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Discussion Starter #1
If the ficm is bad, will you still get clicking for the injectors and relay when turning key on.
Truck would shut off when on highway and hot. Cool down and restarts.
Put new ficm on and cranked but with only 40.5 volts. let it idle a while (30min) the put in reverse and died. Now, 0 volts from ficm and no injector/relay clicking.
any suggestions, thanks.
 

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Keep in mind that an internally shorted injector or injector harness can do he same thing. The first thing I might doo is look at the FICM voltage parameters (you need a scan tool capable of that) and if you cannot access the PIDS because the module is not powered up then testing the power and ground circuits is a good first step. A bad relay is always possible but very rare, I may have seen one or two over the years. Keep in mind that you could have gotten a bad FICM as well. Never rule that out.
 

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Keep in mind that an internally shorted injector or injector harness can do he same thing. The first thing I might doo is look at the FICM voltage parameters (you need a scan tool capable of that) and if you cannot access the PIDS because the module is not powered up then testing the power and ground circuits is a good first step. A bad relay is always possible but very rare, I may have seen one or two over the years. Keep in mind that you could have gotten a bad FICM as well. Never rule that out.

I'm thinking bad New FICM too. On the first one, I drove and when quit like a rock, immediately turned key, no start, jumped out and pored a gallon jug of water directly on FICM, jumped back in (45seconds) cranked right up. Drove back home, died in drive jumped back out did the same thing. Cranked up immediately. If dont cool the ficm down, it takes 10-15 minutes and it will start. SO, figured Ficm (2yr old) problem. Put new Ficm on, cranked up, checked Scan Gauge 2 FMP volts only 40.5. Idled 30 minutes, decided to drive, put in reverse immediately died. Volts now 0.00, no start. Getting no clicking under hood for injectors or relay. Checked volts at harnes at ficm, getting 12 volts on the various pins and getting grounds. plugs look good and getting them snapped in. Just trying to figure out if ficm. Obviously the ficm place claiming i have to buy another they don't think their new one bad, that i have another problem. Just weird that the old at least ran till hot, this one was already low voltage now none. thank you for your thoughts.
 

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What "FICM place" did you buy it at?
 

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What "FICM place" did you buy it at?

The one already on it was replaced at a shop. It is still under warranty, so i removed it and took it to their distrubutor here in Memphis, Total Diesel Care. It was a GBremanufacturing Ficm that had a 24 month warranty. It was purchases 10/2018 so 22 months old. Since it was bought thru Total Diesel, they quit using GBreman and started building their own in 2019 with a 12 month warranty. So, they sent it back to GB and sold me one of theirs and will credit me when they get credited from GBreman. A confusing mess in addition to a broke down truck. thanks,
 

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Hopefully you disconnect the batteries before removing and installing the FICM ...... just to be on the safe side.

Years ago, I loaned a spare FICM out to a friend to use as a troubleshooting tool. It came back FRIED. Who knows what he did, but he claimed he didn't do anything. That was back when the average owner had to expose the "screws" to check voltage.

I am now more understanding of places that get electronic components brought back for warranty.

Not saying it was your fault, but things happen. Also, I hate the idea of pouring water on a computer - even though it is supposed to take some SMALL exposure to moisture. You can mess up more than the FICM if water gets into the PCM connector!!
 
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