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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Time to do the front rotors and pads. I have never replaced the rotors on this truck before. How do you remove them on the dana 50?
Thanks in advance.
Angelo
 

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Dana 50 is like the Dana 44 except the rotors & hubs are two separate pieces instead of just one....remove Your locking hubs, pull a couple snap rings and slide the hub & rotor off. I have a 1" dia X 10" long brass bar that I used to beat the lug nuts out of the hub then beat the rotor off the hub. Set the new rotor on the hub and carefully line the rotor up with the hub and install the lug nuts and beat them back in solidly. Some people say You have to have the studs pressed out and the rotors on & off but with care and wire brushing & filing the mating surfaces for rust & burrs I have NO run-out of the rotors. DO NOT hammer on the braking surfaces of the new rotors. Use a soft pine board and lightly tap them on.

Install new grease seals in the front hubs, repack wheel bearings, repack lock-out hubs, install snap rings, install hub covers, install brake pads, install front wheels and Your done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you Denny! But is it going to be different with auto hubs?
 

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[ QUOTE ]
Thank you Denny! But is it going to be different with auto hubs?

[/ QUOTE ]

I've never had a set of auto hubs and the three 4X4's I've had so I don't know for sure. Once you get down to the nuts for the wheel bearings they're all the same. Not sure about the auto-locking hubs but My manual hubs took the Third kind of special socket I didn't have....I bought two that said for DANA 60 axles, which the spindles & hubs actually are and neither fit....so CSK had the correct socket, to fit a round ring style nut with six grooves milled radially around the OD every 60 degrees. I took the other two back.
 

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the auto hub nuts are a PITA, i used a small screwcriver and a hammer to turn them off the spindle when i switched over to maunual hubs. the manual hub nuts have a special socket to get them out.
 

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Not sure about how the auto hubs come off (manuals it's 3 torx screws and then a large retaining clip).

The "special socket" is for removing the retaining nuts that hold the outer bearing in place. It is a giant socket with three prongs to align into the three cutouts in the retaining nut. I've done it with the screwdriver and hammer method - the socket is just a lot safer preventing damage.

Once the outer nut is off, pull the hole-filled plate out and then work the inner nut.

I've also used an old lug nut on the end of the wheel studs and hit it with a large sledge hammer to "press" out the studs. Worked great. It also takes some force to knock the rotor off the hub - don't be surprised.
 

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[ QUOTE ]
The "special socket" is for removing the retaining nuts that hold the outer bearing in place. It is a giant socket with three prongs to align into the three cutouts in the retaining nut. I've done it with the screwdriver and hammer method - the socket is just a lot safer preventing damage.

[/ QUOTE ]

4 prongs and 4 slots
 
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