[DevoK12RS]

I am hoping to do a fair amount of front end work in the next week. Figured I'd see if anyone had any advice.

I want to change my shackle/ spring busings. I figured I'd go with rubber because I'd read here that poly bushings are marginally rougher riding. I don't need tight corner handling and whatnot. I just want to freshen things up.

Planning on new Bilstiens. Is eshocks.com the best place/ price? Any other place to check?

I tried taking pix of my bump stop clearance today. They were too big to upload and I didn't have time to take new ones before coming to work. The pass side is 1/4". The dr side is about 3/8 or 1/2. Will these do the trick, or do I need whole new springs? I'd sure appreciate some feed back on this.

I also need to change the front pass rotor (both sides, I guess) and u-joints on the pass side front axle. I don't have any info on how to do this, so if anyone has knowledge/ guidance to share, I'd appreciate it.

I think that's it for now, but I'm sure I'll be back when I start tearing into things.

Thanks everyone,
Devo

 

[sle2115]

I have poly bushings and addaleafs on mine. It is an F250 with the F350 axles (see sig) but I would not hesitate to use the poly busings again. I gained about an inch on the F350 springs with the addaleafs, but the F350 springs are already positive arched. I went from about the same bump stop clearance you had with my F250 springs and axles to closer to 4 inches with the F350 springs. I know I am not comparing apples to apples, but I can tell you that even with the heavier springs, my truck doesn't ride all that bad. I have Rancho's on mine, but not the cheapies that everyone hates. They are like RS9000's IIRC. They were about $50 each and I like them very well, matter of fact, I like the whole setup MUCH better as I am not a big fan of the D44/D50 independant front ends.

 

[FraserScott]

How hard is it to get the bushings out of the spring eye? I would imagine it would be troublesome trying to hit them out with a hammer and punch because the rubber isolator between the two steel shells will just give with the impact of the punch. Is removing the springs and using a press the only way, or can they be done still on the axle? Sorry for butting in, but I'm planning on doing the same job soon. Thanks.

 

[sle2115]

I did mine out of the truck. I bought a cheap impact socket and beat them out that way. A press would be best, but I didn't have that luxury available when I wanted to do them. You can also (I did this as well, works great, but is messy) cut the center sleeve out with a torch. This will burn the rubber out and pretty much just leave the outer sleeve. You can then get into the crack where the leaf spring is coiled and use an air chisel, or even a punch to fold the sleeve in. I found this to be the quickest, but the melted rubber gets all over everything!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[ziggster40]

The add a leafs will work for a while, but they are designed to be added to a positive leaf pack, so they aren't designed for our front ends withe the negative arch, so they will go flat in no time.

I got my bushings out in my driveway. I used a 1/2" drill, and drilled several holes through the rubber part, then when there wasn't much left, beat it out with a hammer. There is a metal sleeve inside the spring eye that has to come out too. I cut it with a hacksaw, and then pried the bits out.

It's a bit of a big job, but not too bad...

Zigg /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[rmr]

I did mine sort of like Zigg just described, drilled a few holes in the rubber then jammed my sawzall in the drilled holes and cut the outer steel sleeve then beat them out with a big hammer, they come out fairly easy once you split that outer sleeve.
I didn't notice it rode any harsher with poly.

 

[sle2115]

I did the drilling method as well, a while back on another set of springs, but knew there had to be an easier way. My favorite is the torch, just as the fastest and I had some of those rubber mechanics gloves, cause once you get that melted rubber on you, it is tough to get off.

 

[DevoK12RS]

[ QUOTE ]
The add a leafs will work for a while, but they are designed to be added to a positive leaf pack, so they aren't designed for our front ends withe the negative arch, so they will go flat in no time.

[/ QUOTE ]
Umm, aren't my current springs bending too much (as opposed to flattening) and won't the helper go on the bottom? That would mean the helper would have to bend too much as well, right? Further, couldn't I hope that if the spring were spec'd for my truck, they'd know it was a neg arch?
[ QUOTE ]
... I gained about an inch on the F350 springs with the addaleafs, but the F350 springs are already positive arched... I know I am not comparing apples to apples...

[/ QUOTE ]
I hope this doesn't sound too ignorant, but you're not saying I could put 350 pos springs on my set-up, right? I'd have to change the whole axle set up, hence the apples/ apples comment, right? That is definitely not an option. This isn't a 'build up' or project truck for me as it is for some. I honestly think that is pretty awesome for some of you, but this is a daily driver for me. I'm not sinking that kind of dough into her.

So it sounds like I need new springs and poly is as reasonable as anything on the bushings.

If I get new springs, I shouldn't have to worry as much about getting the bushings out of the old springs...

Any thoughts on the rotor and u joints? Scott, did you get my direct email? I think I had problems sending you an email before from your profile link here. Let me know if you got it.

Thanks,
Devo

 

[sle2115]

Nope, you could swap F350 springs in there with no mods. I put the F350 springs under mine as well as the D60, but the springs are direct fit, no mods required as long as you are going 4X4 to 4x4 etc. The apples to apples comment was in comparing arched to flat leaf springs. You would not get the clearance I have using your F250 flat springs and honestly, I don't think you will get 1 1/2 to 2 inches, I saw about 1 inch, that was what I was saying I guess.

If I were buying new springs, and this is just me, I would get F350 springs. Either set will most likely come with bushings in the springs themselves, mine did. I took them out and opted for poly.

