[stwose]

Greetings All
This is my first (of what will probably be many posts) and I am starting off with a bunch of questions.....
I bought this truck at an auction in Calgary for $1,000 CAD.
Seems like a good deal as it seems to be in reasonable shape but as one would expect with a $ 1K vehicle there are a few small issues.
Issue 1...it leaks diesel fuel (actually it pours) from what looks like the return lines from the injectors.
After only a minute or so with the engine running a small pool of Diesel accumulates on the tops of the rocker panels and drops can be seen forming on the undersides of the return lines that run between the injectors.....so I assume the return lines will need to be replaced.
Does anyone happen to have any idea what the I/D of the return hoses are?
The existing ones are quite "crunchy" and seem to be either 1/4" or 5/16" I/D.
I got some regular 5/16 (low pressure rubber) fuel line but it seems like a loose fit on the barbed connector for the fuel return on the fuel filter and on the connector on the return T on injector 8 ? ( front right injector).
As to replacing the return lines between the Tees on the injectors.
Is it possible to replace the small lines between the injectors without removing the high pressure injector lines from the injector pump and lifting the Tees off the injectors.
And....more to the last question...does anyone know if the O rings that seal the T's to the injector bodies are available as a separate service item from Ford or IH...or are they a part of a larger service kit for the Injectors.
Sorry for all the questions on a first post.

Sandy

 

[cdnsarguy]

Welcome to TDS and the basement.........

If the caps have a pointed barbed end for the hose they are 1/4 the flat ones are 5/16 a 92 should be. First I would get a new kit, because as soon as you disturb the orings under the caps there will be massuive leaking....soubds like you have it already.

I got my kit from a local Stanadyne dealer cost about $55 cdn then make them up.

Here is how to....
First disconnect injector cap nuts, "do not bend lines" but move them away enough to get the return line caps off as a complete set per side.
After removal of the complete return cap and lines sets, build new sets identical. To remove old orings use a dental or oring pick with a razor knife, do not mark the injector body. When installing orings use lots of grease and roll first one into top groove, then roll second over that to bottom groove. When installing the new lines and caps use grease inside the cap and on orings, place them on respective injectors and gently push straight down until it pops into place on the orings. Install the capline nuts 22ftlbs torque. There should be a small space between the return cap and line capnut when finished, any major leaks mean caps are not seated or orings are cut or line cap nut is not tight. I have done two sets lately and found bleeding 1-2 injectors at a time on opposite side the best, place fuel pedal to floor and fast idle and timing advance on, crank for 15 seconds, mine started after 4th injector was on line.
Note when cranking engine and bleeding there will only be a slight amount of fuel/bubbles seen, no major squirting gysers, that only happens with engine running at idle RPM.

 

[stwose]

Thanks for the warm welcome...
I was not exactly sure from your post what the Kit from Stanedyne (SP) consists of.
Is it the Caps, O rings and hoses.
Also...what sort of grease should be used inside the cap and on the O-rings?
And...do you happen to know what size the nuts are on the Injector lines.
I meant to take a measurement when I was at the truck today( it's parked about 45 minutes drive away on the other side of Calgary) but I forgot ...again.
I need to buy the correct size crow foot wrench.
From your post it sounds like you can GENTLY move the injector lines out of the way to remove the caps without having to remove the other end of the pipes at the IP...is this correct?
Sandy

 

[aceohearts]

Any good kits will contain the caps o-rings and hoses as well as the copper washers for the base of the injectors. It's usually refered to as an injector installion kit, or sometimes a return line kit. If you aren't removing the injectors, you won't need the copper washers. Put them in the toolbox and save them for a rainy day.

White lithium grease works well to lube and condition the o-rings, but a lot of guys also use vaseline.

If memory serves the caps are a 5/8's wrench.

And yes, you aren't even bending them, just holding them to the side one at a time just far enough to slide the cap off and back on.

 

[cdnsarguy]

Since your in Canada, I suggest the Stanadyne dealers but any reputable diesel shop should have the right kit by Dipaco (sp). Get a 5/8 line wrench that's the one that goes around the nut 2/3 way, you may want the 5/8 crowfoot for later on IP removals.

 

[stwose]

Thanks to both....
I have located the Stanadyne dealer in Calgary and I will chase down the Return line Kit.
Also thanks for the hint on the "Line Wrench" vs the "Crow foot"
I thought they were the same thing.

This truck is going to be a bit of an ongoing project.
The deck is sort of set up as a service truck with a large cupboard located behind each cab door and the rest is a large flat deck.
I have donated the deck to a friend who owns a paving company and I am going to try to graft on a standard long box.
This may take some doing as I am not sure the frame is the same as a F350 "Dually" from the same era.

I am trying to get the deck off so I can move the truck to my Garage so I can work in relative comfort....it was too tall to fit in the door with the deck attached.