[Powerstroke2000]

I've been to two different Ford dealers and FOUR times to our local 'trailer repair' company, all telling me all is fine. I eventually changed out the OEM trailer controller, to find nothing has changed.
Next, on my fourth trip to the 'trailer repair' place, they came to the conclusion it must be the brakes on the trailer! Well, that was a $1,000.00 repair, as they changed all four drums, brakes, backing plates and bearings. In the end, I can now get the brakes to lock up..with the controller on 10. I drop it down a bit...and will focus on fine tuning...and hope things at least continue to work!
When I first bought my truck, this same trailer worked fine at 3.4 - 4 with the trailer loaded....why have things changed, all to find all these added costs to my truck & trailer needed for our safety?
Makes me wonder how many just hook things up, head out and not worry about if brakes are really working or not?

 

[cancer66]

I had a similar problem with my 2001, could not figure it out and dealt with it for over two years. Then I started checking volts and found I was only getting about 9 volts at the plug! Traced my problem all the way to the wire on the Alternator, it was almost completely corroded off!:surprise:Changed the plug and bingo, trailer breaks worked awesome! Good luck, Kent.

 

[fireman17]

2010 IBC Not Working Properly

Has anyone been able to get a straight answer on these IBC's or better yet had any luck with Ford fixing it? My 2010 F350 DRW IBC works with the manual button but not the pedal unless you really slam on the brakes. A year ago they replaced the transducer on the MC which did nothing. I pull a 24ft Alum cattle trailer all over the US and this thing sucks. My brakes on the trailer rusted up and started sticking because of lack of use, the pads hardly had any wear on them. Replaced all the brakes (complete backer plate kits) and they work great with the manual lever but nothing with the pedal until 3 bars are showing on the display. The problem is the pedal is 3/4 way to floor to get to those 3 bars. That is no good when you want to come to a controlled gradual stop or are traveling down a long mountain grade, in either of these conditions the trailer is pushing me and I have to use the manual lever to get trailer brake assistance. Took it back to ford today with the trailer and showed them and tech agrees but there are no codes and service manager says there is nothing can do because the computer says its working as intended. What BS, the tech agrees its not right but the computer rules the day, unbelievable. He also checked 2 switches with the computer, the first that controls the brake lights it activated with just a touch of the pedal, but the other is a pressure switch and you have to push pedal nearly to floor to get that one to activate but tech is not sure how much pedal travel is normal to make that switch work. So service tech said there is nothing they can do as truck is under extended premium care warranty and ford wont approve just replacing parts when there are no codes.

This is worse truck I have ever owned and I've been a ford guy for 32 years. I've owned a 1976 F-250, 1988 & 1989 F-350 SRW and I still have a 2001 F-250 7.3PS. All of those trucks were awesome but I bought this dually new to truck my son to cattle shows all over the country and its been nothing but one HUGE POS!! It has 50,000 miles and its had the following: rear main seal at 10K, both front calipers locked up at different times, one time I had to be towed and have someone pick my trailer up off the side of the road, fuel coolant pump replaced, windshield leak, parking brake issue, rocker arm bolts came loose and damaged several rockers. So much for buying a new truck to have a reliable one, my 01 PS is twice the truck this thing is, tires, brakes, fluids is all its ever needed. When the warranty runs out on this thing I'm Done and maybe not just with the truck but with ford. I paid a lot of $$ for this truck and it SUCKS!! Can't believe I'm saying this but I think I see a Duramax in my future.

 

[titus geesey]

ibc on a2008 ford f250 quit working. my question is how easy is it to replace it with a aftermarket brake controller

 

[wingnut60]

Should be pretty simple as your truck should have the factory connector for a brake controller under the dash--maybe near the steering column. Gray rectangle female connector, I think. But you may have to have Ford disable the IBC.
Not sure I am right, tho....

 

[Harley888]

Thanks for responding, klassic. Let's get this pushed up the chain to your regional customer service manager; they'll work with your dealership to get this resolved. To make that happen, PM me your full name, best daytime phone number, VIN, current mileage, and servicing dealership. I'll take it from there. :thumbsup:

Crystal

Thanks for responding, klassic. Let's get this pushed up the chain to your regional customer service manager; they'll work with your dealership to get this resolved. To make that happen, PM me your full name, best daytime phone number, VIN, current mileage, and servicing dealership. I'll take it from there.

