The cause of a coolant leak was the freeze plug on the back of the motor on the drivers side. It is bulged out slightly on one side. What would cause this. I need to replace this freeze plug but need specific info as I had to pull tranny/tcase/clutch/starter/adapter plate to get to it. I tried briefly to punch a hole with cutting torch but decided to stop when the stainless steel didnt melt quickly as I was hoping. Drilling a hole with a drill bit or a carbide burr would be my next choice so that I can pull the plug without beating on it with a punch and hammer. This is new territory to me so any and all help is appreciated as I sure need it!!!!
freeze plug help
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Joined
·
17,585 Posts
I wouldn't try to drill it. You have to have the steadiness of a brain surgeon not to go thru and hit the block/cylinder wall. I normaly use a flathead screwdriver and with a hammer, hit it at the bottom edge of the "cup". the plug may turn and then you can grab it with a pair of locking pliers. If the screwdriver punches a hole through it then you can use the small pointed end of a prybar or a bigger screwdriver to get it out.
Joined
·
926 Posts
You'd have to drill pretty far/hard to go clear in and hit the cylinder wall, then to do any damage other than a tiny scuff.
But like chuckster said- beat on the edges with a screwdriver to flip it, then grab on with some vice grips or the like and yank it out. Just don't shove it back into the block- that makes it not fun to remove.
But like chuckster said- beat on the edges with a screwdriver to flip it, then grab on with some vice grips or the like and yank it out. Just don't shove it back into the block- that makes it not fun to remove.
Joined
·
17,585 Posts
I agree the odds of hitting any internals and causing damage is probably small, but you never know how big a drill bit and drill someone is going to use. I just threw it out there to make a point, kind of like CYA advise....
Are they cup type or convex type? If they're convex, you won't knock them into the coolant passage because they seat against a lip. I've always knocked a hole in them with a sharp punch, then used whatever it took, like Chuckster posted, to pry them out. Whatever you use, don't gouge the sealing surface on the block or you'll be in a world of hurt.
No problemo if you put them in right and use the right sealer. In all the shops I worked in for over 3 decades, replacing freeze plugs was part of an overhaul after hot tanking the block and I can't remember any of us have a leaker.
Looks like factory
The frreze plugs I think are the ones that came from the factory. they all have a dimple in the center. The replacement plug I have to go into the block is looks like the ones in the block but doesnt have the dimple it came from a IH dealer. I read on some old post by searching freeze plugs and someone mentioned that the dimple is caused by a special tool for these plugs that seals them. Too Much and it wont seal and not enough and it wont seal. I called local IH dealer today and they said they dont use special tool. I called local another IH dealer ane got the same story. The plugs in the block have a funny looking dimple in them and my replacement does not. I sure would like to know what to do because the trouble of removing the tranny etc if this plug dont seal will be great.
Looking for the Answer. thanks
The frreze plugs I think are the ones that came from the factory. they all have a dimple in the center. The replacement plug I have to go into the block is looks like the ones in the block but doesnt have the dimple it came from a IH dealer. I read on some old post by searching freeze plugs and someone mentioned that the dimple is caused by a special tool for these plugs that seals them. Too Much and it wont seal and not enough and it wont seal. I called local IH dealer today and they said they dont use special tool. I called local another IH dealer ane got the same story. The plugs in the block have a funny looking dimple in them and my replacement does not. I sure would like to know what to do because the trouble of removing the tranny etc if this plug dont seal will be great.
