[roland13]

Hi All
I have a 2001 F650 (26' Box Truck) with the 7.3 engine. I have been changing the oil every 3k-3.5k. Should I be going longer between oil changes or keeping the same schedule. The truck usually gets run 18-20 hours a day for 4-5 days then has a break for a month or 2. Also this truck has a governor that will not let it past 2800 RPM (60 miles an hour) Will I get better fuel mileage if I have it removed? Current fuel mileage is 6.5-8 MPG.

Thanks
Eaon

 

[txgp17]

If you want to know if you can go longer on oil changes, I recommend you wait till the next time you change your oil and take an oil sample and have it analyzed. I use Blackstone Labs. They sell a vacuum pump for $30 that allows you to take a sample without changing the oil. They can tell you if it's safe to run the oil longer.

Also, there are some higher quality filters out there than the standard Motorcraft FL-1995, which isn't to say the OEM Motorcraft filter is bad, just not the greatest. Fleetguard makes some units designed for larger trucks that filter better, as does Donaldson. I use a Donaldson ELF7405. Here's some details on it. They can be had online for less than $30 each.

Also, the surest way to increase oil change intervals is by adding a bypass filter, but doing so without oil analysis is a gamble. The 7.3L uses a secondary oil pump that drives the fuel injectors. As a result, poor quality oil can contribute to a poorly running 7.3L more than other diesels.

Removing the "governor" would not help you any. The governor isn't governing vehicle speed, but engine speed, which in turn limits the vehicle speed when you're in your highest gear. Allowing the engine to turn faster can result in a broken valve-train, or a rod through the side of the block.

It sounds like you don't have an overdrive transmission. Do you know what transmission model you have? Is it a manual or an automatic?

If it's a manual, you may come out better finding a transmission with overdrive to improve mileage, and that would come from lowering engine speed, not increasing vehicle speed.

If the truck is loaded pretty heavy, then lowering engine speed may increase exhaust temperatures, which could be a bad thing if it goes too high. I'm not familiar with the 7.3L in F-650's, but I guess it has a larger air cleaner, larger intercooler, and a less restrictive exhaust than a F-250.

My volunteer Rescue Squad has a 1995 International with a 7.3L, but it's labeled the T444E, and it too stops at about 61 MPH. It has a substantial intercooler, puts the Ford F-250's to shame. It has an Allison AT545 transmission, which does not have overdrive. Their latest truck, is a Ford F-750, with a Cummins ISB-360, mated to an Allison 3000-EVS 5-speed transmission. That truck tops out at about 70 MPH, because it has overdrive.

 

[roland13]

Wow, Thanks for all the info. I ordered 4 of those Oil filters through Ryder and Emailed Blackstone for one of there kits. How about fuel filters, When should I be changing them and what are the best ones to use?

I do have the Auto Tranny with no overdrive, And the truck tops out at 61 MPH. Unless I am going down hill with a full load. Then it can get up to 75. :lol:

Eaon

 

[txgp17]

How about fuel filters, When should I be changing them and what are the best ones to use?

The best one to use in an "OEM setup" is one that comes in a Motorcraft box.

Many people have added filters to their trucks on the vacuum side of the fuel pump. There are several write ups on the web. Lots of companies make a fuel filter housing using 1"-14 threads. Donaldson has some really nice filters. Read about their filter bases here. The P562261 filter head and a P551025 drainable filter (rated at 4 microns absolute) should protect your fuel system nicely, and shouldn't require changing but every 10-15,000 on your F-650, maybe even longer.

I used a short filter because ground clearance was an issue for me. The height of your F-650 should allow you to run taller filters.

Here is a post where I commented on it in another thread.

The OEM 7.3L filter is 7 microns, but I don't know if that's nominal or absolute. Absolute @ 7 is better than nominal @ 7.

I don't think the OEM filter system is good enough. I added a Racor 645 with a R45S element. The R45S element is the finest one Racor offers for that filter head.

Donaldson also makes some great filters. The P551025 is a drainable fuel filter/water separator, that's rated at 4 microns absolute. Most fuel filters us a 1"-14 thread, so the mounting heads can be found pretty easily. Judging by the amount of water you had, a drainable filter is the only way to go.

There are lots and lots of write ups online of how people installed pre-pump filters on Power Strokes. Here's my install:
‪Ford Power Stroke Diesel Auxiliary Fuel Filter - 7.3 Racor 645 with R45S element T444E powerstroke‬‏ - YouTube

This clip shows how I retrofitted a Racor 645 series fuel filter to the vacuum side of my trucks fuel system. I cut the rubber line that connects the metal line to the pump. I installed a barb and routed the fuel line back to where the filter is mounted, which is inside the frame rail just in front of the OEM fuel tank. The I routed it back the fuel pump.

On the filtered side, there will be more restriction, so I used double hose clamps on those barbs. The element is a Racor R45S, which is rated to 2 microns. For comparison, the OEM Motorcraft filter is only rated to 7 microns. An R45T would be rated for 10, and a R45P for 30 microns. You can also use R60 (S, T or P) or R90 (S, T, or P) series filters on this housing. They're larger and allow more flow or longer intervals between changes.

The 645 has a opaque fuel bowl so I can see if any crud or water is accumulating in the filter. It also has a manual drain so I can get rid of it. And there is a valve on each line to close to prevent fuel loss when I'm changing filters. I can also use the valves as an anti-theft device if I'm so inclined.

