[Spencnaz]

I've been looking around for a filter system like a Gulf Coast or a Frantz system that will allow me to run extended drain intervals.

I would like to get a Gulf Coast system but the price is a bit high. I was looking at a Frantz but I remember an old mechanic friend telling me that they were so good at filtration that they removed the additives from the oil with the TP roll they used for the filter element.

Any thoughts or experiences with these type of bypass filters? I can see the benefits of the Gulf Coast system but they're hard to obtain it seems for a reasonable price and the Frantz system seems to be the same thing but at a better price.

 

[LMJD]

Speaking as another old mechanic, we had one retire years back and he started pedaling Frantzes. He quickly became the laughing stock of the shop every time he came around and actually expected any of us to buy one. Our general concensus was that toilet paper isn't designed to filter engine oil. Just my opinion, but if the RV dealers can advise various brands of TP that desintigrate better than others so as not to clog up your RV plumbing, etc, what does it do with hot engine oil running through it even though it may look OK in the filter housing when changing it? Plus in looking back on how competitive the various engine mfgrs are in regards to engine longevity and service intervals based on many articles in Fleet Mag, etc, that are subscribed to by truck shops, etc, I think they'd be standard equipment on new vehicles along with the more "magic/miracle" oil additives if they were proven to do a substantial amount of good.

 

[Sparkydm]

When I looked into them a few years back I wanted a system designed
for the purpose. Some of them required you to replace so much oil,
up to 4 qts., per filter change it didn't make sense. It was like doing a mini oil change all the time. I also was only able to obtain
independent filter performance testing data from one product. Also
they supplied the absolute filtration data and not nominal. I went
into it pretty heavy for months and made my decision from that. I don't sell any of them as it was just for my personal truck. It's
an interesting study for anyone to do. The information is out there,
just go hunting for it. Good luck! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif

 

[Spencnaz]

I've used Gulf Coast filter systems before and agree with you on the TP point. However, this filter isnt seeing total system oil pressure and I dont think that the TP would disintegrate like that. At least from my perspective.

I'd like to get an unbiased testimonial from someone who has actually used one of these things. Many mechanics think that additives and the like are 'snake oils' without any laboratory evidence to back up their assertions. In my years as a diesel mechanic, I found it was the additives in the oil that got depleted not the oil itself that went bad, this I found out with routine oil analysis.

 

[Sparkydm]

You're right about the additives. The soot, water, and etc. use
up the additives in the oil. The base oil doesn't "wear" out. Once
the additive package becomes ineffective, you're toast! If you're
able to keep the contaminents down and add a little oil, additive,
to the system every 10K or so you're good to go. But, good oil
analysis will tell the tale. We had an Engineering manager that
never could understand the concept of "bypass filtration" no matter
what the test data told him. His masters degree wouldn't allow him
to think out of the box and accept objective testing. If was
frustrating but, everyone in the dept. gave up trying until he
left. I realize that it wasn't the degree, just his tunnel vision. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif

 

[deeretrac]

are you set on this kind of system ? or will a spin on bypass filter work for you? if yes to the spin on, search under my user name and go to the DIY Bypass oil filter thread(get ready for a long read) but it will give you instructions for a DIY bypass oil filter for a lot less $$$$$ than anything on the market. hope this helps. if you have any more questions PM me and i will try to help you.

Rob

 

[Birken Vogt]

For what it's worth both Fleetguard and Wix et. al. have filters now for the PSD that have a separate internal bypass element, also they are starting to produce these for the old Detroits and Cummins engines, not sure if they are worth a darn or not but they exist and require no modification.

Birken

 

[Sparkydm]

Decide if you want a bypass system to ease your
conscience or one that actually does the job and can
be verified through testing. All of the DIY systems I
looked at didn't have test data any better than the
primary filter already on the system. This also applied
to many of the marketed stems also. It looked
cool but was a technical placebo. Serious wear particles
are mainly in the 5-7 micron range. Remember, I'm going by
fuzzy memory as it's been a few years since digging into
this. Your main filter is effective into the 30 micron range.
That's why it's a good idea to change it often. All of the
DIY systems I looked into were using filters that didn't
come close to being effective against the majority of wear
particles. At least, that was what I was after. I figured
that an effective system teamed with a good synthetic and
extended drain intervals would actually be less expensive
than traditional oil changes and help protect the engine
better. Of course, oil analysis must be included. Anyway,
that gives you an idea of what I was looking for and my
signature will let you know where I ended up. Not for
everyone but, it was my solution for addressing the concern. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif

 

[Spencnaz]

This is great information guys. Thanks. One of the reasons I posted this is that I knew someone on here would either have data or experience with such a system.

