[BlueForester]

02 PSD well maintained with modest modes and upgrades has 180k miles. My truck up until several months ago has always fired up at the turn of the key. Now it seems to be turning over slower and taking 4+ seconds or more to crank. Sometimes I let off and have to try again. Once cranked and warmed up or driven it will start normal like it always has. Ford batteries are about 2 years old both around 12.3 V and alternator checks out. Ohmed out the glow plugs which were all just a little lower than range I looked up. Also voltage tested the White Stancor? glow plug relay I put in several years ago and it was real close to expected specs. I went ahead and replaced glow plugs and wire harness. Seems to run a little better and starting slightly improved. Ordered another White relay and installed but did not help.

Not getting any codes other than air intake heater, which I removed, and an over boost, because I cannot drop into passing gear to causally pass without SES light coming on. Guess due to turbo, pedestal, up pipes, intake, exhaust, air filter, SC tuner, etc. upgrades. Runs great and purrs at idle. I'm not a diesel mechanic but I really like working on things and have enjoyed working on the upgrades and maintaining this truck. But not starting like it should is killing me.

I'm thinking IPR issues? Any suggestions on what direction I should go?

Blue

 

[klhansen]

12.3V on the batteries is low. A fully charged battery after resting a bit should have around 12.7V. A two year old battery isn't "new" anymore. Also check your charging voltage. It should be at least 13.5V.

Have you checked battery voltage while cranking? You might also check out the starter, along with all the connections feeding it (and the grounds as well).

Before condemning the IPR, you should get a PSD capable scan tool on it and check ICP and IPR duty cycle. It is possible that you might have leaks in the HP oil system, but they usually get worse as the engine oil warms up.

 

[Graupp]

I'm with KL...
For some reason these 7.3's just seem to eat batteries...
Sam's Club replaced mine free of charge under warranty every 2-3 years for 13 years..
I did not spend a dime on batteries from 2002 to 2015,
when I finally upgraded and paid the difference to get some AGM batteries..
It's been 2 years on the AGM's with a 3 year warranty, so it's to early to tell if they were worth the extra money

 

[turbodave]

i just went through this issue. Caused wierd problems, and my batteries are new, but kept getting drawn down during cranking. Even got some weird codes due to electrical system draw down. All my issues were the direct result of a failing starter. Got a new starter, all problems cleared up and truck starts like new.

 

[BlueForester]

Thanks guys for the tips. Starter has been on my mind. But I've been thinking since it fires right up once warmed up to operating temp it will start up normally. I have maintained good battery connections and recently re-cleaned and protected since I disconnected during the glow plug and relay install. I have not checked starter connection though. I've considered checking starting voltage. I going to go ahead and check these out. I guess I have not hit those items hard yet as I'm thinking if it was an electrical issue it would have the starting issue all the time.

Another thing that is also noticeable since this started. Is after 4-5 seconds turning over when when it finally fires up it sounds like, it sounds like for lack of better words all cylinders fire at once? Like engine is trying to catch up? I do not know how to describe but it sounds rough. I kind of wince and think ouch that hurts. Again only when cold. Thus, based on what little I have learned since working on the 7.3, I was thinking the oil pressure in the injectors are losing pressure when sitting for periods of time thus having to re-build pressure up again to get injectors to trigger. I have a work truck I use during the week and only drive PSD occasionally if needed at all during the week. On weekends I drive to the lake or hunting club and it sits most of the weekend as I usually drive my Gator around.

I'm going to check these electrical items out and give a report back.

I've been wanting a good scanning tool but thus far have not needed one or been able to justify one, from you know, the wife. Looks like I may be able to now. What is a good one to invest in? I've read a lot in the forums about the EA??

Thanks again!

Blue

 

[turbodave]

Thanks guys for the tips. Starter has been on my mind. But I've been thinking since it fires right up once warmed up to operating temp it will start up normally. I have maintained good battery connections and recently re-cleaned and protected since I disconnected during the glow plug and relay install. I have not checked starter connection though. I've considered checking starting voltage. I going to go ahead and check these out. I guess I have not hit those items hard yet as I'm thinking if it was an electrical issue it would have the starting issue all the time.





Thanks again!

Blue

Everything you describe is exactly the way mine acted, which is why it took me so long to accept the mechanics evaluation of bad starter.

 

[BlueForester]

Thanks Turbodave, that's good info to know. I will definitely give it look.

Blue

 

[Mongus]

My F550 was not starting like it used to either. I did and do all the maintenance myself and enjoy doing it !

I put Odyssey batteries in it and it helped. Then I put a Mean Green starter in ----- DAM !!!! That truck starts like a gas motor does now ! The gear reduction is AWESOME !!! Big cash, but well worth it.

Did all this 3 years ago now and that trucks fires right up like better than new .

 

[DonWarkentin]

I think that you should install a set of odyssey extreme batteries to see if that will solve your problems. I have them in my truck and they are working great.

 

[DENNY]

When the truck starts cranking slow the first thing I check is alternator output when running. You can burn out a diode and it will not charge properly nor will it throw a light. If the batterys are newer I have also had three starters that have started to have a heavy draw and cause problems. Pop the caps and check fluid level. Fill with distilled water and put on overnight charge. If they hold the charge, look real hard at the starter, I have had the test good at NAPA but that was the issue after I replaced both alternator and batterys. For the OP. Check fluid level in battery, charge overnight. If you still have problem get them load tested or new starter.

 

[Brandonpdx]

You've probably got a starter motor on the way out, which will also kill the batteries if it is drawing too much power. Check out the Denso starter if you never want to worry about it again. Mine is getting weak too and I'm going to try that one.