Looking for the Answer. thanks
Right, a special tool isn't needed, but a little "mechanical appitude" is:icon_wink:. First, after you've got the old plug out, take some sandpaper or whatever and clean all the scale and crud from around the hole. Take a small screwdriver and clean ALL the scale from the lip area where the plug actually seals and makes contact. Get a can of what's called Aviation Permatex, the brown stuff. Put some on the edges of the plug and on the sealing surface of the hole. After you set the plug in the hole, you take the proper size ball peen hammer (big plug, bigger ball end on the hammer) and center the ball of the hammer at the center of the plug. Then, with another heavy hammer, smack the face of the ball peen hammer not too hard, but not too soft, and presto, you've dimpled the plug and expanded it tightly in it's bore forever more.:lol:
It's not rocket science, key thing is you have to know what you're doing, and do it right, like cdnsarguy just said, if you don't feel confident doing it, maybe you can get it to a shop somehow.
Another option is if your town is fairly large, you probably have a mobil diesel mechanic (does work on the road, etc.) and he'd probably charge an hour's labor at most if you had everything ready for him and had him come out.
The special tool is ford Rotunda tool # 303-D045 Expansion Plug Replacer
Call 1-800-ROTUNDA ( the number rings through to OTC/SPX tools) and yes it is required. The engineers would not have designed it nor would the manual specify it's use if that were not the case. The tool ensures that the plug is dimpled just the right amount while keeping the shape of the outer rim from becoming inverted, keeping everything in perfect position where it will stay in place. There is simply no way you can accomplish all of this without the tool. Eyeballing and artistic license are great for things like decorating cakes, but they have no place in rebuilding engines.
The freeze plugs are ford part #E3TZ6026A and list price is $0.97 ea
Either get them from Ford or from International, but nowhere else, aftermarket plugs are shaped differently and will behave differently in the tool, they also are not finished as well on the edges, the factory plugs have smooth well finished edges.
Call 1-800-ROTUNDA ( the number rings through to OTC/SPX tools) and yes it is required. The engineers would not have designed it nor would the manual specify it's use if that were not the case. The tool ensures that the plug is dimpled just the right amount while keeping the shape of the outer rim from becoming inverted, keeping everything in perfect position where it will stay in place. There is simply no way you can accomplish all of this without the tool. Eyeballing and artistic license are great for things like decorating cakes, but they have no place in rebuilding engines.
The freeze plugs are ford part #E3TZ6026A and list price is $0.97 ea
Either get them from Ford or from International, but nowhere else, aftermarket plugs are shaped differently and will behave differently in the tool, they also are not finished as well on the edges, the factory plugs have smooth well finished edges.
I guess that depends on your mechanical expertise, or more importantly, the lack thereof. Like the OP posted, the cake decorators at two IH shops he checked with, plus myself and any shops I worked in never had a problem using the standard procedure. I'm glad you got the job done with the help of the tool. It's handy in your case that Ford sells a tool, but in the real world, (truck shops), for some odd reason you'd find all engine mfgrs vary soft plug bores by as small as a 1/32" of an inch difference in diameter so a shop would have more tools than Paris Hilton if they had to grab one every time they put in a soft plug since they run from as small as 1/2" to 3" dia. The OP can install it any way he chooses.
Well, if that was the case, I'd of had more leakers than I can count, not to mention the other 12+ mechanics I worked with for 3 decades. Just how many have you installed?
Joined
·
195 Posts
Well guys I havnt installed 100s but ive put a few dozen in, in gas motors, pontiacs and fords, in my street cars and race cars and ive allways just used a socket that fit inside the plug, or a solid piece of flat steel plate and a ball pien hammer,and used permatex, and never had any leak at all, even on my blown and injected 351 cleveland ,and that motor took a real beating, :ford:
Yessir, me too, but we're talking about the convex type, not cup type. The convex type fits easily in the bore, but it goes up against a lip around the bore diameter. Then you dimple the plug center to expand it, they're actually easier to install than the cup type.
Joined
·
195 Posts
Oh im sorrry am I talking like a GAS owner does damm I wish that would stop happening LMAO I leanrt something else new about these motors, it kind of like owning a boat isnt it. Ha Ha:ford:
Actually lots of diesels use the cup type too. I wouldn't know about the boat deal, I'd be the poster boy for the saying that the two happiest days a boat owner has is the first day out in it and the day he sells it.:lol:
I couldn't figure out where Farmington is and now I see it's right around Jerold Camarillo's country. If you ever run across him at a branding or whatever, you'll find he's about the nicest, down-to-earth guy you ever met for someone who's been a many times NFR qualifer and Senior Pro Rodeo world champion.