The idea of gradually filtering the oil for acids and moisture just makes alot of sense to me, it's just what system to purchase. I've been using Ethos Fuel Reformulator to great results. It's biodegradable and I add it to the fuel (biodiesel) and the crankcase. I'd like to stack the deck in my favor in terms of oil filtration too as the 6.9 is a very sooty engine in my estimation and I want my truck to last till hell freezes over.

Again keep the comments coming, it's helping me to make an informed choice as to my plan of attack on this issue. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Sparkydm]

Investigate the links in my sig. and the others that are available
on this site. Look into the system that I chose, the Amsoil system,
and others that look intersting. Try to get as much independent data
as they will supply you with. Understand the terms that they use and
how their conclusions are drawn. Then, make your decision! See, now
wasn't that easy? NOT. You're probably much more decisive than me
but, I took a few months reading and going over this. I also had
a few years background with real world data at work as to what
bypass filtration was capable of and that's what sold me on the
idea for my truck. Now, if they only had something that worked as
well on rust so the truck body would last as long as the mechanicals. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif

 

[444xt]

Hello! Go with a by-pass filter of known quality. Go to your local Cummins dealer , which would be Cummins Northewst right on 405, and look in the scrap pile for a LF-750 housing or a LF-777 filter head. They will have some used ones laying around from repowers from a Big Cam 2 to a Big cam 3. Put it on and get better filtering as well as extra oil reserve.

 

[LMJD]

Or perhaps one of the old frame mounted Luberfiners for that classic look. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif

 

[JimmyDee]

I can tell you that the Frantz works great on my truck. I have never had any degradation of the TP from anything. It works and keeps the oil a medium honey color that is clear enough to see through. I know there are other products out there that will do the job but I highly recommend the Frantz both for quality and function.
Jim

 

[JimmyDee]

[ QUOTE ]
but if the RV dealers can advise various brands of TP that desintigrate better than others so as not to clog up your RV plumbing

[/ QUOTE ]
One would not, of course, use a RV quality TP in a Frantz filter. In the first place it is too small of a roll. The TP sold for the Frantz is probably made by Scott, but I don't know that for sure and I've never seen the slightest evidence of any seperation or problem with it.
Keep in mind that some of the good oil filter that are made for engines have a paper filter. I know of people that are filtering their cooling water with a Frantz. That filterant is 50% water and with no problems.
I remember the old adds for Scott TP that said is was wet strenght. Same stuff today? I think so. I worked for Scott paper for over 10 years before they got sold by ChainSaw Dumblop. ( /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif )I think it is actually, Dunlap.
Jim

 

[georgehilton]

I have a number of TP filters on various tractors, trucks, 2 PSDs, and a 6.5 TD. All total, 12 TP filters. Some are Frantz and some are Gulf Coast.

They do not disintegrate, are easy to service, inexpensive to replace the elements, and do an excellent filtering job. In one application on a large diesel engine, I have 3 Frantz filters in series. That unit does a remarkable job keeping the oil looking like new for a long, long, time.

The TP filter does not remove the additives. The additive in the oil are elements, such as calcium and ???? Anyhow, the additives are much smaller than the oil contaminints that you want to filter out.

Both the Frantz and Gulf Coast units come up on Ebay from time to time for about 1/2 the price of new. I purchased several like that. Parts for either are readily available from the manufacturers.

The Scott TP is the right stuff, or get it from Frantz if you wish. Then, I do not discuss my oil filtering strategies with my brother in law because..., well,...what does he know anyhow.

 

[Spencnaz]

I thought that might be the case with the additive packages with oils today.

As the disintigration, I remember now that paper of that weight doesnt break down in oil. I mean, how would you be able to wipe up those oily messes in the kitchen if the paper towels came apart?

I won an auction for a Frantz oil filter on eBay. I also found some replacement elements on there too. I think I'll try the OEM elements and try out the Scott TP.

Is that a two ply or a single ply?

 

[bilbo]

I just sent payment for a Gulfcoast filter....paper towel model...unused, old stock, for 128.00 plus 30.00 shiping.
Should get it by Wednesday.

 

[dieseljockey]

My great grandfather has been using the Frantz filters for many, many years. He used to work for a readymix plant, and he always ran them in his truck. He also runs them in all of his vehicles.

 

[georgehilton]

Scott Tissue, 1000 sheets per roll, one-ply. Available at your local grocery store or Wal-Mart. Cheap, easy, works fine.

 

[TruckerDon]

I change mine every 500 miles, and add about a quart or so of oil (just put it on.) I'm removing as little as possible, and cramming the darn roll in there as tightly as possible. How tightly are you guys packing in your TP?

Don.