front differential question

695 Views 2 Replies 3 Participants Last post by MarkEkberg, Apr 30, 2006

Rick Thielmann

Discussion Starter · Apr 29, 2006

I am doing the ball joints on a D 50 and trying to replace the seals at the differential also. The left side pulls out, the service manual only says seperate at the slip joinr/rubber boot on the right side. should the yoke at the differential pull out or is it retained inside the differential? Thank you

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MarkEkberg

· #3 · Apr 30, 2006

I don't know why they do it that way. The D44 in the 1/2 tons come out after you take a small plate off.

The ones in our trucks don't come apart that easy.

1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.

UPDATED 1/1/09 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 7 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet, 1 total paint job.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 4.6 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 16.5 cents per mile over the life of the truck.

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