[jpciron]

Has anyone ever heard of fuel getting through the plug connector on the back side of the fuel bowl? I belive the plug is for the heater, I noticed two weeks ago the wires looked like they got hot or some fluid had gotten to the ins. Figured I would get a new harness. Today I was putting a muffler back on and noticed a leak, looks like oil but its not. I attached a picture, dont know if it worked but if it did its the white plug and there is the pool of fuel below it. Thanks for any help, Is it ok to drive it like that or should I take a fire extinguisher with me in the morning? Thats a scar not a wart,wife pointed that out.
Thank you
Jason

 

[RT]

Its ok to drive - you can get a fuel filter assembly rebuild kit that will have the parts in it to seal that up.

Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines

I don't see the two o-rings for the heater listed separately, but if you don't want to buy the whole kit, you could probably call Bob and see if he will sell them to you.

 

[Matt0987]

I have the same year/engine Excursion. It's the federally mandated fuel changes. Eats the "O" rings and, perhaps, the sealants. My fuel bowl leaked. By the time I got to it I just rebuilt it. Got the parts and photo instructions from Diesel O Rings or Guzzel. I do not recall which. I have bought stuff from both. It took about 2 hours to remove it, rebuild it, and replace it.
I have since seen a fuel bowl on Ebay with the oil reservor still connected. I got it for $75.00. Got the parts. Rebuilt that one. It is on my shelf "just in case". Though the new parts in the original one should take care of the problem forever.

 

[Tailgate]

It is very possible that the leak is simply from one or both of the O-rings on the drain valve (the yellow valve on the back of the bowl), which is right next to the heater wires. Over time, they flatten out and harden, and the bowl begins to leak.

You can buy an entire valve assembly from the stealership for $60+, or you can buy two (2) #202 Viton o-rings for $2 and simply replace the O-rings on your existing assembly. In a pinch, you can put rubber #202 O-rings on temporarily, but you need to get viton rings for the long haul.

 

[Oneof6]

If you do change out the drain valve o-rings or even replace the drain assembly take some fingernail polish remover and get all the yellow PTFE off the filter cannister and or the old drain valve assembly. If you don't it will probably leak. Lesson I learned the hard aggravating way. 106

 

[jpciron]

Thank you all for the replies and info. Its pissing out good now I think I am going to have to get the parts from the dealer today. I was wondering if the power select fuel supplement could have had something to do with the leak? I use it every fill up now but have not heard of any bad issues from it. Thanks again for the help.
Jason

 

[jpciron]

I have another ? If the orings on the valve go, wont the fuel drain out the tube to the floor? My leak is pooling in the valley and running down the back of the motor. I am just trying to make one trip for parts. Thank you very much.
Jason

 

[Matt0987]

The fuel lays in the valley.

See;

Welcome to guzzle's Powerstroke Fuel Bowl Rebuild Web Page

This where I got my instructions and parts.

Something else I did, as long as I was working on it.... To drain the water from the bowl (The water seperator being an integral part of the fuel bowl.) the instructions say to find the bottom of the drain tube (Pipe), place a recepticle under it to catch the water and fuel, then open the valve. Well, crawling around under the truck each time I need, or want, to drain the water is not my idea of convenient. My '83 6.9L had a tube from the seperator to the bottom of the truck. It was easy to see when I looked for it. So.... get a piece of fuel line long enough to go from the end of the drain pipe to the ground, I believe it is 3/8" I.D. fuel line but you may want to check it to be sure, a hose clamp, and a zip tie or two. Connect the new fuel line to the end of the drain pipe, clamp it on, slide it down to the bottom of the engine and zip tie it to the truck. Then cut it to a good length. Mine is zip tied just behind the front axle on the passenger side of the truck. Now I can simply turn the tires to the left, slide a coffee can or something under the fuel line, and drain the water from the seperator.

Admittedly, I can not see the bottom of the fuel line from the top of the engine bay. But I just drain it for as long as I think is good and let it be. It is not like the fuel bowl holds all that much water.

Good luck.

 

[jpciron]

Thank you Matt, yesterday I picked up all the things I thought it could be, Orings and a new valve from the dealer. It turned out to be something I created, I had installed a fuel pressure gauge on the back of the fuel bowl, it had a 90, a 4" piece of 1/4 pipe up,another 90 and a 2" gauge. I guess it was enough to crack the bowl from the motor shake or when I installed new injectors two weeks ago I may have knocked it . I tigged it shut and seems to be holding. I dont know if I trust it for a long road trip though, is there a place you can just buy the bowl itself.
Thank you all for the help on this truck.
Jason

 

[kwcat]

Can try ebay for a fuel bowl or maybe someone on here has one to sell.

 

[Matt0987]

Thank you Matt, yesterday I picked up all the things I thought it could be, Orings and a new valve from the dealer. It turned out to be something I created, I had installed a fuel pressure gauge on the back of the fuel bowl, it had a 90, a 4" piece of 1/4 pipe up,another 90 and a 2" gauge. I guess it was enough to crack the bowl from the motor shake or when I installed new injectors two weeks ago I may have knocked it . I tigged it shut and seems to be holding. I dont know if I trust it for a long road trip though, is there a place you can just buy the bowl itself.
Thank you all for the help on this truck.
Jason

Don't you just hate it when that happens. You think you are making an improvement and you make it worse. Been there. I think we all have, at one time or another.

If they are brass 90s then you may have simply threaded it in too far. As I recall, some brass connectors are slightly tapered from the bottom of the threads to the top of the threads.

I got my extra fuel bowl off ebay. I just kept an eye out for one and eventually one came up. I paid $75.00.

You might want to place a new thread on this site with a request for one.

 

[klhansen]

If you used a pipe fitting elbow in the bowl port, that's probably what did it, or the gauge hanging out there vibrating. The port on the bowl is straight threads, sealed by an o-ring, so screwing in a tapered thread fitting till it seals will overstress it.

 

[jpciron]

I used a # 8 boss (I belive)to adapt to the bowl. I think it had just finally had enough shaking, I am just happy it is starting and running again. I am going to search out a fuel bowl next week.
Thank you guys.
Jason