Crystal
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I would love to reach Crystal who replied to this post. I am having the same problem and same results from the dealer. I would presume (which I shouldn't) that Ford may have looked into this further and have some answers by now. The dealers don't care unless they can make some money on this. This needs to go above the dealer. I hope that my post may reach Crystal and she would contact me. Bart (303) 589-8844.

 

[Phil G.]

I would suggest you send a PM to FordService but as a new user, I think you need about 10 or 20 posts before you can do that.

I would suggest you start a new thread here in the towing forum and titled "Ford Service- Please help" and post your request of what you need there. I can't guarantee you'll get their attraction but a fresh up to date thread may help.

 

[Campin' MO]

I own a 2010 F250 and I have the same problem. I can engage the trailer brakes with the manual switches on the integrated trailer brake controller but not with the brake pedal. I end up getting hit by my trailer. Has anyone come up with a solution yet?

 

[divenride]

I have a 2015 F350 SRW and I have the same issues.

 

[divenride]

Someone on here or another forum posted that they used jumper cables to get a better ground between the trailer and the tow vehicle. I tried it and it solved my problem. The only conclusion I can came up with is that most of us use the poly-pad (no grease) on the pin hitch which could reduces the ground, jmo. At 10mph I used the manual controller, it barely stopped the rig. Then I hooked up jumper cables between the pin hitch and the hitch in the truck, at 10mph it locked up the brakes using the manual controller.

 

[jimmy]

The ground wire in the trier plug should be your ground and not the ball or hitch as applies.
The problem is much more likely to be issues with the plug. I do this test: turn on park lights so the lights on trailer are lit. Apply trailer brakes through some means. (This could be wedging a piece of plastic ware into the slot by the manual lever after you've slid it over to hold lever over or have second person hold it) With the electric loads in place use a volt meter and touch the trailer tongue and some bare metal spot on truck and read the voltage. 0.3V would be maximum. If it is higher then read this while pushing on your trailer plug into socket on truck to see if the voltage comes down. If it does the plug is the issue. If it is good then jack up trailer on one side and with the same brake apply/lights on roll the tires to see if brakes are actually on. Then repeat with foot brake applied and manual lever released. If manual yes and foot brake hard apply no then you have controller issues.
If you have direct bolt balls the ground will be OK but with B&W turnover or the factory prep of the 11 and later you have issues with the loose ball or hitch frame not keeping a good electrical contact from to truck to ball that causes truck to trailer loss.
I posted here (I think) that if jumper cables can be used to see if the issue is ground. Jumper cables are not a reliable longer term fix.

I have several trucks and trailers and the trailers get plugged/unplugged a lot.
I have a regular routine of taking small blade screwdriver and prying the truck socket contacts open. The contacts are a metal strip rolled over much like a rolled into a fist finger on your hand. The object is to open the contact much like relaxing your fisted finger. Not too much so try to view it so you can see that you are expanding the "finger" contact about 1/16 inch, maybe 1/8. This will increase contact tension on the metal blade in the trailer side plug end. If you plug/unplug a lot then you will have to replace the truck side socket on occasion. The factory ones are available if you search from several sources and have a plug that is latched that allows easy change. I use WD-40 or similar often as a cleaner. When I tried grease it collects too much stuff and makes it worse.
I was so tired of non or bad working brakes, brake disconnect message w/ beeps. and blinking running lights.

 

[wpetko]

Hey, guys!
If anyone is still following this thread I've learned a little troubleshooting trick for this problem. The weak trailer braking could possibly be the result of a poor ground between the truck & trailer. This could be especially true if you tow a 5th wheel like me & you use one of those white teflon (or plastic?) lube disks on your hitch plate. Often the ground wire to the trailer plug could be inadequate as well.
To troubleshoot this problem simply get a set of jumper cables, attach one end (either red or black) to a good ground on the trailer & the other end of the same cable to a good ground on your truck (I like to use the 5th wheel hitch). If your weak trailer brake problem goes away then your problem is a weak or non-existent ground.

 

[Mgore78]

Hi Powerstroke2000,

Let me lend a hand. PM me your name, phone number, VIN, mileage, and dealer info.

Ashley

2011 f350. 70k miles. Just spent $800 on brakes for my gooseneck. Brought it home still same challenge. Just hooked to my flatbed and….. yep no brakes. Seems it my be the truck! Dash shows 10, but seems it Lies.