[Bruno2]

I have a 96 obs . I am putting in a fresh overhauled motor . I have a d-66 turbo 160cc stage II sticks . The fuel delivery is stock . How much of a gain from here will I get by going with a fass & swamps gen III hpop and a hotter IDM . I am ordering a wildman 4 pos chip . The extra fuel mods will be about $2000.00 in addition to what I have spent already . If the gain will not be substantial I want to know before I drop the money ?

Thanks
Brandon:

 

[Jcart]

Hey Bruno,

Presuming you have other supporting mods such as a downpipe, intake and gauges...and IC...yes??? Cant' speak for the upgrades you are intending (specifically as mine are a bit different) but am interested to see what responses you get. Thinking that yes you will need the oil and fuel to achieve the greatest benefits of the current mods you have. I can say with my DIY E-Fuel it was worth the effort and so was the 17 degree HPOP for my baby swamps 150cc with 146 nozzles. Runs smoother, pulls hard to redline...and the TW files are awesome.....with what you are proposing you should have a STRONG ride and yes the intended mods (fuel and oil) would be worth it imo...

jrc

jrc

 

[ammayernick]

Bruno,
I have the "hotter" IDM, Baby Swamps, CPR fuel system from Dieselsite, DP F-5 chip, and hpop. This thing runs and tows like a bear. Never been dynoed but always wonder how much hp it makes. I agree with JRC that some other mods need to be done first.

Andy

 

[Bruno2]

I am set up with a ton of supporting mods . 3 ' downpipe , 4 " straight pipe , K&N generation II intake , ARP headstuds , mainstuds , and competition 9:10 valve springs , Banks piping kit and a 7.3 CAC. My plan was to get up close to 500hp at the crank . I didnt go with the right inj's or turbo to achieve it . I dont plan on racing this thing at the track or sled pulling , but I have some six leakers and d-maxs that give me trouble all the time .

 

[Cratos]

My new fuel system
For the power wire (red 12 gauge wire) I used a 3/8 female connector to go in an open fuse slot in the main fuse box on the fender. Fished it out the box into black wire loom to a 30 amp breaker and relay, I mounted on the fender.

For the relay trigger wire, I taped into the #5 small fuse in the main fuse box (with #16 white wire) this is only hot in the on position.
fuel System - TheDieselStop.Com Photo Hosting

relay and braker mounted
fuel System - TheDieselStop.Com Photo Hosting

For the regulator I used 2 x 2 aluminum angle for the mount and mounted it to the bolt on top of the HPOP reservoir. And got two #4 90 deg fittings, for the return lines, Then a brass T so I could mount my fuel pressure sender, and still have the Schrader valve to check pressure up front when I need to.

fuel System - TheDieselStop.Com Photo Hosting

Now down to the pump.
I used a SD pump off e-may new for $ 92.00
and got the filter & head at NAPA
fuel System - TheDieselStop.Com Photo Hosting

top side done
fuel System - TheDieselStop.Com Photo Hosting

 

[Jcart]

I am set up with a ton of supporting mods . 3 ' downpipe , 4 " straight pipe , K&N generation II intake , ARP headstuds , mainstuds , and competition 9:10 valve springs , Banks piping kit and a 7.3 CAC. My plan was to get up close to 500hp at the crank . I didnt go with the right inj's or turbo to achieve it . I dont plan on racing this thing at the track or sled pulling , but I have some six leakers and d-maxs that give me trouble all the time .

Looks like you have a good handle on a stong runner Bruno and that is cool to see. I used to run a K&N on mine, IIRC it was a 7" by 9" round, with an outers prefilter on it. I felt I keep it clean however I noticed a small amount of fine dust residue in the intake piping and changed to a Donaldson paper element with no dust residue at all. NOT wanting to start a K&N versus other product just wanted to mention what I have experienced. I still run K&N on my ATV and think they are a fine filter, just on my truck it seems to pull so much air that the Donaldson seems to work better for me...

jrc