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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My dilemma is I have a 02 f350 with 260K on the clock, It is upgraded with the banks power pack, and air brake. It runs like crap, very little throttle response, misses terribly at all speed ranges, and has cold start issues. I have replaced ICP, IPS with OEM. Have replaced the glow plugs and relay. The Banks upgrade was on the truck when purchased so I do not have a clue as to what it was like before, from what I have researched it should be performing much better. I am on the road driving all over and have a nagging fear that it is going to dump on me. The miss started a year ago and have taken it to dealer and had it scoped and was told all is well. Never acts up on that day, but it does it alot more than it used to. Some days it drives like a dream, but they are getting fewer. Trying to see if it would be worth it to start from scratch and change out of the Banks to something else of get a 08-10 and do the deletes. Thanks for advise and help in advance. Jim
 

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I had that problem and it was a crap CPS I got from Napa. Went to International and got the right one and fixed a lot of issues. Not sure it will cure yours but its a fairly cheap start....
 

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Fix it. You could rebuild your entire engine for less than what it would cost when the fuel pump blows on a 6.4 or 6.7. It's unlikely anything major. A scanner like AE would help narrow this down.
 

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My Dad was an old school diesel mechanic. His advice would be, If the body is in good shape, you can always repair or rebuild the mechanical parts for a lot less than a complete replacement. Just take the time and effort to do it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
been there done that

had it scanned at local ford dealer and was not acting up at the time and it scanned good. only code is for overboost due to the bigger wheel in turbo and an s&b intake, it thrown that code every time i get on it. As far as the cost of things go what will it be to take off all the banks crap and change out to something that will make it run right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My Dad was an old school diesel mechanic. His advice would be, If the body is in good shape, you can always repair or rebuild the mechanical parts for a lot less than a complete replacement. Just take the time and effort to do it right.

Im old school as well, but I have had this trouble for a year, and no results. Trying to see if I went to Ford and got all new sensors, PCM and everything what it would cost, My next try will be to drop the tank and check the pump and filter. Just frustrated and being on the road leaves me very little time on the weekends when im home.
 

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I'm not talking about scanning for codes. I'm talking set AE up to monitor all the parameters you can and hit record a drive until it acts up. Do you have any gauges? Any way to watch fuel pressure?

Throwing parts at it is NOT the answer.
 

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jandoe, how does your 2002 F-350 compare to your 2002 Excursion, as far as engine driveability?

Have you tried pulling the Banks Ottomind module, disconnecting the Banks Transcommand, inserting the by pass plug in the transmission harness that the Transcommand previously plugged into, and running the truck on the stock PCM calibration for a while?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
jandoe, how does your 2002 F-350 compare to your 2002 Excursion, as far as engine driveability?

Have you tried pulling the Banks Ottomind module, disconnecting the Banks Transcommand, inserting the by pass plug in the transmission harness that the Transcommand previously plugged into, and running the truck on the stock PCM calibration for a while?

The EX runs fantastic, 350k on it and it will outrun mine and just about everything on the road. Wife loves it for the power and gets 18mpgs for daily driving.
Have not tried doing anything with the Banks, thought about it but have never ventured into that end of it before. I am pretty good and mechanics but stayed away from the computer stuff, would like to try it. I rebuilt my 6.0 top end and it ran really good, if it hadnt been stolen i would still have it. My EX ran so good that I replaced the 6.0with the 7.3 with the banks setup thinking I would not have to touch it. To me it never has ran right. Thats why Im considering swapping it out with something else.
 

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The EX runs fantastic, 350k on it and it will outrun mine and just about everything on the road. Wife loves it for the power and gets 18mpgs for daily driving. My EX ran so good that I replaced the 6.0 with the 7.3 with the banks setup thinking I would not have to touch it. To me it never has ran right. Thats why Im considering swapping it out with something else.
Well, the logical step before tossing the baby (7.3L) out with the bath water (perhaps the Banks programming)... is to just drain the bath water out first. Who knows, the PCM could be infected with another program on top of, or even in lieu of, the Banks program.

People who modify their vehicles often subscribe to the mindset of "never enough", and are known to override Banks programs with other tunes, in the never ending quest for "more". Since you like the way your Excursion performs, it makes the most sense to bring your truck back to stock programming, and go from there.

Since the truck already had the Banks system on it when you bought it, I'm assuming it is used, and therefore, you most likely have no way of knowing the actual and factual history of the truck... so PCM could be infected with anyone's program. The first thing I would do is try and bring it back to the stock calibration.

