I have fuel in my valley, and looking at it, it looks like its leaking (spraying like) from under the pump itself. I tightened the banjo nut, and its not leaking from the single fuel line, or the 2 on top, could it be coming from the pump itself? If so where can I get one, and how expensive is the pump?
Fuel Pump Leak
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Joined
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4,580 Posts
There is a weep hole on the pump that will leak.. You should be able to get a replacement pump from any of the parts places Checker, Autozone, NAPA etc) It dont matter where you get it, it will be the same pump. Carter is the only one that makes one. They supplied the original and all the replacements. Prices should be under a hundred, mine was 79.00 a year and a half ago.
Joined
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4,580 Posts
This will help when you get ready to replace your leaker:
FUEL PUMP REPLACEMENT by Sam Miller
I recommend disconnecting batteries. There is no way to work around the glow plug relay without touching it. Then set up a parts tray, run a good light, throw a pad over the radiator and go for it.
Also, if you have a HPX crossover hose installed, it is easier if you disconnect it from the passenger side oil rail and tie it out of the way. Remove "Y" pipe (compressor manifold) from turbo, taking care not to lose the rubber O-ring inside the fitting (Marmon clamp). If you loosen only the lower clamps on the two silicone hoses the whole assembly can be removed easily and set aside. Cover the openings with rags or plastic wrap and secure with rubber bands.
Draining the fuel filter/water separator canister. You will want to either place a container under the vehicle to catch the diesel (a hose pushed on to the drain tube sure prevents a mess), or pump the canister dry once you get the filter out, in which case you won’t slide the yellow lever to "DRAIN." This is a good occasion to inspect and clean the interior of the canister, so removal of the filter and heater is advised. (Remember, the plastic heater standpipe is LEFT HAND THREADS.) A 7/8" crow’s foot wrench works best, but I have loosened it with a regular open-end wrench. Pull off the heater wire connector with needle-nose pliers. Now you can clean the canister and check for cracks or leaks. You’ll be amazed at the crud in there.
Disconnecting hoses. There are two hoses connected to the top of the pump and one at the bottom. The two top hoses are protected by a removable clip-on heat shield (just yank it off). You can only get to the clamp on the pump side of that bottom hose. And finally, the water drain hose at the front passenger side of the filter housing.
Remove the two bolts attaching the fuel pressure regulator with 10mm and carefully pry it back from the filter housing, taking care not to lose the O-ring. Good time to clean the screen and examine condition of O-ring. There is also a short section of 5/16" hose that may need to be replaced.
Separate the wire harness connector on the passenger side of canister and remove positioning clamp with 8mm. It will NOT slide off the tongue of the clamp as you think it might, since the tongue is barbed. (Remind you of anyone?)
Disconnect wires connected to the canister, two on drivers side, one at bottom rear. (So now you want to know what they are? Aw geez, you’re one of THOSE GUYS: Oh, all right: on the driver’s side, the top connector on the side of the Water Filter/Water Separator Assembly is the fuel heater connection; the connector directly beneath it links to the Water Sensor; and the connector on the bottom rear of the Assembly is for the filter restriction sensor. I believe it is a vacuum switch. Note: In 1996 the fuel filter restriction sensor was moved to the fuel pressure regulator, driver’s side of filter housing. Happy now?)
To continue: Two bolts holding down the filter canister are 13mm. You can lift the whole filter assembly up and forward out of the way with the long blue hose still connected at the bottom.
Getting the pump out is not difficult, using a 1 1/4 inch box end wrench, heated and bent to clear the turbo pedestal, while removing the large banjo bolt. You just have to be patient and content with getting only small incremental turns on it. It takes a while. The two metal ring-gaskets will sometimes remain stuck to the banjo fitting. You can remove them once the pump is out of the way. You do not have to remove or loosen the fuel supply tubes connected to the banjo fitting.
