edit: what is the autozone part number for a replacement pump? or should I get it from Ford?

 

[icanfixall]

New pumps are about $65.00 at Nappa... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif

 

[analog]

[ QUOTE ]
Alright, thats what Ill do. Can the engine be installed with the cross-over exhaust pipe installed? Starter?

[/ QUOTE ]

Rob, I just put mine in, the turbo was mounted, but it wouldn't go in with even the downpipe on. I highly doubt you would get it in with the exhaust crossover on. As far as the starter, I left mine off, so I don't know. But, it seems it is tucked up out of the way enough to not pose a problem.

Of course, if you've taken the front clip off, and don't have to drop it in from the top, that changes everything.

 

[Freighttrain]

You got any pictures of these stands?I might be interested in 1 or 2.....

 

[jdkline]

It's common practice to replace the water pump at the time of a rebuild, I think you siad you replaced teh t-stat but if you didn't do it! These things just become such a huge PITA to reach once the engine is in the truck. Bar the engine over by hand(so it can't start FSS disconnecte of course) if it has resistance yet bars over freely that should mean you ahve good compression yet nothing internally is binding. It is said that you should NEVER start an engine without a water pump and fluid to cool it down....not even for a minute. If it were mine I'd also crank it over at least by hand a few times unti I had built up oil pressure before initial startup. Why put heavy initial wear on those new bearings? Also rememebr to break this thing in as you would a new engine(cause for all intents and purposes that's what it is!) Good luck, you sure have worked hard on it hope it all works out good for ya.

 

[icanfixall]

When you have it in the truck and running put it to work. What I mean is don't baby it. Put a load on it and take it for a drive. This is the best way to seat the rings. Work it like its meant to be used. If you drive it like a car the rings will take forever to seat and will build up material that keeps them from seating. Just ask Fred. He knows how to break in these motors. Just don't go out and overload it and try to run up Pikes Peak. Watch the temps and run it like a truck hauling a load. How do you think Freightliner and Peterbuilt operate their new trucks. They sure don't baby them. They put them to work earning a living. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif

 

[rawpower]

Sorry, just got my comp back.

The engine is in, but the tranny-to-engine stids wont line up, and the crossmember bolt holes wont line up with the mount holes. I lift hte engine, they are lined up and everything. lower it slowy, rapidly, guided, unguided, you name it- it jumps to the drivers side, off about an inch or inch and a half to the side.

Any Ideas?

I replaced the T-stat, and then just went ahead and did the water pump after I found out they were only $51.00 at autozone...didnt turn in my core either. Which reminds me of another problem. I tried all 7 fan clutch wrenches that autozone and Oreilly had, none of which fit. Anyone have a Napa, autzone, or O'rielly part number for ours?