 

[sle2115]

Oh, and as far as email, I did not get it. Pm your email address and I will add you to my approved list. I filter pretty heavily, especially on this email as it is all over the net! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Scott

 

[DevoK12RS]

[ QUOTE ]
Nope, you could swap F350 springs in there with no mods. I put the F350 springs under mine as well as the D60, but the springs are direct fit, no mods required as long as you are going 4X4 to 4x4 etc. The apples to apples comment was in comparing arched to flat leaf springs. You would not get the clearance I have using your F250 flat springs and honestly, I don't think you will get 1 1/2 to 2 inches, I saw about 1 inch, that was what I was saying I guess.

If I were buying new springs, and this is just me, I would get F350 springs. Either set will most likely come with bushings in the springs themselves, mine did. I took them out and opted for poly.

[/ QUOTE ]
I'm not trying to be dense, but the 350 springs are pos arch right? My springs are neg arch. Which ones are flat? Were mine flat and became neg with age? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif

I would think if I took out neg arch springs and installed pos arch ones anchored in all the same places, I'd end up with 6 inches of lift or something crazy like that. What am I missing? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Thanks for your patience and dutiful work to eliminate my ignorance, /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Devo

 

[sle2115]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Mine were not negative arched, just flat. The F350 springs alone did add some lift, but even with the addaleaf, my front end now stands about 3 or 3 1/2 inches taller. With the F250 springs, mine was prolly close to an inch off the bump stops, but the springs were flat, so I would guess that maybe yours are worn excessively, which could be a good thing in that installing the same spring new would raise you some. Most of these trucks look like they are in a nose dive anyway after all the years with the big hoss engine hanging out there in front.

While I can't verify it for sure, I had three trucks, two F250's and one F350. The F250's were both flat, the F350 was arched. Hope that helps. Maybe some others with F250's of this vintage can look at their springs and chime in as to flat or negative.
Scott

 

[tim94f250]

I don't know if it matters to this thread, but my '94 F250 front springs are flat, with a little negative arch to them. The Dana 60 that I bought from a '91 I believe, came with the springs and they have a pretty good positive arch to them. I can't wait to get it installed. Tim

 

[pnose]

My 92 f-350 has a positive arch,however it isnt much of an arch,could be fatiged,but it does sit nice and level.

 

[highfive]

The one problem with using 350 springs as a replacement is they are a lighter spring rate and will sag in no time with the leverage the TTB frontend puts on it. They are the way to go if you put the dana 60 under it but not if you leave the TTB in. Look at the thickness of the leafs where the ubolts are on a 250 ttb versus a 350 with a 60 and you will see the difference. You mentioned not wanting a harsh ride due to the poly bushings I definitely wouldn't do an add a leaf if you don't want a harsh ride. best to get the poly bushings in everywhere and have everything aligned to see if the springs are all that bad anyway maybe all the collapsed bushings.

 

[sle2115]

[ QUOTE ]
The one problem with using 350 springs as a replacement is they are a lighter spring rate and will sag in no time with the leverage the TTB frontend puts on it. They are the way to go if you put the dana 60 under it but not if you leave the TTB in. Look at the thickness of the leafs where the ubolts are on a 250 ttb versus a 350 with a 60 and you will see the difference.

[/ QUOTE ]

Well, I looked, then I measured and in my case, the are exactly the same, that being measured with a digital dial caliper (not my eyeball so I am not sure I agree with you. Maybe in some cases, but the F350 I had was a 1985 cab and chassis (narrow 34" rear frame) and the truck they went into is a 87 F250.

Maybe the cab and chassis, which I know is heavy duty (it even had the frame rails gussetted for added strength) so that might be the difference.
Scott

 

[pnose]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
The one problem with using 350 springs as a replacement is they are a lighter spring rate and will sag in no time with the leverage the TTB frontend puts on it. They are the way to go if you put the dana 60 under it but not if you leave the TTB in. Look at the thickness of the leafs where the ubolts are on a 250 ttb versus a 350 with a 60 and you will see the difference.

[/ QUOTE ]

Well, I looked, then I measured and in my case, the are exactly the same, that being measured with a digital dial caliper (not my eyeball so I am not sure I agree with you. Maybe in some cases, but the F350 I had was a 1985 cab and chassis (narrow 34" rear frame) and the truck they went into is a 87 F250.

Maybe the cab and chassis, which I know is heavy duty (it even had the frame rails gussetted for added strength) so that might be the difference.
Scott

[/ QUOTE ]

I agree with sle,i cant see how a 4700lb front rating would have a slighter spring pack than a 3800lb front rating.

 

[DevoK12RS]

Ok, these are for a 350 Cab/ chassis, but only have a 2575 capacity. These are for a 250 or 350 and have a 3486 capacity. These seem like the ones I would want, no? Lastly are these, but they are only 2575 also. They're for a 250 and a different PN than the other 2575 ones.

I think the 3486# ones are what I will do unless someone tells me I'm crazy. Contrary to what I thought I had read in the past, this thread leads me to believe the poly bushings are the way to go so I'll add them to the order.

Sound like it'll help?

Thanks again,
Devo

 

[pnose]

[ QUOTE ]
Ok, these are for a 350 Cab/ chassis, but only have a 2575 capacity. These are for a 250 or 350 and have a 3486 capacity. These seem like the ones I would want, no? Lastly are these, but they are only 2575 also. They're for a 250 and a different PN than the other 2575 ones.

I think the 3486# ones are what I will do unless someone tells me I'm crazy. Contrary to what I thought I had read in the past, this thread leads me to believe the poly bushings are the way to go so I'll add them to the order.

Sound like it'll help?

Thanks again,
Devo

[/ QUOTE ]


I dunno,they seem awefull light duty,im wondering if they are indeed diesel rated,our engines have a good 500lbs more than a 460 gasser.

 

[tim94f250]

Devo,
Which front axle do you have, 44, 50, or 60?