Remove the two 10 mm bolts holding down the pump and carefully remove the pump from the crankcase bore. It will take some twisting and pulling. Be careful here so as not to lose the tappet into the cam crankcase. That would not be good. Examine your new pump to see how the tappet connects. Eventually you'll be able to lift the pump straight up and out of the engine.
Cover or stuff a rag into the pump hole and it's a good time to clean the entire valley. Kind of like being on a treasure hunt, you'll be amazed at what you find down there; valve caps, wire ends, wedding rings, cat hair, baseball gloves, wrenches... It's a lot of fun getting back all your tools.
Check out the exterior of the fuel filter canister. Clean the three wire terminals, check for leaks or cracks and clean everything so if a leak shows up later you'll know exactly where it originates.
Time to put things back together. Remove the two metal banjo gaskets if you haven't already. You might need a knife blade to get them loose. Be sure the interior of the banjo fitting is clean and free of debris.
Hoses: I got 3/8 inch 400 psi fuel hose from NAPA by the foot (by the inch, actually) and simply cut new hoses to match the old ones, three altogether on the pump and a 5/16 inch hose on the regulator. I installed them at this point, along with the clamps. I recommend tightening the clamps just enough so they are "pre-positioned." When the time comes to give them a final set it makes it easier not to have to chase them around with two hands. (One exception: the hose clamp on the bottom of the filter assembly must be tightened completely. You just can’t get to it once everything else is in place.)
If nothing fell into the hole or onto the cam then lower the new pump. I use a little anti-seize on the housing, thinking it might make removal next time a little easier. Grease should already be on the O ring, but if not, I'd grease it. Tighten the bolts carefully and evenly to secure the pump. Make sure the pump does not get in a bind. Just tighten evenly and it should go into the bore ok, regardless of how the cam eccentric is positioned.
The hardest part of the whole operation, for me at least, was getting the banjo bolt restarted. You will quickly come to understand why the shop manual calls for removal of the turbo pedestal for this operation. (Plus, more shop time equals more money. duh!) You will wish you had a Dremel tool and could cut away some of the "webbing" between the legs of the pedestal. It’s a bit of a struggle, figuring out how to position your hands and fingers for the most efficient way to start that large bolt.
Slide one new metal gasket onto the bolt, insert it into the banjo housing and have the second gasket ready to slide into the slot on the interior side of the fitting as you push the bolt in. It may take a couple of attempts to get that second gasket onto the bolt. Just be sure it doesn’t slide on through the fitting and disappear on top of the manifold. Now you just have to carefully turn the bolt with some pressure behind it to "catch" the threads. Once it's started, then it is just a matter of wrenching it in, one tooth at a time. Here's where patience comes in again. Eventually you'll get it in. Then snug it down, recheck the pump hold down bolts for tightness and you're through the worst of it. Time for a congratulatory coffee break. Sometimes even an adult beverage is deservedly appropriate here…
Adjust all the hoses and be sure the clamps are on and positioned for easy access. (Once again, the lower hose will have to be clamped securely to the filter canister at this point since you won’t be able to reach it once the assembly is bolted down.) Lower the filter assembly back onto its pedestal, connecting the lower hose to the fuel pump as you go. Check that the wiring looms and connectors on both sides are positioned correctly. Adjust all three short hoses correctly and tighten the clamps. Remember to "aim" the clamps for easy access later, just in case there is a leak and you need to get to them with a screwdriver or ¼ inch socket. Don’t forget to reconnect the drain hose also. And CLOSE THE YELLOW WATER DRAIN LEVER.
Install the two 13mm bolts securing the filter housing (I use just a touch of anti-seize) and tighten. Plug in the three wire connectors to the canister and join the loom connectors on the passenger side. Reinstall the 8mm hold-down bracket. (or probably like most of us do, just wire-tie the connector to the GP loom).
Re-attach the FPR, being careful to install the O-ring. Tighten the two 10mm bolts evenly so the O-ring sets properly.
