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Discussion Starter #1
Years ago I installed an exhaust brake on my 97 OBS.

Im now driving a 02 f550 automatic and would like to repeat the process. I have searched but am unable to find the same ebpv brake setup.

It worked as follows

Three position switch on /off/on with one green and one red LED light

In the green light position the ebpv would engage when letting off the go pedal. Then open when getting back on the accelerator.

In the red position the ebpv would engage and the torque convertor would lock up until turned off

Can I repeat this in my 02?

If not I would settle for one switch that locks the torque convertor and engages the ebpv

thanks for the help
 

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You can get tuning to do the same thing.
On a 550, I would just get a real exhaust brake.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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In order to use an exhaust brake to it’s full extend you need to upgrade the valve springs.

They only hold 75 psi brand new.

BD and banks make an exhaust brake.
 

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I used the BD Diesel exhaust brake. In my opinion its the best, and you can adjust it in seconds with the provided regulator to hold as much as you like. My fifth wheel is 26000 lbs, and it holds fantastic on the massive hills we have here in the BC Rockies. It was the only brake with an anti stall feature so you can use it like the stock restriction valve to help heat up the motor. ( since it replaces that valve with its own heavily beefed up valve). I did quite a bit of research on these and settled on this one. Pac Brake makes what would have been my next choice. Banks did not even come close to making the cut.
 

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I run the Banks Brake. Love it!

The Banks "Power Elbow" was already installed on the truck along with their 4" down-pipe, so the BanksBrake setup bolted right in, in place of the "Power Elbow". The EBPV had previously been removed along with the pedestal (long time ago).

The Banks design is nice; very well designed, with a slightly larger bore where the butterfly valve is, so flow restriction is minimized when the brake is off. It's substantially larger than the stock EBPV...

Unfortunately, the electronics module that comes with the brake SUCKED. So I designed and assembled my own electronics, which interface the cruise control, IVS, CPP switch, and my GearVendors U/O-drive.

Works great!
 

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How do you like your gear vendors?

Was it worth it?
Well, yes and no...

I do like it. It has made a great difference when towing my toyhauler.

The ZF 6-speed in these trucks has a fairly big jump in ratios between 3rd and 4th (I call "low" 1st, and "OD" 6th). When towing heavy, it's always a b!tch, 'cause you have to wind it up pretty high in 3rd to have enough RPM's in 4th, to stay in the torque band. So being able to split the gears there really makes a world of difference. In actuality, you can split the 2, 3 and 4 shifts, so you end up with 9 (or even 10) forward gears. Also, you can double-overdrive (6th-over) and really drop the R's. Having had my truck in excess of 100mph a time-or-two (not towing, obviously), it was cool to drop the engine speed down to 24-2500 at ~120... :grin2:

On the downside (which I didn't know 'till I bought it), I can't use my engine brake when the GearVendors is in high (OD). "Normal deceleration" is okay in high (according to the GV manual), but they say NOT to use any engine brake, except in the direct (low/under-drive) gear. It has to do with the way the planetary gearset is designed (helically-cut gears); it wants to "pull" into gear tighter under load, but wants to push out of gear under heavy decell. SOOO, no splitting gears (like 4th under to 3rd over) when descending a grade.
But, I've grown accustomed to it now, and it's not that big-a-deal. Still a GREAT asset for towing.

The other thing is, it can shift a bit harshly, so it takes some finesse, and a feel for working the accel pedal and/or clutch. But it's a short learning curve. Once you learn the feel, it works good.

I should mention: putting a GV in requires MAJOR driveline alteration. The front shaft [of the two-piece rear drive shaft] is lengthened (actually, a new shaft is fabricated) and the rear shaft is shortened, and the carrier bearing is relocated rearward (it comes with all the necessary bracketry required). The driveline shop I used locally, is well-versed in the modifications required for the GV install, so it all worked well. I did have a slight drive-line issue (vibration on takeoff) after it first went in. However, correcting the driveline angles, by lowering the carrier bearing, solved the problem.

I also found (while troubleshooting the vibration) that I had a TON of axle-wrap occurring, particularly when towing (I'm sure this was happening before the GV went in, but I never really thought about it). So I threw on a set of FabTech traction bars, and that eliminated that issue COMPLETELY! The traction "feels" so much better now... like the road is right there; not as "spongy" as before. It's hard to describe until you feel the difference, before and after. I highly recommend traction bars to anyone that tows.

Lastly, I didn't use ANY of the electronics that came with the GV. I designed my own circuits and installed them instead (to prevent operation in 4x4, reverse gear, etc.). My take was that the electronic module that they supply is more suited to an automatic trans., not the manual. I also used an old-school, two-speed red "push-pull" switch on the my stick, instead of the little funky rocker switch they provide.

Sorry for the book-length post. I like to tell the whole story...:grin2:


~Al
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That sounds bad ass. I have been wanting to put one in for some time now but they don't recommend it for towing.

My flatbed trailer weighs 9100 empty and although I haven't weighed it Im sure my F550 weighs all of 10k or more. Figure CC 4wd steel flatbed. All that puts me close to their limit empty.

It would be awesome to be able to split the gears in my 4r100 especially considering my 4 88 gears
 

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That sounds bad ass. I have been wanting to put one in for some time now but they don't recommend it for towing.
My flatbed trailer weighs 9100 empty and although I haven't weighed it Im sure my F550 weighs all of 10k or more. Figure CC 4wd steel flatbed. All that puts me close to their limit empty.
It would be awesome to be able to split the gears in my 4r100 especially considering my 4 88 gears
Who doesn't recommend it for towing, GearVendors? I thought the GV O/U-drive had a pretty high load/torque rating...?

And, yes your 550 probably does weigh-in close to 10k. My F350 weighs 8000 empty, and it's a "stock" 4x4-SRW-CC with a pickup box.
 

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I think what you are wanting is the unit that was made by SPDiesel. Tapped into the ebv valve and gas pedals along with a 3 pos switch so no brake, brake and lock TC or brake only.
 
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