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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1995 7.3l power stoke with turbo. I believe it's leaking at the banjo bolt but not 100% sure. I have a little pool of diesel right below it in the engine valley. Would that be causing the truck to cut out while driving? Is it a cheap and easy fix? Where else should I be looking for where the leak might be coming from? I've attached a couple photos. The first one is after I cleaned up the fuel. The second photo was taken after being ran for 15 minutes. Any help or suggestions is greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

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There is a weep hole on the fuel pump that is prone to leaking before the pump goes out, it you are having running problems then it may be the pump itself that is about to go out.

Depending on your mechanical ability the fuel pump is not too bad of a job to replace and when you are doing it the hoses from and two the filter housing should be replaced. It is also easier to take the filter housing out of the valley and if you do that you can also do a reseal job on it. There are a few O rings that should be replaced on it, but it isn't vital that you do that job.

For a fuel pump I would only use a genuine Mororcraft new one. There are a few vendors that sell them with Diesel O Rings being one of them. You can also get the hoses that attach to the filter housing also.

The hardest part of the job is getting to the banjo bolt which requires a 1 1/4" wrench. Some have taken one and bent it a little to help getting into the tight space. The factory manual says to pull the turbo but it can be done with the turbo in place. One other piece of advise if you do it is that once you have the pump bolts removed to turn the engine over by hand and let the fuel pump tappet raise the pump up off of its mount, this way you will not be like thousands of others that loose that tappet down into the oil pan.

Here is a link to a post that a member wrote up on the fuel pump replacement.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for all the info. I have to wait on fixing it until I get paid. I am able to get a socket on the banjo bolt with the turbo still in place. I just have to find an extension that will work. One nice thing about having small hands is that I can get into small spaces! Lol. I will post an update when done or if I have more questions. Thanks again
 

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I did mine with turbo in place.
Used a breaker bar and a ratchet. Of course took forever, but it worked.
Make sure you have all the Copper washer gaskets on the banjo also.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It seems like I'm leaking as much fuel as I was. I know I shouldn't be driving my truck with it leaking but it's my only way to and from work. I just filled up at Safeway and not Fred Meyers this time and it seem like its not leaking as much. Those are my only options on fuel cuz I don't have a card for the card lock stations. Would the fuel quality really have some thing to do with how much it's leaking? Could a rodent chew into a fuel line going from the pump to the fuel bowl? I found a nest under my fuel bowl and I think I got all of the nest cleaned out. My truck hasn't been sitting either so I don't know why there would be a nest there.
 

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Difference in stations, no.
Rat chew through the rubber lines, yes.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 
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The engine pitches back (lower aft) just a bit, so fuel where you see it in the valley could be from further forward. Get it as clean AND dry as you can, sprinkle baby powder (I used baking soda) all along the valley. Start and run briefly, rev up if necessary, and look for the stain in the powder. That will help locate the leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok so I cleaned up the engine valley and sprinkled baking soda and it looks like I have 2 leaks. One is on the front drivers side of the fuel bowl where it looks like a rodent had chewed on part of the line and the other is on the back side of the fuel bowl. I believe it's the fuel line going from the pump to the fuel bowl. Any help on how to fix would be great. Thanks
 

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Best option is just buying the precut hoses from ford.
But you can just get a good diesel rated hose and cut it to length.

Ford and (Motorcraft) numbers:

Black hose, 1 required:

F4TZ -9324-BA (KFL34)

Longer Blue hose, 1 required:

F4TZ -9324-CA (KFL33)

Shorter Blue hoses, 2 required:

F4TZ -9324-DA (KFL35)

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DieselORings will also have the hoses that you need and at times cheaper than the dealer. They are also a quick shipper.

Also since you have to loosen the filter housing to get all those hoses back on I would suggest their Fuel Bowl Reseal Kit. It comes with all the O rings that you are going to need. And if you don't want to do the whole reseal you should at least do the Fuel Drain Valve O rings while you have the housing actually off of the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Got some fuel hose I'm gonna have to cut myself and have ordered the fuel bowl reseal kit. Since I'm gonna have to pull all of that out, would it be a good idea to just go ahead and replace my fuel pump while I'm at it? I wish that someone around here had my reseal kit but they don't and I want to get my leak fixed. Today would be the perfect time for me to get it done but waiting on parts to get here.
 

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did you check the fuel bowl drain valve? It is prone to leaking.
 

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I think she ordered that already.
Another one is the restriction sensor. Those like to leak.

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I ordered my reseal kit for fuel bowl from diesel orings and it comes with the orings I need for the drain valve. Where is the restriction sensor located? What else should I check while I have it out?
 

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Where is the restriction sensor located?
On your '95, it's on the aft-facing side of the bowl. Looks kinda like an oil pressure sender. Pipe thread, I forget the size (1/4 NPT maybe?). If you're willing to check/replace your filter on your own, you can replace it with an NPT plumbing plug. The only impact is that the FUEL FILTER light will not come on.
 

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On your '95, it's on the aft-facing side of the bowl. Looks kinda like an oil pressure sender. Pipe thread, I forget the size (1/4 NPT maybe?). If you're willing to check/replace your filter on your own, you can replace it with an NPT plumbing plug. The only impact is that the FUEL FILTER light will not come on.
That's what I did.
Best to get at it while the bowl is out. Sometime in 95 or 96, they moved it to the FPR housing.
I wanna say 1/8 npt. But I'd have to double check.

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I replace my fuel filter about a month ago and that's when I really notice my fuel leak and haven't had the money to get all the parts I'm gonna need until now. Well I'm waiting on my orings to be delivered. I've never seen the fuel filter light come on in the 3 years I've been driving the truck. The only time I've drained the water out was when I changed my filter. I also didn't know I needed to do that until a few months ago. My dad finally gave me a good deal on buying the truck. I've been doing a lot of reading and learning a lot about diesel and want to get the truck back in tip top shape. I have a list of things I need to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Sorry it's taken so long to update. Man o man that was quiet a job resealing the fuel bowl and replacing fuel hoses. Got it all taken a part and had to order a few more parts before I was able to put it back together. Thought I had fixed my fuel leak, but i still have a leak. It's leaking from the banjo bolt. I just got my gaskets for the banjo bolt today. How hard of a job is this to do? Does anyone have a write up on it? Is there a way to remove the banjo bolt with out removing the turbo?
 

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To get the banjo bolt off without removing the turbo you will need a 1 1/4" wrench with a bend in the correct place to loosen the bolt. Then long skinny fingers help in removing and getting it back on.
 
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