Reconnect HPX hose, the "Y" pipe (don’t forget the O-ring) and whatever else you might have removed or disconnected. It is a good time to also re-dry the manifold. Looking for leaks will be a lot easier if everything underneath starts out dry. A long screwdriver and some paper towels work great. Just be sure to get them all back out before you finish.
Check everything twice. Pry back up whatever wires and brackets and connectors and hoses you mashed by laying on them. If it all looks good, reconnect the batteries and you are ready to start.
I leave the heat shield covering the two tops hoses off at this point, just so I can look for leaks once things are up and running. Don’t forget to eventually snap it back on, cause there is a lot of heat back there and the hoses will definitely last longer.
A couple of notes here: If you shimmed the FPR, I would remove the shim at this point and start over with a stock set-up. Once you are up and running again, you can work the pressure back up towards the 70’s, using whatever shims work best.
A NOTE OF CAUTION: The FPR housing is very fragile. It is extremely easy to crack the housing by over tightening the Schrader valve or any fittings you might insert to accommodate a PSI gauge. BE VERY LIGHT ON THE TOUCH WHEN TIGHTENING ANYTHING INTO THE SCHRADER VALVE OPENING.
If everything is working ok, it should fire up within a few cranks. Thereafter, it takes a while to purge the air, usually a couple dozen miles of driving before things begin to settle back in to near normal.
WARNING: You will want to take a good light and look for leaks after the engine is running. BE CAREFUL. The fan and belt can change your nickname to Three-Fingered Jack in a heartbeat.
With any luck at all, you are dry as a bone and ready to roll. Check it again after your test-run.
Good luck,
Sam Miller
[email protected]
P.S. Feel free to email me with any suggestions, corrections or improvements to these instructions. Hopefully it will help a few other guys save a bunch of money by doing it themselves.
Part Numbers:
PUMP: (sometimes referred to as a Lift Pump)
Ford number: F6TZ-9350-A
International number: 1824415C92
Master number for NAPA, Shucks, AutoZone, etc.: 61067
Banjo Gaskets (metal washers, two required):
Ford number: F4TZ-9A375-A
International number: 1820650C1
Fuel line O-ring: (rear of head, passenger side; F4TZ-9A387-A
just back of intake on valley side
of head, driver's side)
Hoses:
Ford and (Motorcraft) numbers:
Black hose, 1 required: F4TZ-9324-BA (KFL34)
Longer Blue hose, 1 required: F4TZ-9324-CA (KFL33)
Shorter Blue hoses, 2 required: F4TZ-9324-DA (KFL35)
Hose information for DIY:
Rated at 400 psi and ok for diesel fuel:
3/8" hoses: 2 required 2 " (fuel tank to pump &
low pressure feed from filter to pump)
1 required 2 7/8" (fuel pump outlet to filter)
5/16" hoses: 1 required 1 ¾" (FPR tubing)
1 required 5" (if replacing drain hose)
Fuel Filter Heater: Ford F5TZ-9J294-A
International 1825186C91
External Connector F4TZ-9C065-A
Fuel Filter Lid – OEM International: 1825190C91
Crankcase Breather O-Rings:
Ford F4TZ-6769-A (small, seals screw head, 1/pack)
Ford F4TZ-6769-C (large, seals breather adapter to
International 1824452C2 valve cover, 2/pack)
International 1820784C2
Water Sensor Probe Ford# F4TZ-9S281-A
Fuel Filter Restriction Sensor: 1994/95-bottom of filter assembly; 1996/97-on fuel regulator.
