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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 01 f350 dually 4x4 with a 7.3L automatic tranny in it bought it a couple weeks ago and every now and then it would not start unless you messed with the shifter. Now it will not do anything when you turn the key but if I jump the solenoid under the hood with the key on it starts right up and runs fine I have power to all the dash when the key is on. Any ideals on this problem before I take it back to the dealer and they just start throwing parts at it and racking me up a huge bill. Lol
 

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The neutral safety switch is incorporated in the transmission range sensor on the driver's side of the transmission. This is likely your culprit, especially since messing with the shifter was helpful as it went out. You should be aboe to replace it at home. You can get the part at any auto parts store or RockAuto online.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The neutral safety switch is incorporated in the transmission range sensor on the driver's side of the transmission. This is likely your culprit, especially since messing with the shifter was helpful as it went out. You should be aboe to replace it at home. You can get the part at any auto parts store or RockAuto online.

I did some checking and that's what i think it is too because i can start the truck by jumping the solenoid Auto zone has it for $38.99 going to get it and put it on
thanks for the info will post if that's what it is
 

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yep....what RT said....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
nope not it. the relays are clicking when you turn the key but nothing. replaced the neutral safety switch with a new one but nothing there is no power to the ignition wire at the fender mounted solenoid so don't know
 

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try putting power to the solenoid. use a temp piece of wire to the battery. Sounds like you need a new solenoid. Just went through it with our 97. you could jump it with a screw driver but nothing with the key. It did click though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
if i put power to the ignition post on the solenoid it will start. no power coming out of the ignition wire.
 

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When you replaced the transmission safety switch did you make sure it was aligned properly, or just bolt it on?

This may be bad information since I have never taken a look at the automatic transmission park/neutral safety switch on a 4R100, but most of those kind of automatic transmission switches have to be properly aligned so that the switch "knows" the transmission is in park or neutral. I used to have an old F-150 with a C6 3-speed auto and the switch had a small hole in the side that you put a paper clip or other thin round metal object in and it had to line up with another hole in the switch. The switch mounting bolts were slotted to allow the switch to be rotated as needed until the switch was lined up. If the switch isn't properly aligned, the engine wouldn't start since the starting circuit thinks the transmission is not in park or neutral. I would imagine the 4R100 is similar (but I don't know for sure). To verify the switch, you could disconnect the wiring harness and use an ohmmeter to check continuity through the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I lined it up with the marks on it.it also has a remote starter on it and it will not start from it either I have disabled that to make sure that was not the problem. in the diagram it shows two fusible links going to the solenoid.
 

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Check the ignition switch output when you turn the key to start. It should be the Red/Light Blue wire coming out of the Ignition switch wiring connector. Or you could test at Fuse #20 under the dash (see below). The ignition switch has 4 separate switches in it, so it's entirely possible to get run power but not start power thru it.

The ignition switch is the first thing in line from the fuse box. It gets fed from Fuse #20 (50A) under the hood. Then back thru the under-dash fuse box to Fuse #20 (15A). Then it goes thru a Jumper block where the clutch pedal position switch would be if it were a manual tranny truck. Then thru the transmission range switch and finally to the starter relay on the fender.

Those fusible links coming from the starter relay are battery feed to the underhood fuse box. If they were burnt out, you wouldn't have power to much of anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
got it! it was the power wire from the ignition to the solenoid under the dash the bone head that installed the remote starter cut the wire instead of taping into it and the remote starter circuit went bad and would not put power back to the solenoid. thanks for all the help the wire diagrams were awesome.
 

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Good deal :thumbsup:

Don't you just hate bonehead installers? Sometimes you can go into the bathroom and give them what for in the mirror.
 

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on my truck there is a 15 amp fuse that I took out to run a kill switch. Check your fuses, mine did the same thing till I found the fuse was not making contact, so I fixed that and no more problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
who ever put it in the truck before i bought it did it. i just disabled the starter part till i find the short on the remote side. then I'll do it the right way lol
 

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I'll have to check my ignition switch on my 97 F350 as I think it is bad.

Anyone have a diagram/photo of where the ignition switch is located?
Rockdog97, your ignition switch should be located just in front of the dash along the left side of the steering column, (I'm assuming it's in the same location as the 99 & up trucks).

I saw your other posts in various forums about your issues. The best thing for you to do would be to post your problem (with a full run-down) in the correct forum (which would be the Power Strokes 1994-1997 General forum.

Posting in this one, 1999-2007 Ford Super Duties, 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain, or 7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes), may get you information that's not correct for your truck.
 

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Rockdog97, your ignition switch should be located just in front of the dash along the left side of the steering column, (I'm assuming it's in the same location as the 99 & up trucks).

I saw your other posts in various forums about your issues. The best thing for you to do would be to post your problem (with a full run-down) in the correct forum (which would be the Power Strokes 1994-1997 General forum.

Posting in this one, 1999-2007 Ford Super Duties, 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain, or 7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes), may get you information that's not correct for your truck.
Thanks.. Yeah, I just realized I was posting in the wrong forum! Thanks for the information.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
if his 97 is like mine then its a power stroke 7.3 turbo.
 

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if his 97 is like mine then its a power stroke 7.3 turbo.
Yes, the engines are very similar, with only small differences. But there are quite a few differences in other like wiring, component locations (the IDM comes to mind), fuel system, etc.

That's why there's multiple forums for the various year ranges. It's always best to post in the forum that matches your vehicle.
 
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