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I have a 1990 7.3 with leaking around the fuel heater and leaking air back into the system. I disassembled the unit and as another post suggested using a 114 o ring which according to my set measures 5/8 ID, 13/16 OD and 3/32 thick. This size was too big and would not fit back together. So I used a size down, 016 o ring 5/8 ID, 3/4 OD, and 1/16 thick. This size was too small and it slid right but doesn't seal. I read on one post of using a A018 o ring, but I have not been able to find that size. Does anyone know what the dimensions are of an A018 o ring are? Also is there a metric size that would work instead for making this repair? Looking for suggestions Thanks..:|
 

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When I did mine, I used a Vinton O ring, and using a bench grinders. made the outer surface square. Hasn't leaked since '08.
 

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I'm not sure I understand when you say you used a bench grinder to square it off. Are you talking about the o ring. You shaved off the outer part of the o-ring? And what size o-ring did you use?
 

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I don't remember what size I used, but yeah I squared off the outer edge. When I took my old one out it looked Ike it had a square profile not round.
 

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High quality lubricant and some force does wonders
 

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Yeah. I wasted a few O rings making it right.
 

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I used to reseal all types of dozer hyd rams, banks of control valves in graders, etc, and I'm sure not disagreeing with Chuckster, but most of the time the round O-rings get mis-shaped over time and are somewhat flattened with age. Any chance that's the case here, Chuck? My heater plastic terminal cracked with age so I replaced the complete ass'y about 6 years ago but I can't remember if it had quad rings (square sided) or regular O-rings.
 

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O ring may have been round, being installed for 24+ yrs may have made it look square. I know I couldn't get a round one in, but once I squared one or three off, I got it to fit snug.
 

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Just do away with the heater, there useless. Drill and tap the hole for a 1/2" NPT pipe plug.
 

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Useless till it gets cold out!
 

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O ring may have been round, being installed for 24+ yrs may have made it look square. I know I couldn't get a round one in, but once I squared one or three off, I got it to fit snug.
When this came up before I thought I saved my old leaking heater, but when I looked for it evidently I'd trashed it. And my O-rings weren't leaking, I could have measured them and maybe ID'd them.
 

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Useless till it gets cold out!
According to Fords manual, the key has to be left on for 5 minutes prior to starting to make the filter heater to heat the fuel enough to be effective, then key OFF then ON to cycle the glow plugs, then start.

Many many have deleted the heater as I've said for the reason the damn things leak and air intrusion.

Your truck, but do as you want.

The PSD's have the heater at the bottom of the fuel bowl, higher wattage, more effective.
 

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Found this on a different form go to IH and ask for part # 1811053C1 not sure what they run but I found 1 on Ebay for about $10.00. Kind of Pricey but beats $130 for a new Heater Assembly
 

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Found quite a few pics of it on Google going by that IH part number and it does appear to be a O-ring rather than a quad ring (square sided). Mine had a cracked plastic terminal due to age and heat and FYI I found out later the heater ass'y is 1/2 the price from IH truck dealership than from my friendly Ford dealer. It came in a typical FoMoCo blue/white box but was in an IH wrapper with the IH part number on the wrapper.
 

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Weird because all of the Pictures of the F2TZ9J294A Fuel heater show O-rings! That may have changed with later models. Where Ford had a better Idea and put the heater rear center of the engine.
 
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