The Diesel Stop banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does the fifth wheel hitch from the factory have any adjustments? I am thinking will have to adjust my trailer hitch.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
18,824 Posts
Yes, the height of the hitch can be adjusted up or down a couple of inches. And the kingpin box on the trailer can also be adjusted up or down a couple of inches. You want to adjust the hitch and/or the pin box to achieve a level trailer when connected up to the tow vehicle, while also having at least 6 inches clearance between the top of the pickup bed and the bottom of the trailer where it overhangs the bed.

The hitch is a Reese Elite Series 25k hitch. Here is a link to the instructions (PDF file) for hooking up the trailer to the tow vehicle.

http://www.reeseproducts.com/content/downloads/installation/N30143.pdf

Look on page 11 at figure 22 and you'll see:

7. The height of the hitch and the pin box should be adjusted so the trailer is approximately level as it is towed. Allow approximately 6 inches clearance between the top of the pickup walls and the underside of the front of the trailer for pitch and roll of the trailer. (See Fig. 22). For off road use allow more clearance between pickup walls and trailer.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I guess I should have thought first, I knew about the height adjustment capability, I guess what needed to know was how to do it. I got no directions from Ford on hitch adjustments....thanks for the info I will look at the hyperlink.

Thanks a lot
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
18,824 Posts
If Ford completely assembled your hitch, then those instructions say to skip to step 7. But the adjustments are in step 2. So if Ford didn't put it together to match your needs, you have to take the hitch apart and begin with step 2 to adjust the height of the hitch:

Loosely assemble the four anchor bushings, less the anchor tee pins and handles, to the base arches using the 1” nuts (Figure 5). Loosely assemble the two base arches to the center section using 5/8-11 hex head bolts and lock washers (Figure 6).

NOTE A : Hole positions used in assembly will need to be chosen based on the head height measurements taken previously. Choose calculated height closest to one of the following height dimensions: 14-1/2”(top holes), 15-3/4”(2nd holes down), 17”(3rd holes down), ...
 

· Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
I have the factory hitch.
Came fully assembled, and the height was exactly what I needed.

Matched what I had on my Y2K.....

I'm happy with most things, but hooking up / releasing, the locking system is very senstitive. It keeps wanting to LOCK.... Trips too easily.

I park in my final location, unlock the jaw(s), get in truck, put it into drive, and the vibration caused by placing it in drive (a little body jerk, nothing out of normal), will trip the locking system.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
276 Posts
I have the factory hitch.
Came fully assembled, and the height was exactly what I needed.

Matched what I had on my Y2K.....

I'm happy with most things, but hooking up / releasing, the locking system is very senstitive. It keeps wanting to LOCK.... Trips too easily.

I park in my final location, unlock the jaw(s), get in truck, put it into drive, and the vibration caused by placing it in drive (a little body jerk, nothing out of normal), will trip the locking system.
I've had that happen only once but hasn't done it again since the first time out.
If I'm on fairly level ground I toss mine into neutral let off the brakes, which usually takes the stress off of the lock and then just hit the parking brake.
Pull the handle the handle, hop back in, put in D pop the E-brake and pull out. No "re-locking" so far for no reason.
18k Reese Elite hitch.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
I've had that happen only once but hasn't done it again since the first time out.
If I'm on fairly level ground I toss mine into neutral let off the brakes, which usually takes the stress off of the lock and then just hit the parking brake.
Pull the handle the handle, hop back in, put in D pop the E-brake and pull out. No "re-locking" so far for no reason.
18k Reese Elite hitch.
That's an idea...
My hitch is the 26k (or 23k) unit for my dually (31000+ gvwr).

The more I use it, I understand it's behaviour, and can deal with it.

Thx
 

· Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
SmokeyWren, Thanks for the link!

I noticed a lot more play in my hitch this summer and I'll need to see if I can tighten the anchor bushing assembly in step 4 another 1/4 turn:

"Snug tight(no vertical play in anchor bushing assembly)all (4) 1” jam nuts inside base arches using a 1-1/2” box end wrench, then tighten each jam nut another 1/4 turn for proper torque requirement."

After being in the weather for two summers now, the puck in the bed is getting rusty, loosing paint and now allows the hitch to slide just enough to create a clunk on take off or in town braking with the electic brake on max gain.

I have similare issues with the lock being to sesitive and have had the wife hang on to it while I try not to drive over her toes... I'll use a rope next time.

Need to get me a cover that also holds the pin head in place while driving unhitched and keep it from swinging back and forth.

Thanks,
Eric
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top