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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I NOTICED A FLUTTER IN MY EXHAUST WHEN I GOT ON THE THROTTLE, SO I GOT HOME AND CHECKED IT OUT THE ONLY PLACE I COULD FIND IT COMING FROM WAS MY PASSENGER SIDE MANIFOLD ITS PRETTY RUSTED OUT, UR A VIRGINIA BOY YOU KNOW HOW MUCH SALT IS USED IN THE WINTER TIMES AROUND THESE AREAS AND THATS THE ONLY THING I COULD FIGURE BECAUSE ITS IN PRETTY BAD SHAPE I DIDNT SEE ANY NOTICIBLE HOLES IN THE MANIFOLD MABEY ITS JUST A GASKET BUT I WAS THINKING ABOUT JUST BREAKING DOWN AND REPLACING THE WHOLE UNIT WITH NEW MANIFOLD AND NEW GASKET
 

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Yeah, that salt! Mine was on the driver side. Didn't know it was two broken bolts, the two rear. After trying, literally everything I could think of, I had to use a saw-zaw to cut the bolts off close to the head. All bolts except the two came right out with vise grips and a little heat. I had to drill the broken ones out using a drill fixture I made. It bolts on the good holes and allows you to drill straight in. Then, unless you buy a new manifold, you will have to drill/endmill out the old bolts. This is what I did, then reused it with gasket and STAINLESS STEEL bolts. I couldn't afford a new one at the time. It seems typical that the bolts are seized in the manifold on these trucks, mine at around 156K. Truck drove fine no problems, didn't start it for about three weeks and went to start and a leak. I reused the up pipes. I can send you the fixture if you pay freight. hope you will not need it.
 

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I just bought some from drivewire.com, passenger side $164 and drivers side $109
 

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That sounds good. I think it's a good idea to drill and tap the driver side for a future PYRO gauge now.
 

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Can the manifolds be changed with the engine in the truck? Looks really tight in there. How big of a job is this? After looking at the prices on the new trucks, I will most likely keep mine, and am looking at some preventative stuff to do now before winter and before it leaves me stranded.
 

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Yes - the manifolds can be changed with the engine in the truck..

The hardest part is removal of the bolts.

It helps to remove the plastic fender liner.

If you broke the rear bolts, the manifold will need to be resurfaced. It is also advised to use a metal gasket (I don't have the part number here - but you can call and international dealer.) The trucks did not have a gasket from the factory.

You might as well service the up-pipes and donuts since the up-pipes will likely slide right out. Easier to pull the turbo for this which means have some turbo o-rings on hand.

Start soaking the manifold bolts and up-pipe to manifold flange bolts in PB Blaster today...

Finally - when I found that an air wrench really helps in the removal of the manifold bolts.
 

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There is probably a thread somewhere. Support front end, remove tire(s) shocks, shock mount(s) inner fenders -which means air box etc.- and have means to cut the bolts. DO NOT waste time trying to get the bolts to turn if they won't back out with air. They are FROZE in manifold, and most likely not the head. No amount of PB blaster or heat will move them if they are like mine were. Even with new manifolds I think the gasket the way to go. They are bolted together at factory without them but unless you are really lucky, I would think there would be some deviation from flatness. Again, I wound up using a saw-zaw with long blades. An assistant to watch that you don't cut where you should not is also RECOMMENDED! Several Ford dealer service people I talked to all said the same thing. They remove the HEAD and manifold together, either send to a machine shop or replace.
 
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