[ZOP]

Well I've got a few questions....like what are the specifics for the ring gear in an 84 F250 6.9L? (see sig) Teeth? ID? OD? Pitch? Also same for clutch and release/TOB. Can it be replaced with the engine *in* the truck, IE with a tranny jack can I pull the front and rear shafts, and then the tranny+xfer case assembly and get to the flywheel to change the ring gear and/or clutch? I know I need a new ring gear (flat/dead spots heh) but I think the clutch is fine, just might need a new TOB while I'm in there...then again while I have it apart I might decide to go ahead and replace the clutch in there. Especially if I can only do it by pulling the engine. Heck I don't even have access to a big enough hoist or cherry picker to lift the engine out.....atleast not with the tranny and xfer case still attached.


I know the TOB has issues in these, and I'm definitely experiencing either firewall flex or bad TOB, I have to diagnose that here sometime soon. On a hot day it's hard to get the truck to totally disengage. It's only an issue for me going into reverse or putting into 1/2nd to start out. After that going up gears is fine, and going down I just blip the throttle, I hardly notice it because I pretty much do this anyway when I gear down unless I'm really trying for a lot of engine braking heh.


Any help/advice you all could give would be great!

TY!

 

[homelessgoat]

good day

l dont remember the specs

but l replaced my ring gear when l did my clutch a while back
and the shop where l had my flywheel resurfaced had no ptoblem geting the gear

you definatly can do the job with the engine in the truck

l seperated the transfer case from the traney to make things easier
and the crossmember was a real pain in the ass to remove (rust frozen bolts)

but the clutch/fly wheel was easy

there are some usefull threads on clutch jobs on here...

you dont even need to jack the truck up...

goat

 

[hesutton]

Did it last week. Remove the shift boot on the tranny. Push the red plastic dots (on both sides of the lower square part of the stick) and pull/pry upward to get the shifter off the tranny. Remove the transmision cover plate on the floor pan. I forgot to do this and there was no way to get the tranny out until this pan was out of the way. I guess that's why it is removable.

Pry the T-case linkage off one side or the other. Unbolt the T-case shifter from the tranny to T-case adaptor and remove the T-case shifter. Hopefully your slave cylinder still has the plastic cap with the retainer taps. It makes removal/installation so much easier. Otherwise, the slave cylinder will fight you! Reguardless, it needs to come off the bellhousing. Take the driveshafts off, then the T-case. Put a tranny jack/floor jack under the T19. Remove the four bellhousing bolts, then the crossmember. You should have some help with this by the way. Pull the tranny toward the back of the truck until the input shaft is out of the clutch disk/pilot bearing/TOB/bellhousing. Once clear, just lower the tranny down.

Remove the bellhousing. Remove the pressure plate and then the flywheel. There you have it. Just do the reverse to get it all back in there. Be careful! The T19 is heavy, so is the flywheel. Get a buddy to help. Preferable a buddy with a tranny jack. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif

I replaced my clutch with a South Bend Clutch 12 inch (stock is 11) kevlar/metalic. Very nice! It came with everything for about 350$.

Heath

 

[ZOP]

thanks guys! sorry for the long time in replying, it's gotten kind of busy this week. seems that the old truck is getting cranky on me, stable rot or something /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif haven't been on a decent trip in a while and after running it this last week i showed up with a fuel leak. haven't isolated it yet, just figured out roughly where it was late last night. i'll have a chance to actually find it tonight, but looks like one of those damnable plastic injector T cap+o-ring buggers. it might be the drain valve for my racor, but i doubt that. once i find out what it is gonna order parts from DIS (need a spare filter anyway).

thanks for the info guys.

nice to be able to do something without having to dismantle the whole vehicle. try putting a clutch in a honda accord, oy.

 

[ZOP]

oh the search by the way....doesn't appear to be working at all for me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif

 

[ZOP]

[ QUOTE ]
...
Remove the bellhousing. Remove the pressure plate and then the flywheel. There you have it. Just do the reverse to get it all back in there. Be careful! The T19 is heavy, so is the flywheel. Get a buddy to help. Preferable a buddy with a tranny jack. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif

I replaced my clutch with a South Bend Clutch 12 inch (stock is 11) kevlar/metalic. Very nice! It came with everything for about 350$.

Heath

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks for the detailed instructions! They'll help a LOT when it comes time. And yeah the T19 is a heavy bastard just like the rest of these old rigs. It's one of the reasons why I like em. Don't have to worry much about hurting them pretty much no matter what you do. $350 isn't bad at all for a k/m clutch assy. Nice. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif

I'll figure out what the heck I'm doing in the next few weeks here. I don't even have a garage right now but I've a friend who does. He'd also be willing to help LOL, doesn't know much about mechanical stuff and always likes to learn so free help /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[hesutton]

Good luck with everything. The Flywheel bolts torque to 47 ftlbs. If you need any more torque vaules, just ask when the time comes. Hope the fuel leak if easy to fix. They can be a real PITA.

Heath

 

[ZOP]

[ QUOTE ]
Good luck with everything. The Flywheel bolts torque to 47 ftlbs. If you need any more torque vaules, just ask when the time comes. Hope the fuel leak if easy to fix. They can be a real PITA.

Heath

[/ QUOTE ]

Yeah, that turned out to be the big o-ring on the bottom of the fuel filter! I must've nicked it somehow when I put it on, replaced it, snugged it down, all's good.