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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Fan clutch was never changed. Van has 152k. How often do they fail? Has anyone installed after-market electric fan instead?
 

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There's a fan clutch test procedure that involves blocking the radiator and running the engine revved up (about 2000 rpm if I remember right) until it gets to 220 degrees to see if the clutch actually engages the fan all the way. I believe Pete has it in his file section.

Others here have said that electric fans proved to be inadequate to cool the engine in extreme conditions. I shopped around and found a good deal on a new fan clutch on rock auto, it was under $100 on sale.
 

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I can attest to the fact that NOTHING cools like the factory set-up. I have yanked 18,000 lbs up many steep grades and the engine has gotten to 235 degrees with the fan screaming, but NEVER overheated.
Pete (CDNSARGUY) has the fan test in his gallery. I would only replace it if it fails the test. My '86 F250 that I bought new had the factory original one when I donated the truck in 2008.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yea I've read that if you pull something it's better to have oem. I think for the regular driving it's ok if it's not in FL maybe. Did you notice any changes in power and mpg savings with electric?
 

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If the clutch is working correctly you're not going to save any of either.
 

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I can attest to the fact that NOTHING cools like the factory set-up.
For sure! Those are big blades and there's lots of 'em. As far as fan clutch life, I installed a Napa replacement in an RV park in '93 about 200,000 miles ago and it's still fine. Turns out there was nothing wrong with my original, I'd just installed my ATS turbo and pulling my horse trailer over 1000 miles in about 100 degree summer heat my engine was running a bit hotter than I liked on the long grades. Thought the fan clutch might not be fully locking but turned out the real fix was to convert my front bumper to the later air-hole factory turbo style for additional air through the radiator. Made a big difference. Still got my original clutch for when the Napa finally gives up. Comparing the two at the time it looked like Ford's and Napa's were supplied by the same vender.
 

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Is teh coil spring on the front what actually ingages the clutch? does this need to be replaced? Pulled my fan off the other day and it looks pretty rusted, just got the truck and have not driven it 15 miles, to many issues to put on the road... So fixing those first.
 

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Is teh coil spring on the front what actually ingages the clutch? does this need to be replaced? Pulled my fan off the other day and it looks pretty rusted, just got the truck and have not driven it 15 miles, to many issues to put on the road... So fixing those first.
No..there is a "chamber" filled with a liquid that reacts to the heat from the radiator. Hard to explain so lets see if I got it right.

The liquid expands or "Moves" to the outer edges ( cengtrifigul force) as it gets hot and engages the inner and outer portions of the fan clutch. This action causes the fan to spin at the same RPM's as the pulley. As the coolant temp comes down the liquid looses it's "ability " to hold the two parts together and the fan slows down again and causes less drag on the engine.
 

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OK makes sense, So what is the coil on the front of the fan clutch for, it looks like an old time coil thermometer
 

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OK makes sense, So what is the coil on the front of the fan clutch for, it looks like an old time coil thermometer
I have no idea.
 

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That's a bimetallic spring that tightens (or loosens?) with temp change and when it does so it allows the silicone fluid to lock or unlock the clutch. It's important to not let it get crudded up with grease and dirt.
 

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That's a bimetallic spring that tightens (or loosens?) with temp change and when it does so it allows the silicone fluid to lock or unlock the clutch. It's important to not let it get crudded up with grease and dirt.
That must be the design of that particular fan clutch...Seen plenty over the years that DON'T have that.
 
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