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Went to test my FIPL yesterday.


Here are the instructions I found here and elsewhere...


FIPL adjustment is critical to the life of this transmission. An incorrectly adjusted FIPL
can alter line pressure up to 15 psi. The easiest and quickest way to correctly adjust it is
with a scanner. You will also need the gauge block from Ford, which keeps the throttle
from opening all the way. The gauge block part # is T92T-7B200-AH or you can use any
thing that measures .515" thick.
CLARIFICATION NOTE: YOU DO NOT USE THE .515" GAUGE BLOCK
WHEN USING THE DVOM METHOD TO ADJUST THE TPS/FIPL. PLEASE
SEE ADDENDUM AT BOTTOM OF PAGE BEFORE STARTING ANY
PROCEDURE.
Correction
Check TPS/FIPL
Here's how
1. Hook DVOM black lead to battery negative cable.
2. Turn Key to on position (do not start engine).
3. Set meter to DC volts/ 0 to 40-volt scale.
Note
Leave 3-wire connector hooked up to TPS/FIPL sensor for test.

4. Probe black wire on 3-wire connector with red lead of meter. Must be less than .1
volts (that's 1/10 of a volt not l volt). Will probably read in milli-volts. This is the
ground wire. If more then .1 volts, ground is bad.
5. Now probe the orange wire. Must be close to 5 volts. This is reference voltage
sent from the controller. No voltage means an open wire between the sensor and
the controller. Low voltage means the wire is shorted to ground.
6. Check the green wire. It should be around 1 volt. Leave the red lead hooked up to
the wire and steadily open the throttle until it is wide open. You should see a
steady increase in voltage up to 4 to 4.5 volts, with no fluctuation. Be careful! If
you open the throttle to fast the DVOM will probably show 0 voltage or out of
limits. This is normal. If the voltage does not increase at all the TPS/FIPL is bad. If
it is below 1 volt and never gets to 4 volts, it might just need to be adjusted.
To Adjust FIPL if you don't have a scanner:
1. Loosen FIPL adjustment bolts.
2. Hook DVOM black lead to battery negative cable.
Note
Leave 3-wire connector hooked up to FIPL.
3. Turn key to on position (do not start engine).
4. Set DVOM to DC volts/ 0 to 40 volt scale.
5. Probe green wire (center wire) with red lead of meter.
6. Idle- 1.1 to 1.4 volts.
7. Wide open throttle- 4.1 to 4.5 volts.

Now, here's the reasons for the post...


First of all, I noticed everyone saying to have the engine warmed up... With the key in run, but the engine not running. Since we are talking about something that works according to the throttle position, and we want full throttle travel, I assumed that the reason for the instruction was to be sure the high idle solenoid that pushes on the throttle, was disengaged.


Rather than go through warming the enigine up, I just pulled the connector on that, so it would not push on the throttle arm.


Ok, on to the wiring... I just want to make sure I got this right.



The wires on mine are:
Top: white with a red stripe.
Middle: White.
Bottom: Black with a white stripe.


The bottom wire gives me a constant 5 volts. No matter what the throttle does.


The middle wire gives me just less than 2v, and goes up to just about 4v maximum.


The top wire gives me zero volts. No matter what.


I'm thinking I am getting somewhere close to the correct voltages... Just that the colors of my wires are not the same as I see in all the test instructions.



And I am not at all sure about the position of the wires.




I think I did it right, and got the desired results. Just not sure.
 

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It sounds like you did it right. Hard to tell without seeing it though
 
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