I couldn't figure out where Farmington is and now I see it's right around Jerold Camarillo's country. If you ever run across him at a branding or whatever, you'll find he's about the nicest, down-to-earth guy you ever met for someone who's been a many times NFR qualifer and Senior Pro Rodeo world champion.
Thanks very much to all
Although I think the shop who pressure tested the block missed th ball on this block when the leak became apparent after motor isntallation. I also must share some blame thru my inexperience and not noticing the slight bulge around the plug. I had to either pull motor again or tranny. I chose tranny/transfer case etc. We live in a county with only two redlights so you get the pic on local expertise/knowledge with this motor. When I tried the ford place nearest here they are as usual cluless about any procedures on a 7;3 IDI. and getting parts is like pulling teeth. I usually call around to dealerships etc but find that this forum specifically for the 7.3 will yield either the specific information and procedure or the next best thing, Either way I can assure you it is far superior to the info I have aquired locally. For Example I ran into the IH parts guy (young guy) at the hardware store in the next county over, I asked him about installaing th ss freeze plug I had purchased from him the other dayand about the special tool. His advice was to use a socket to tap the plug into the hole but mentioned nothing about dimpleing it to make it seal. So you see why I cherish all the comments i recieve from this forum. I realize some of the beliefs of the posters are slightly contrary to each other and may even disagree but by reading them and checking up on them I am able to with good concience figure out what I think is the best thing to do under the circumstances,be they normal circumstances or unusual, Since in this case I could not find anylone locally or near that had a clue about the special tool for the ss freeze plug i jnstalled it with what I considered the second best info the ball peen hammer and some epoxy sealant. The dimple is not as perfect as with the tool I am sure but the installation in this manner is far superior to any way recommended around here locally. Thanks to everyone who helped with my problem, I cetainly have enough knowledge about the freeze plug in this engine now to be confidant that the next time one or all need be changed that the proper kind, the proper way etc. will be used.
Although I think the shop who pressure tested the block missed th ball on this block when the leak became apparent after motor isntallation. I also must share some blame thru my inexperience and not noticing the slight bulge around the plug. I had to either pull motor again or tranny. I chose tranny/transfer case etc. We live in a county with only two redlights so you get the pic on local expertise/knowledge with this motor. When I tried the ford place nearest here they are as usual cluless about any procedures on a 7;3 IDI. and getting parts is like pulling teeth. I usually call around to dealerships etc but find that this forum specifically for the 7.3 will yield either the specific information and procedure or the next best thing, Either way I can assure you it is far superior to the info I have aquired locally. For Example I ran into the IH parts guy (young guy) at the hardware store in the next county over, I asked him about installaing th ss freeze plug I had purchased from him the other dayand about the special tool. His advice was to use a socket to tap the plug into the hole but mentioned nothing about dimpleing it to make it seal. So you see why I cherish all the comments i recieve from this forum. I realize some of the beliefs of the posters are slightly contrary to each other and may even disagree but by reading them and checking up on them I am able to with good concience figure out what I think is the best thing to do under the circumstances,be they normal circumstances or unusual, Since in this case I could not find anylone locally or near that had a clue about the special tool for the ss freeze plug i jnstalled it with what I considered the second best info the ball peen hammer and some epoxy sealant. The dimple is not as perfect as with the tool I am sure but the installation in this manner is far superior to any way recommended around here locally. Thanks to everyone who helped with my problem, I cetainly have enough knowledge about the freeze plug in this engine now to be confidant that the next time one or all need be changed that the proper kind, the proper way etc. will be used.
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
