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73 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Have a fuel leak only when it gets cold out figuring its the Seals on the fuel Bowl will know more when I get in there. How hard on the e350 is it to get to the fuel bowl?

182 Posts
I had to remove mine once, here is a list of all the tips & tricks I found, searching the forum years ago:

how to fix fuel leak

* Disconnect batteries
* Drain fuel bowl – if leaking really good this step may not be necessary
* Remove the air filter assembly
* Remove the intake hose between resonator and air filter
* Remove alternator
* Remove harness bracket attached to HP oil pump
* Remove fuel drain cable
* Remove the fuel filter
* Disconnect the fuel lines – it can be done …
* Remove the fuel bowl – bolted through the HP oil pump. The drain tube & electrical connectors can be disconnected once it is loose

No special tools are required, however, you will need new Vibra-Lok (Parker) seals. When disconnecting the fuel line these seals must be replaced. They are available from McMaster-Carr:

Size/Parker/McMaster Carr

Most of the work is done from the front except for removing the resonator.

You must be careful not to allow any debris into the fuel lines. I put some vinyl caps over mine.

Make sure your drain valve will not leak. You don’t want to go through this again! As I pointed out, my valve was leaking from a poorly injected molded plastic part – the white piece of plastic with the balls. There were parting lines on them that prevent the O-rings from making a good seal. If you get a new valve inspect it closely for this problem.

The new Vibra-Lok seals can be very difficult to install. The drain valve cable, drain tube and electrical connectors must be attached while reinstalling the fuel bowl – kind of tricky.

That’s my quick synopsis.


The "O" rings needed to repair the fuel drain valve can be purchased from Home Depot or any other hardware store. They are #90 "O" rings, 1/2 x 1/4 x 1/8.

1) get o-rings
2) drink beer
3) get air ratchet
4) drink beer
5) drain filter using valve
6) bzz zzt zzt zzt (remove screws all the way out with air ratchet)
7) pull valve body off drain hose
8) remove old o-rings with toothpick
9) remove yellow stuff from o-ring seats and ball with popsicle stick (sharpened)
10) drink beer (should have a straw on this thing!)
11) install new o-rings with a little lithium grease into seats.
12) install drain hose
13) put valve body into position with top lever in place before any screws are started
14) Place screws in valve body & start with fingers
15) bzz zzt zzt zzt (lightly turn all screws until valve is seated with air ratchet)
16) put T-20 Star on a manual ratchet & snug to comfort
17) remove tools and start truck
18) drink beer....clac clac clac clac clac with no fuel leak.
19) count left-over money
20) get another beer


Most likely it is not the yellow o-rings leaking, Using a T-15 or T20 not sure which socket attached to a 1/4" ratchet the valve is simple to remove but below the yellow handle you turn to drain is an o-ring also and is usually the one leaking. Disassembly is simple and any decent auto parts should be able to match the o-ring as i did on mine. I purchased a new valve from Ford just in case but the o-ring has held up for another filter change with no leaks it just seams that they dry out after awhile and when you use it they will leak because of tearing or something.
The new valve with all o-rings from the dealer was not that expensive here so it might be easier to just replace.

Hope we could help!


Most any decent hardware store carries the "O" rings you need. They are #90 "O" rings, dimensions 1/2 x 1/4 x 1/8.


I just did this over the weekend. There are 4 T20 Torx bit screws. The best way to remove them is with an air ratchet. The o-rings are #90. You should be able to find them at any decent hardware store.


Do not forget there is is a third o-ring inside the valve just below the yellow handle, This one will let it leak at the top of the valve. Mine did and had to disassemble the valve somewhat to change this one. Being on a Sunday I just had to find the best match at the parts house to get by and I later bought the assembly from the dealer but have not needed it yet.


1,805 Posts
tcnofh1 is right on. Only thing I would add, would be, get a large old rag to lay in valley around where your working to help catch any fallen tools of screws etc... If your not original owner, you might clean out in valley for some lost hidden treasure!
Also I'd be leery of o-rings from hardware unless your know of the composition. The ULSD fuel has been hard on o-rings and thus Ford has been trying different compounds from what I understand. This is why the o-rings in valve kits have different colors for identifications. I'm not sure of the latest color, but mine were purple about 3 years ago.
One addition thing, If your thinking of adding a fuel pressure gauge, on fuel bowl, now would be a good time.

182 Posts
Most of the leaks on my 7.3 were from that goofy water drain valve. Even a new replacement started leaking within a year.
Made a block-off plate, removed the thing. No leaks since. Installed a DAHL to catch the water.

dahl100filter copy

4,611 Posts
I have done a few fuel bowls, Diesel O-rings has all the parts in kits. Good price great service.
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