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Discussion Starter #1
Gents, I had a bad o-ring in the fuel filter heating element, I couldn't find the o ring locally so I tried the JB Weld method (twice), both times lead to an eventual slow leak.

My question is what are some good alternatives to this OEM fuel filter housing and heating element? Ebay OEM parts are ~$300 and I would rather not pay that for the same parts.

Truck:
1988 Ford F-250 7.3L



Thoughts?

-Kyle
 

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Did you ruin the filter head with the JB weld? If not I bought a new heating element from Ford for $120, opened the Ford box and the element was in an IH wrapper with the IH part number. Later phoned IH dealer and they sell it for $60. But that was about 6 years ago.
 

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Yes I did ruin it...I'm looking at other possible leak locations, the barbed hose fitting was a bit frayed so I shortened it. Others seemed to have had pretty solid luck with JB Weld so I counted on that being a pretty good solution.
 

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You might try Tousley Ford up in Minisota. That isn't their name any more, but a search with that name should still get you there. They have always had the really hard to find and obsolete parts, or at least could get them.
 

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For the next person, here are some options that I found outside of this forum.

1) Search ebay for "Powerstroke-7-3l-6-0l-6-4l-6-7l-Diesel-Fuel-Filter-Remote-Mount-
*this seems like a cheap options, but you loose the schrader valve

2) There are some other high end aftermarket options that I am not willing to pay for at this point.

3) convert over to a 6.9L fuel filter housing

4) Weld the hole shut

5) Plug the hole with a NPT plug

If I could do it over again I would try the plug first.

I am going to try and find a 6.9L filter housing and if I cant find one of those I will see about drilling out my JB Weld job and try getting someone else to weld it.

-Kyle
 

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Don't weld it, you can drill and tap for a 1/2" NPT. That heater is useless on less you have the key on for at least 5 minutes before starting to heat the fuel. Heating fuel from the top is about useless, by the time the heated fuel gets to the IP and thru all the lines to an injector, is it still warm. If you want to replace the whole unit I have two of them with Racor filters, $90 shipped. PM me if interested. I can delete and plug the heater.
 

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For the next person, here are some options that I found outside of this forum.

1) Search ebay for "Powerstroke-7-3l-6-0l-6-4l-6-7l-Diesel-Fuel-Filter-Remote-Mount-
*this seems like a cheap options, but you loose the schrader valve

2) There are some other high end aftermarket options that I am not willing to pay for at this point.

3) convert over to a 6.9L fuel filter housing

4) Weld the hole shut

5) Plug the hole with a NPT plug

If I could do it over again I would try the plug first.

I am going to try and find a 6.9L filter housing and if I cant find one of those I will see about drilling out my JB Weld job and try getting someone else to weld it.

-Kyle
Found some pics on the oilburners

This is what I have, it has the drain on the bottom.
 

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Hey I know this post is a little old, but I'm having the same issue so had a couple questions.

If the heating element is leaking would that be letting air into the lines cause me to have a hard time starting up in the mornings?

Also, how does the cap come off? Mine seems to wiggle,but I'm trying to avoid taking the whole housing off because this engine is in an Econoline and it's a real pain to move around under the hood. So I'm just trying to take the cap off and put some jb weld on there. Or if that ain't worth it I guess I could take it all out and tap it.

Mainly I wanna know if this could possibly be the cause of me having a hard time starting up
 

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It probably is the cause of air intrusion. If you can move the whole element it is probably time to either put a new o-ring in it, or tap it out for a 1/2" pipe plug. Be careful when you do that.
 
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