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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok so I just about finished gathering up parts for the replace the tank, hutch, harpoon, pre pump filter project(s) and dropped the tank today to see what I was working with.

I know lots of you van and F450 + guys have had the delamination issues and the effects of the delamination...Poor driveability, low power, stuttering, stalling, shaking, vibrating, feeling like your tires were way out of balance while driving etc......

I wanted to make a post w/ the title so that if anyone has any symptoms that a simple google search will take them here so they can fix their issues and look at the photos to get a nice clear picture of what exactly they are up against.

First a trick for lowering the tank is to use tie downs hooked to the frame. Disconnect the straps and let the tank be supported by the tie downs then lower each tie down until the tank is on the ground. No need for a floor jack to lower the tank. I think member Bork told me about this.

I am attaching pics of what delaminated tank looks like if you dont already know. I am also posting pictures of the inside of the mixing chamber which has now been eliminated via the Hutch Mod (search Guzzle Hutch Mod for detailed write up).

After pulling my mixing chamber apart I am convinced that replacing just the tank wont cure the issues associated w/ the delamination of the tank. Both my inner screens were almost completely clogged w/ the flaking residue and could cause fuel flow issues at any point down the road.

SO if you take your vehicle to the dealer and they bend you over for the cost of the tank and the cost of them to replace the tank (its a piece of cake to do this yourself BTW) make sure they replace your mixer or replace the screens in the mixer / strainer at a minimum. Better yet is to do the work your self and do the hutch mod so the issue never arises again. BUT if you hutch mod remember you really should do a pre fuel pump filter setup.

See pics. I will be putting up pic in another thread of my pre pump filter setup I decided to go with when I am finished.

Hopefully this thread helps at least one person fix their van.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-...I/AAAAAAAAAqc/9szI6YgWRq0/s640/Ford%25201.jpg

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https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-...I/AAAAAAAAAqg/Fa7Ap1QWdYw/s640/Ford%25203.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-...I/AAAAAAAAAq0/gkiMJXs5p0E/s640/Ford%25204.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-...I/AAAAAAAAAq4/IlE819OZDEI/s640/Ford%25205.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...I/AAAAAAAAAqU/JhTxo21wc94/s640/Ford%25206.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #2
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With the gigantic filter screen and the bypass on the side (which clearly opened and sucked metal from your tank) an additional filter is probably not really needed as long as you have a mesh filter in your tank. (I don't...)

Anyone running altfuels should get plastic tanks, to reduce the risk of delamination
 

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YUP! Thats what I had also, but worst! dropped tank 2 more times after 1st time, for more crud. I figured a new tank would do the same. BTW, the little check valve just above foot(on mine) comes out real easy, so if one blows back on suction line , thinking to blow crud off foot, the check valve falls out and allows you to run out of fuel early. So back on topic, late on Saturday & couldn't take tank to get boiled out. I had approx 15lbs of concrete cut nails(the square tapered ones), dumped them in tank and shook /rattled & rolled tank. Just about all galvanizing came off except top side where fuel didn't seem to affect . removed all nails & scrapped out crud, then flushed with more fuel a few times & looked shinny clean. put back together & on my way. Pay attention to strapping and any rubbing of tank on frame. There is a tsb on the straps & insulation. I put silicone caulk on some ares that might be questionable & let dry & put old split bicycle tubes where needed. Make sure straps are snug so tank doesn't shift/shimmey as to wear a hole someplace. On top, I have a real small crack/hole, I patched with a thin steel plate & JB weld. Seems strong & holding well. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
With the gigantic filter screen and the bypass on the side (which clearly opened and sucked metal from your tank) an additional filter is probably not really needed as long as you have a mesh filter in your tank. (I don't...)

Anyone running altfuels should get plastic tanks, to reduce the risk of delamination
Again there is no one making a plastic OEM direct fit tank for the Vans I have searched extensively. Also I did the Hutch mod as noted above which eliminates the mixer/strainer/ internal tank screens entirely hence the need for the pre pump filtration system I will be using..The only screen in tank is the pickup foot screen. :read:

Bork thanks for the tie down strap trick! Worked like a charm to reinstall too!

The Spectra Premium fuel tank F41B which is suppose to only fit 1997-2001 E350 Diesel Vans does in fact work on the 2003 E350 w/ the 7.3L.

Its Ti-Nerne coated...So far no one knows what the van and F450 and bigger truck tanks are lined with. At least not that I can find and believe me I have searched and read more than I care to on the topic.
I found this however

"Why NOT to use Galvanized Fuel Tanks in a Diesel Engine

The material the in "good" tanks are made from is ni-terne or terne strip.
Ni-terne is cold rolled, flashed with nickel then hot dipped with
90% lead 10% tin give or take a couple %pts.
NO Zinc.
Terne steel is hot dipped with just lead and tin no nickel flash.

Galvanize is hot dip zinc.
Galvalume is hot dipped zinc and aluminum.
Galvanneal is dipped zinc then strip annealed.

My steel mill expertise for you.

Diesel fuel coming in contact with zinc, copper or alloys containing them will cause accelerated aging of diesel fuel.
These metals will quickly react with diesel fuel to form unstable compounds.
In Other words, don't use zinc coated tanks use lead & tin"

Dont know how accurate the above is but time will tell if the Spectra Premium fuel tank holds up to diesel fuel. They claimed when I talked to them that they had never had a tank of theirs delaminate.
 

