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Discussion Starter #1
This is my first post on this site, but I must say I would be out mucho cash if it weren't for all of the great information provided here.

I was having cold start problems in early December and they got progressivly worse. I purchased a block heater cord and installed which helped for a short time. Batteries were turning over slower, so I replaced them as well. However this past Saturday I went out to start the truck and it would just turn over and never really try to start, if it did it would only run for a couple of seconds and die. Even when it warmed to to 50 degrees it wouldn't start. I finally managed to get it started with Starting Fluid ( I know... bad) and when it warmed up it ran normally. When it was warm it would start normally.

I try to do things myself as often as I can, and my technical abilities allow, so I decided to to the FICM soldering posted on this site. I am no solderer, and if you saw the FICM once complete you would know what I mean, but I managed to get it soldered without bridging and circuits. I placed the FICM back on the truck last night and it started up like it was brand new. I was so happy I couldn't believe it.

Now the real test was this morning. Didn't plugin the block heater last night and it got down to about 33'. Went outside this morning, let the GP's cycle once and it started right up. Woo Hoo!!! Even Happier now.

I just want to thank all of you guys that provide such useful information and take the time to document it for the rest of us. It saved me a trip to the dealership on this one. :thumbsup:
 

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I'm very glad that the repair fixed your problem. It also makes me wonder if the rest of the people that had to have their FICM replaced at a dealer after having them tested bad could have been repaired also, either by the dealer or owners. I only hope your repair lasts for a long time. Let us know if it continues to start well.
 

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Dealer mechanics can't resolder the connections for some many reasons even if they were good at soldering themselves.


I wonder how many fixes might be just due to disconnecting and reconnecting the FICM. We have no information if making a better contact would help issues.
 

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wow not only is the 6.0 problematic we also have to deal with ficm issues wires shaffing wires laying on bolts wearing into then shorting something out .i hope ford engineers read this site and try to prevent newer trucks from these problems
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I wonder how many fixes might be just due to disconnecting and reconnecting the FICM. We have no information if making a better contact would help issues.

Before completely removing the FICM I actually tried the unplug/plug and experienced the same issue. None of the wires are chafed and all looked to be in good condition. Unfortunately the Microsoft fix didn't work here (reboot ;-))

I think placing this module on top of the engine was a design flaw. With all of the heat and vibration it's subject to it's no wonder it fails so frequently. The same could be said for the GPCM, bad placement.
 

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Question answered, good to know.

There are many commercial diesel truck engines that have their electronics up on the motor, although some use the recirculating fluids to help cool them.
 

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Also ficm potential problem...tuner at PHP said (info on site) fmc said numerous ficm failures were linked to the inductive flash for stiction (not orig. f.i. buzz after KO) & an updated version will available.

Point is..for those with the orig. inductive flash & sometime later ficm died, maybe thats one reason why? Mine still has the 1st orig. flash (stiction) with f.i. buzz after shutdown. No real start issue, just came along with other updates I got 11/06. I havent checked out v. on ficm so far.
 

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Question for your FICM issue. Were you getting a P0611 code during the cold start issue? Reason I ask... I'm getting the P0611 FICM PERF code, but no symptoms. I'm a little reluctant to pull the module out and re-solder w/out having any issues. After you fixed it, did the code go away?

Any advice would be great guys!!
 

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P0611 is the code that is usually associated with a failed or failing FICM. If I were you, I would find out what kind of voltage it is putting out.
 

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Sure enough... I took the FICM out, and found a bad resistor. it says DALE R0075 on it. The center of it is burnt almost straight through. Is this something I can replace?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Question for your FICM issue. Were you getting a P0611 code during the cold start issue? Reason I ask... I'm getting the P0611 FICM PERF code, but no symptoms. I'm a little reluctant to pull the module out and re-solder w/out having any issues. After you fixed it, did the code go away?

Any advice would be great guys!!
I received no codes and when I tested the voltage on the FICM is was 48.2 with the key on, but as soon as I hit the started the voltage dropped significantly.
 

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04 6.0 in Montana, early this winter she would not start below 40 degrees. I didnt have the cash to fix it so I let her sit. Sounded like the glow plugs were not buzzing as usual, I was saving up to replace the GP controller. I read the post on FICM soldering and thought I would give it a try before tearing into the GP system. Wish I took a voltage reading first but once I took out the air intake and coolant tank I kept going. I re-soldered the the places indicated on the forum and the four resistors (tiny) on the front of the card. Put it all back together and POW 48v. I now hear the GP's buzzing again (strange ?). Temps here have been in the teens and she fires up great. Thanks to all who contributed......
 

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Anybody got a link to the FICM test and fix procedure writeup...? I'm searching bit can't seem to find it yet...
 

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Thanks, DrQuad... I actually ended up finding this same doc on the FTE website, but thanks anyway...
 

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So I pulled the FICM cover Saturday and it turns out I have the 7 pin FICM version. Even though my truck is an '04, it has a leftover '03 Engine and '03 components... Can you say "leftover junk" ... Anyway, other than the pin to check for the 48 volts with KOEO, is the procedure the same as far as soldering, etc...? From what I've read, it looks like I'll need to check the far left pin on the row of 4 for voltage...
 

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The 7 pin fix and the 4 pin fix are the same for the power supply board.

The curent resistors and power FET transistors are in basically the same place.

7 PIN read voltage on the pin close to the turbo, the 4 pin is the pin close to the fender
 
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