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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A while ago I posted here that I actually was able to get my hands on a set of front springs from a 2004 super duty. It took me 5 years, but I finally have them installed. A few months ago my ball joints gave up the ghost so I thought that would be the perfect time to just do it all. I pull ed everything off and swapped out the springs (fun job by yourself) while waiting for the axle seals to show up. Now all is back together and back on the road. It is different to drive now, kind of what I expected, but man is it tough to keep on the road now. My wife drove it today for the first time and called me to tell me she might get pulled over for a DUI with the way this thing is driving. I had it aligned after all was done and found out also that I had torqued the upper ball joint too much. I had to pull the bushings out in order to get the torque correct. It did drive much easier after that, but still wanders so much. I am looking into the steering box to tighten it up a titch. Is there anything else I can do to get this to drive much straighter and feel more comfortable pulling the trailer? One more thing, I did get the lift out of the front as others have mentioned, but I have yet to swap the blocks out in the back. I have four inch blocks to replace the 2 inch blocks. I wondered if with the squatting a little, did that have anything to do with the way it handled this past week?

This is what I replaced. All ball joints, steering stabalizer, tie rods, steering link, axle seals, dust seals, front leaf springs.

Thanks so much all you guys. I remember one member responded to my post about the front springs saying the only thing I will regret by doing the swap is that I would wish I had done it earlier. True. I do like how it feels now. I just hope I can get it to drive in a much more comfortable manner.
 

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The springs wouldn't have done that, and before I started messing with the steering gear box, I'd figure out what changed it's handling. If the steering gear box needed adjusting, it would have needed it before the work you did.

I haven't had to do any of the things you did (I did do the springs several years ago), so I can't guess what may have caused it out of what you did, but if correcting the torque of the upper ball joints made a difference, I'd make sure I did the ball joints correctly. Then move on to the next obvious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
FamilyRide, it has wandered since the day I bought the vehicle. The steering box could have been adjusted before I did anything. I could have some of the joints too tight maybe. I fixed the ball joint torque issue. Tonight I am going to check the play in the steering and make minor adjustments to see if that will help at all. I was reading some more today and some said once I get the blocks changed out in the back and it levels it out, it will help. I can only try since I am wanting to change the rear blocks anyway.
 

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Search the massive database here for wandering cures. In my opinion, these rigs can only be made decently stable with replacement of the rear springs. I used Cary T's modified B Code approach, but there are a few other ways that I hear also work. I suggest using the shortest blocks in the rear to mimimize the lever effect that causes rear steer. (You get the ride height you want using the arch of the spring.) I used F250 blocks. Obviously play in all joints and the steering box need to be eliminated.

DOC
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update

Finally getting back on here and had forgotten I had posted this. I finally adjusted the steering box, little by little. It does now handle so much better. I still have a wanderer, but doesnt seem as bad. My arms dont get tired anymore trying to keep it on the road. I made the adjustment, but all I was towing was a cargo trailer. I have yet to put my travel trailer behind it to see any difference. Thanks for all the responses. I love my truck and this forum.
 
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