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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I imagine that you guys down here in the basement are having troubles with fuel leaks like the superduty crowd is. I just posted some photos that may help out with this.

Here's some pix of a 94-97 van filter drain valve.

Valve_removed_from_filter.JPG

o-rings_removed_-_valve_in_closed_position.JPG

Valve_in_open_position.JPG

turned_180_deg_from_open.JPG

Stem_partially_removed.JPG

Or you can go to my album that has more pix (hit the max of 5 inserted in a post) and some notes about disassembling the valve.

94-97 Fuel Drain Valve - TheDieselStop.Com Photo Hosting
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No, in fact, you can't even buy the o-rings separate from Ford AFAIK. They just sell the whole valve.

Any place that sells o-rings can fix you up. Viton is the preferred material, but Buna-N has been working for me for quite a while (over 1-1/2 yrs). For Viton o-rings, try www.mcmaster.com or www.oringsusa.com
 

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[ QUOTE ]
No, in fact, you can't even buy the o-rings separate from Ford AFAIK. They just sell the whole valve.

Any place that sells o-rings can fix you up. Viton is the preferred material, but Buna-N has been working for me for quite a while (over 1-1/2 yrs). For Viton o-rings, try www.mcmaster.com or www.oringsusa.com

[/ QUOTE ]Once I looked at the pics I saw instantly why the o rings are not sold separately. The rings serve as ball valve seats....so they are considered a part of the valve itself...Yeah, they also seal the valve body to the filter, but....

Now you see why it's is best to use viton...as they are seats, then they experience wear whenever you operate the valve, unlike a static seal.
 

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what size are the O-rings? id like to have them on hand before i tear into it. thanks, -marty
 

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Discussion Starter #6
O-ring size is -202
1/2" OD x 1/4" ID x 1/8" thickness (nominal dimensions)
 

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thanks
 

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If you decide to replace the o-ring on the top of the valve stem at the same time, it is a -013 o-ring...
Just my .01
Tom
 

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ok i know where the 2 torx tip screws are and i have my o-rings in hand. my question is do i have to remove my filter bowl or can i somehow get to the 2 screws for removing and installing. it looks tight because it is at the bottom of the bowl. thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #10
[ QUOTE ]
ok i know where the 2 torx tip screws are and i have my o-rings in hand. my question is do i have to remove my filter bowl or can i somehow get to the 2 screws for removing and installing. it looks tight because it is at the bottom of the bowl. thanks

[/ QUOTE ]

Sorry I can't tell you, as I've never done the job on an OBS truck, just borrowed the filter bowl from a buddy to take the pix.

There's one sure way to find out, and that's dig in and try it.

Post what you find out here, so other folks will know.
 

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If you got super small extra long fingers and they can bend in several areas at once then you might be able to but if not,take the rubber line lose on back of filter can to pump,take lose the line on the right side of the filter can,look in back of filter at very bottom youll see two metric bolts holding it down,take out,now youll be able to move filter can around some,not much but enough to get a t15 torx socket on,break lose then use fingers to turn socket till out a bit,then use just fingers to completly remove little torx screws,the handle comes off with it once its lowered alittle,,the newer valves have 4 torx screws and want work on older 94s,take your time,if you drop anything youll need a small magnet to fish it out.
 

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My 95 Ps 7.3 is leaking bad!! It began stalling now and then. Then I noticed stains on the driveway, thought tranny was leaking, it was diesel fuel. Its deep enuff in the block valley to splash with you fingers.... A mech has removed all but the filer housing and can't find the leak yet... what do you think, could this post be about what is wrong ???
 

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I once had a leak so bad in my 97' that it took the whole rear tank and half of the front to run 10 miles! When I took it apart, the fuel housing must have been a bad casting..... there was a dime sized hole in the bottom of it! Took it to a welder and had him tig the hole shut since a new housing was over $300. So far so good.
 

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Same here, decent bad leak but comes and goes...I think its the O-Rings...But somebody on NTPS said you can buy just the o-rings at Ford?
 

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I just replaced mine on my 96 but I think my filter housing might be leaking too (cracked?). BTW you can get the screws out with the filter in place. I got this little racheting deal from Harbor Frieght. You squeez the handle and it turns the bit comes in a box with all the bits. Mine was philips but the kit has torx bits also. Was real easy with that tool ($14).
 

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McMaster-Carr tends to sell o-rings in packs of 25 or 100. There has been a vendor on ebay selling them in individual service packs for the PSD drain valves. Or just buy them and share them with 24 of your friends as they are fairly cheap (viton ones) from McMaster-Carr.
 

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A great product to trace fuel leaks is Spectroline Gas-Glo p/n 1U-5574. It's a fluorescent dye designed to be poured into the tank and fluoresces under black light at the point of the leaks.
 

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Mines leaking again go figure... Damn pile of junk Ford... Anybody have a place that sells these o-rings? These guys around here are complete idiots and don't know what a part is unless their little computer tells them what it is.. I will pay postage if somebody can get me the correct o-rings to do the whole housing...Thanks!
 

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??? Nobody
Does anybody else see a problem with some of the parts on these Ford trucks? It seems as if they were engineered to break...
 
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