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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone have a diagram of exactly how the stock fuel filter housing works (what lines coming in are for and what and the little special fuel valve that a few of the vendors have designed exactly does on the top right that has two screws that hold it on)? I'm curious to what exactly that little valve or whatever it is does that is on the top right of the fuel fitler housing. Why do you have to have that special made fitting that ITP and Dieselsite have to make a true pressure gauge work or integrate a fuel system into it to work properly? Where does the fuel supply line coming from the tank go to on the housing? Where does the return line going back to the tank go (does it go back into the housing?)? Where do the fuel supply lines that go to the heads go to on the housing? I have an extra fuel filter housing sitting in front of me but not sure exactly what all the ports coming out of it are for.
 

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[ QUOTE ]
Does anyone have a diagram of exactly how the stock fuel filter housing works (what lines coming in are for and what and the little special fuel valve that a few of the vendors have designed exactly does on the top right that has two screws that hold it on)? I'm curious to what exactly that little valve or whatever it is does that is on the top right of the fuel fitler housing. Why do you have to have that special made fitting that ITP and Dieselsite have to make a true pressure gauge work or integrate a fuel system into it to work properly? Where does the fuel supply line coming from the tank go to on the housing? Where does the return line going back to the tank go (does it go back into the housing?)? Where do the fuel supply lines that go to the heads go to on the housing? I have an extra fuel filter housing sitting in front of me but not sure exactly what all the ports coming out of it are for.

[/ QUOTE ]

The Fuel return is the line you see on the top right of the housing. It is directly connected to the regulator thing you described.

The fuel supply is the line going into the same side of the housing but a few inches below the return line.

on the lower back side of the housing there are two lines that are the fuel feed line to each head.

there is also a plugged port on the right back side that you can remove and hook a fuel pressure guage to.

fuel pressure is maintained in the system by increasing or decreasing the spring pressure inside the regulator that the return line is hooked to.

Hammer
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Hammer;

Why do a couple of the vendors have to make those special fittings that connect to the regulator thingy? why couldn't you just remove the sping and the little cup that holds it (I just cleaned and completely dissasembled the extra fuel fitler housing that I have and completely took apart that factory regulator thing) and use a few different type of Aeroquip fittings to plumb in into a aftermarket regulator and then back to the return line?

There are two extra plugs, one is the one you described that is on the back of the housing and then there is one that connects to the fuel out ports that go to the heads. What is the extra plug for that connects to the ports that go to the heads for?

What is or where is the air bleed that I hear everyone talk about on the stock fuel filter housing?
 

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[ QUOTE ]
Why do a couple of the vendors have to make those special fittings that connect to the regulator thingy? why couldn't you just remove the sping and the little cup that holds it (I just cleaned and completely dissasembled the extra fuel fitler housing that I have and completely took apart that factory regulator thing) and use a few different type of Aeroquip fittings to plumb in into a aftermarket regulator and then back to the return line?

[/ QUOTE ]

ITP's regulated return kit fitting keeps the air bleed from the filter housing active (see below). With that kit, the fuel returns from the heads to the regulator, then back to the tank thru the fitting, where any air from the filter housing gets back to the tank.

You could replace the factory regulator with an aftermarket regulator, but you'd still have dead-end fuel rails in the heads. It would be a lot of work, and little if any benefit.


[ QUOTE ]
What is the extra plug for that connects to the ports that go to the heads for?

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/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif Connection to a third head? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Most likely just a plug needed to close a drilling port when they built the housing.


[ QUOTE ]
What is or where is the air bleed that I hear everyone talk about on the stock fuel filter housing?

[/ QUOTE ]

If you look at the top of the fuel filter, you should see a small hole in the top near the perimeter. Also if you look at the cap, you should see two small holes thru it near the top threads. Those holes allow air to get out of the cavity that would otherwise trap air above the bottom of the cap. I think that the regulator inlet port is in or near the threaded portion of the bowl that mates with the cap. The air goes out thru the holes and out the regulator inlet port and back to the fuel tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
klhansen;

I understand what you mean about still having a dead head system. I was refering to TheDieselsite's new adjustable regulator without the full regulated return and was also thinking about how to build my own full regulated return system as well. I know why Bob's adjustable regulator only is a little pricey (regulator, fuel lines and special fitting. That marine regulator is expensive all on it's own but very good quality) but was curious if I could build my own. My question was, could you leave the factory regulator there but without the spring and cup that holds the spring and then use some Aeroquip type fittings after the regulator that you could plumb an aftermarket regulator after the factory regulator and then use one of the ports on the aftermarket regulator to plumb the fuel return line back to the tank?
 

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I was looking into determining my electric pump pressure when I read in this thread about a plugged fitting someone was talking about on the filter housing. And it was mentioned that is where a gauge could be hooked up. What should the pressure read at this outlet?
Thanx Nick
 

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[ QUOTE ]
I was looking into determining my electric pump pressure when I read in this thread about a plugged fitting someone was talking about on the filter housing. And it was mentioned that is where a gauge could be hooked up. What should the pressure read at this outlet?
Thanx Nick

[/ QUOTE ]

Stock pressure is in the mid 50's if I remember correctly. Our stock injectors tend to like around 65-70 though.

Hammer
 

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I've seen mention of shimming the stock FPR for higher pressure, now I see why. Any links to the procedure?
Also I am working on bypassing my stock element by epoxying the pleats etc into a plug, I have shaved off the "groove" that houses the o ring on the element and I was hoping that would allow fuel to run up to where I thought it exits the filter. I plan on filling the element completly, I had thought about a tube through the filter to allow flow to the center but it seemed like the o ring removal would let fuel up too. Now you mention the function of the holes in the thread I'm questioning my logic. It seems like you understand the filter better than I do (not hard) do you see any flaws in this idea? I will be adding a remote filter. This is to reduce purge times in my svo conversion.
Thanks.
 
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