I used grade 8 bolts without drilling into my frame, aluminum for the mounting bracket, I used all stainless steel hose clamps, and all the fittings were brass or chrome plated. The hose I used was 3/8" inch SAE 30R9 fuel injection hose, which ain't cheap. Part Number: NBH H206 from NAPA. If you want to know why, read this: http://www.gates.com/common/downloads/files/Gates/brochure/TechTipsForm.pdf

Also, here are some pictures. The first two show how I spiced into the fuel line. The black tape is Gorilla Tape used to prevent abrasion from movement of the hose clamps.



The third is how close the valves are to the body.


The forth is the gunk that it's caught after just 2,000 miles.

 

[txgp17]

One more note, I just found two drainable fuel filter/water separators rated at 3 microns absolute, the Donaldson P553203 and P553207. The second on is 2 inches taller. This has to be the finest filtration I've ever found in a drainable separator.

 

[roland13]

Thanks for all the info, Received my Oil filters the other day. Holy crap are these things huge. Found them at Ryder online. Worked out to $107 for 4.

Anyone know where to buy OEM Ford fuel filters cheap?


The exterior fuel filter set up looks like the way to go.

 

[bobsherrie]

One of this sites sponsors, Performance Truck Products, has a great price on Raycor filters which are the same as the Ford filter. Raycor makes Ford's filters. Free shipping if you spend $50 I believe. That would be cheaper then Ryder.

 

[roland13]

Onto the next round of questions.

Can anyone recommend replacement shocks? I doubt it will ride any better but the ones in my truck look like the originals.

I want to flush the coolant out. What brand should I use, how much do I need? Coldest it gets around here is -30 celsius. The truck also has a factory coolant filter I will need to replace. Should I go with a factory one or will an aftermarket one be alright?

I also need an engine/oil heater. Truck is originally from California and does not have one.

Thanks Again
Eaon

 

[SmokeyWren]

Hi All
I have a 2001 F650 (26' Box Truck) with the 7.3 engine. I have been changing the oil every 3k-3.5k. Should I be going longer between oil changes or keeping the same schedule.

You are probably wasting money on oil changes. Use Blackstone oil analysis and go by the oil change interval (OCI) they recommend for your exact driving conditions as indicated by your used oil. When you send in your oil sample, add that you would like their recommendation for an OCI. On my '99.5 7.3L they usually recommended 5,500 miles, but one time they recommended 6,000 miles. And I had extremely severe duty conditions and constant towing, so considering your shorter legs in the axle ratio, I'll bet your OCI is at 4,500 to 5,000 miles.

Also this truck has a governor that will not let it past 2800 RPM (60 miles an hour) Will I get better fuel mileage if I have it removed? Current fuel mileage is 6.5-8 MPG.

Probably not. Your best MPG will probably be at around 2,000 RPM. At 2,800 RPM, you're spinning at the top of the horsepower curve. If you're not usually loaded really heavy, then your best bet for MPG is to change out the axle ratio for longer legs, then continue to cruise at 60 MPH. If your truck has 22.5" tires, then available ratios from the factory were 4.11, 4.33, 4.88, and 5.13. It sounds like you probably have 4.88 or 5.13. If you now have a 4.88 ratio, maybe go for a 4.33. That will result in 11 percent higher speed at 2,800 RPM, or around 67 MPH. Or if you cruise at 60 MPH, your RPM will be 11 percent lower, or around 2300 for better MPG.

I want to flush the coolant out. What brand should I use, how much do I need?

The F-650 probably has the same cooling system as the lesser PowerStroke trucks. If so it holds over 7 gallons, so you need 4 gallons of concentrate or 8 gallons of 50/50. I would buy 4 gallons of Motorcraft Premium Gold or Zerex G-05 concentrate and 20 gallons of distilled water, then flush it with the "profectionest" procedures in this link:

http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums...ill-methods-average-joe-perfectionest-215599/

That "gold" coolant doesn't normally need any added supplemental coolant additive (SCA).

The truck also has a factory coolant filter I will need to replace. Should I go with a factory one or will an aftermarket one be alright?

Any major brand of coolant filter will be just fine. Most brands come either plain or charged with SCA. If you change to the gold coolant, you want the plain version without SCA. I used the Wix # 24070.

I also need an engine/oil heater. Truck is originally from California and does not have one.

The OEM engine block heater works great. Any Ford dealer can sell you one, and it screws into the base of the oil filter. Good price is $43 from Tousley Ford Parts:
Tousley Ford Parts Depot

 

[roland13]

Alrighty, Had my oil analyzed. Blackstone stated it was good for 6k, So now I get to do less oil changes.

I am going to have to change the gears, Getting tired of doing 60 at 2800 RPM. Anyone have any idea what gears I would have currently? I have 19.5s and top out at 61 fully loaded or totally empty.

Also how many miles between Fuel filter changes?

Also planning on adding a sleeper, So I can stop renting motels when I cross the country. Any suggestions?

Eaon

 

[ryhed]

if you're gonna go 6k on oil changes, every second oil change would be a good maintenance point. Most recommend 15k for fuel filters. I would say 12k is fair enough especially if you have to stop at rinky dink fuel stations which do not move a lot of volume or unknown quality. Use motorcraft fuel filters for sure. I get mine from tousley, you may be able to get your ford dealer to match that price.