Don't forget to remove the Transcommand module and restore the interrupted circuit with the bypass plug when you do this. Call Banks for another bypass plug if the originally supplied plug was not in the glove box.

The hard parts elements of the Banks Power Pack have less of an effect on driveability, and really serve to mitigate exhaust gas temps, so they can stay with a stock tune. The intercooler and ducting is a benefit. The mandrel bent stainless 3.5" downpipe, and Monster Exhaust is a benefit.

The only issue you may have is that the 1.0 air ratio Quick Turbo housing, combined with the Banks "high boost" compressor wheel. Banks used to have a catchier name for it, but the compressor wheel itself does not contribute to "higher boost"... it actually prevents turbo surge and stall at higher boost, so it is more compatible with higher boost. It achieves this compatibility by being less efficient pumping the air that is moving through it. In the same vein, the larger air ratio turbine housing is less efficient at converting exhaust expansion and flow into mechanical energy, but it's higher flow rate reduces EGTS that were increased from the higher fueling rate of the Ottomind programmer at higher RPM.

Both reductions in efficiencies are beneficial at mitigating the problems that arise from increasing the fueling beyond the stock calibration, which is what Banks Ottomind does (without creating smoke, unlike many other tuners). But without the Ottomind tune, the same reduction in efficiencies will be felt as a loss of power in the stock tune, compared to an unmolested turbo. Just keep this in mind when comparing to your Excursion.

By the way, what are your rear axle ratios to both the Excursion and your truck? And what are your tire sizes?
 

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Fix it!
There are 100 things that could be contributing to your issue and none of them are likely the physical components of the banks system...
Programming, cps or other sensor, injectors, and the list goes on...
As said above, I'd start with trying to get the programming back to stock or as close as possible. And then get AE or something similar that can read all the ford pid's and start watching everything as well as running all the function tests and we can help you determine the actual problem and get it fixed.
(On a side note, my brother just bought a new 2000 7.3 that has all the banks stuff on it so I'm following to learn more about the banks specific stuff so I know what to look for on his!)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Still learning myself. With my limited knowledge of the cause and effect of the banks system, all of the feedback I'm getting about it means I'm over my head. Will need everyone s help or find someone in the arkansas area that knows to help me out. 6 days a week I'm on the road and will not have the time to wrench it myself. So if anyone knows of a Ford aftermarket guy please let me know. I would like to keep it but can't have any down time with me, will have to leave it with someone to do the work.
 

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Have you considered talking to the people at Brian's Truck Shop in Lead Hill? They do much more than just transmissions.
 

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Find a shop that knows the 7.3. Not just any diesel shop will do. But stay away from the dealer if possible.
We will help you out as much as we can but unless you bring it to Texas I can't turn wrenches for ya!
Just remember; give us as much info as possible. When we ask a question answer it to the best of your ability and if you have no clue what we are talking about, let us know that too! We don't bite (too bad anyway) when you simply don't know something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks a lot, why I posted here

Mechanically Im pretty good, but when NYB posted what he did, I was toast. Just about everything he said was out of my league. I would need a youtube tutorial and I would be good, translating text to my way of learning is not how my brain works. I have no doubt I could do it with that but again im traveling 6 days a week. Im interested in the Lead Hill shop it is 170 mile from me between where I am and home I will have to call them and chat. This week there has been another issue with the cold weather and the batteries going down. Had both checked at two locations and came back good. Had to jump it the other day drive it for 10 minutes shut it off and it will start right back up and be good for a few days. There is nothing on no radio nothing. Thanks for everyone help, I will continue on in hopes of finding the cure.
 

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First thing with batteries going down over a few days is check ALL of your connections (batteries, alternator, starter...)
Also check alternator voltage under a load.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I heard today there is a shop around Joplin MO. That specializes in the 7.3, is anyone else familiar with this shop. I have extreme diesel 20 mile from where I live but the are more dodge shop than ford. I will be on a job in Joplin this year and it's 2 1/2 hours from the house.
 

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You're asking a bunch of 7.3 lovers if you should keep your 7.3. Mine has 300k on it and is starting to nickel and dime me. I'm not a mechanic, but my 6.4 costs me less than the 7.3. If it weren't for my long drive to work and my 7.3 getting better fuel mileage and 6.4 horror stories it'd be gone. Newer vehicles ride better, pull better, start better.
 
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