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I have the same problem with a 2005 E350 Quigley 4x4 conversion van with a cut down tank to clear the transfer case. Someone on another forum mentioned that the 2011 vans have a plastic tank that "looks" shorter and taller than the past tanks. This would be a good replacement for me and possibly others if it is truly shorter than the stock tank. My tank has been cut down to 60 inches long. Does anyone have access to one of these vehicles and could take a measurement of the tank? You can buy a new plastic tank from Tousley Ford for a fraction of the cost of boiling and re-coating your existing tank.
Jack
 

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Regarding the plastic insulation of the metal retaining straps, I used some old linoleum I had lying around and attached it with 3M general purpose trim adhesive. So far, so good.
 

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It only cost 2-300 to have my tank boiled out... Are you saying you can get a new plastic tank for less than that? Man... (didn't get mine recoated)

If I get a chance, I'll get under there and measure my tank.
 

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I was referring to the total cost of boiling and re-coating the tank. I've been told it would run around $700 to $800 complete. I looked up the cost of a new 2011 E350 tank on the Tousley Ford website and it was in the low $300 range. I'm also getting a quote from a local fabrication shop to build a custom stainless steel tank for comparison. I hate the thought of doing the boil and coat treatment without being sure it will last.
Jack
 

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You might check into Aluminum too, if you have skid plates. It is highly compatible with all the fuels you might potentially burn and can save you some weight. As compared to stainless it might not even be more expensive, if you happen to have someone near you who can weld it competently. It can be done with a MIG when cosmetics are not critical.
 

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That's a good idea. I'm going to look into all possibilities and get quotes. If I go with aluminum or plastic, I'll get a skid plate fabricated for it.
Jack
 

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There is a company that blast the inside of the tanks and they apply a coating mon the inside, Anyone have the name of them?

You can drop off your original tank as a core and they will give you a finished one for a fast turn-around.

I have never pulled my tank down, never had any clogged fuel filter issues.

If I were to ever pull the tank down I would install the new coated/inside tank
and do the hutch/poon mod.

I have a 2nd fuel tank made by transferflow and I know their tanks don't de-lam,
I have the 27 gal. tank between the rear end and the spare tire.

I am really thinking about installing the dual filter system, either a cat or the dahl.

I always keep my tanks filled, the main all the time and the aux about 10 gallons.

The TRAX II Computer will dump the fuel from the aux to the main tank when the gallons in the main get lower than the aux tank.

Right now I can fit 36 in the main and 28 in the Aux. for 64 total. 64x8 lbs. = 512 lbs.

1/4 ton of fuel, that is some weight. I can feel the van is a little sluggish when topped-off. I run the 80 HP Tune with the 4" Magnaflow, my exhaust is completely wrapped w/header tape and it's nice and quiet inside.
 

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2012 E series fuel tank capacity is listed as 35 gallons. Quigley continues to list their capacity as 31 gallons, so I doubt the shorter plastic tank is being used in 4x4 conversions.
 

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Check my sig. I had my tank dropped and reconditioned by Gas Tank Renu. It cost me $1K. I still get a few small rust colored flakes but no more of the gooey grey stuff like before. I plan on keeping my van for the long term so I'm considering a custom aluminum tank of higher capacity.
 

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I talked to the customer service rep at Quigley and was told they still use their cut down steel tanks in their conversions. Their opinion on the subject is that their welding the steel cap on the tank does not start (or cause) the problem but it's the fault of fuel supplements that soften the inner coating. I have to admit, I used power service supplement in every tank during the 10,000 miles I actually drove the van. I bought it with 52,000 miles on it so I don't know what happened to it before I bought it.
Jack
 

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Check my sig. I had my tank dropped and reconditioned by Gas Tank Renu. It cost me $1K. I still get a few small rust colored flakes but no more of the gooey grey stuff like before. I plan on keeping my van for the long term so I'm considering a custom aluminum tank of higher capacity.
Wow,
An aluminum tank that is DOT Approved and a bit larger than 35 gallons would be cool, even a 35 would be good.

I would be interested in a aluminum tank that fits right where the stock tank goes.

Maybe if 3-5 of us ordered them from the same guy he would cut us a deal
and we all can have a killer tank system.

I believe Transferflow made my 27 gal tank out of steel, but I know it's good inside as they make top gear.

It would be nice to have a new aluminum main tank that has ports built into at the top for a fuel return line, and a port that will allow the fuel from my transferflow aux tank to main tank. Another nice option would be a bottom valve that would allow us to empty the fuel tank completely, in case someone put gas in the tank by accident or just to drain some bad fuel from a dirty fill-up somewhere. It would be nice to be able to open a valve and drain the tank dry.

I would go for the tank if the price is fair, so you have 2 builds now.
 

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Better lock the drain, for when the thieves start steeling again!
 

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Does anyone know of someone with a 2004 or later Quigley that got a Transferflow to fit? Transferflow stopped offering them; I had heard they won't fit. I know Sportsmobile installs them in they're 4x4 conversion vans, but they use the smaller Atlas transfer case. I'd be willing to throw down on a Transferflow, but only if I knew for sure it would fit...I hate stopping every 250 miles on a long trip.
 

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Hmmm.. I always figured the de-lam of Quigley tanks was due to breaking the inner coating because of the cutting/welding, but I really don't know. I don't remember how many, if any, 2WD vanners out there have ever had a de-lam problem on their stock tank... ???

Either way, it's a crappy problem to have. And speaking of filtration, I put on an Air Dog and nipped a lot of these concerns in the bud...
 

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I have a 2004 with a T-F tank. My van has a Salem-Kroger conversion with an F350 transfercase. The transmission has a spacer between it and the transfercase to take up the longer 2wd output shaft.

Physically, the tank should fit a Quigley. But, Quigley no longer will install them. And T-F will only sell to qualified upfitters (Sportsmobile, Whitefeather (ex Salem-Kroger), QuadVan, etc) not to individuals.

I've got 80K+ on my T-F tank without problems.

Mike
 
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