Ford # E8TZ-9S283-A
International # 1809435C1
Fuel Pressure Regulator California Kit part number F6TZ-9K061-AA
FPR Spring International # 1825854C1 (CA)
FPR Screen International # 1823658C91
FPR Screen Ford # "Orifice Vent Kit" F5TZ-9A214-A
FPR Kit Ford # F6TZ-9157-BA
O-ring dimensions: Width: 1/16" Diameter: 9/16"
Turbo Y-Pipe O-Ring: Ford: F4TZ-9E436-A International: 1818372C1
Turbo Pedestal O-Rings: (between pedestal & block; pedestal & turbo)
Ford: F4TZ-6N653-A & F4TZ-6N653-B
Turbo Exhaust Up-Pipes: Ford: F4TZ-6K854-A (Driver side)
Ford: F6TZ-6K854-A (Passenger side)
Turbo Exhaust Collector Donut: (Top of each manifold to turbo up-pipe)
Ford: F4TZ-6K854-C
Oil Gallery Plug: International: 1822607C91 (O-Ring not sold separately)
IPR O-Ring Kit:
Ford: F6TZ-9C977-AN
International: 1825806C92
FUEL PUMP OPERATION
Fuel is drawn from the fuel tank by the diaphragm section of the fuel pump (top hose-driver’s side). The fuel pump circulates fuel at low pressure (approximately 3 to 10 psi), first through the fuel filter (top hose-passenger side) and then back to the second stage of the fuel pump (bottom hose from filter to pump).
During the second stage, the piston-actuated section of the fuel pump supplies fuel at a pressure of approximately 40 psi into the cylinder head fuel galleries.
FUEL PUMP REPLACEMENT by Sam Miller
I recommend disconnecting batteries. There is no way to work around the glow plug relay without touching it. Then set up a parts tray, run a good light, throw a pad over the radiator and go for it.
Also, if you have a HPX crossover hose installed, it is easier if you disconnect it from the passenger side oil rail and tie it out of the way. Remove "Y" pipe (compressor manifold) from turbo, taking care not to lose the rubber O-ring inside the fitting (Marmon clamp). If you loosen only the lower clamps on the two silicone hoses the whole assembly can be removed easily and set aside. Cover the openings with rags or plastic wrap and secure with rubber bands.
Draining the fuel filter/water separator canister. You will want to either place a container under the vehicle to catch the diesel (a hose pushed on to the drain tube sure prevents a mess), or pump the canister dry once you get the filter out, in which case you won’t slide the yellow lever to "DRAIN." This is a good occasion to inspect and clean the interior of the canister, so removal of the filter and heater is advised. (Remember, the plastic heater standpipe is LEFT HAND THREADS.) A 7/8" crow’s foot wrench works best, but I have loosened it with a regular open-end wrench. Pull off the heater wire connector with needle-nose pliers. Now you can clean the canister and check for cracks or leaks. You’ll be amazed at the crud in there.
Disconnecting hoses. There are two hoses connected to the top of the pump and one at the bottom. The two top hoses are protected by a removable clip-on heat shield (just yank it off). You can only get to the clamp on the pump side of that bottom hose. And finally, the water drain hose at the front passenger side of the filter housing.
Remove the two bolts attaching the fuel pressure regulator with 10mm and carefully pry it back from the filter housing, taking care not to lose the O-ring. Good time to clean the screen and examine condition of O-ring. There is also a short section of 5/16" hose that may need to be replaced.
Separate the wire harness connector on the passenger side of canister and remove positioning clamp with 8mm. It will NOT slide off the tongue of the clamp as you think it might, since the tongue is barbed. (Remind you of anyone?)
Disconnect wires connected to the canister, two on drivers side, one at bottom rear. (So now you want to know what they are? Aw geez, you’re one of THOSE GUYS: Oh, all right: on the driver’s side, the top connector on the side of the Water Filter/Water Separator Assembly is the fuel heater connection; the connector directly beneath it links to the Water Sensor; and the connector on the bottom rear of the Assembly is for the filter restriction sensor. I believe it is a vacuum switch. Note: In 1996 the fuel filter restriction sensor was moved to the fuel pressure regulator, driver’s side of filter housing. Happy now?)
To continue: Two bolts holding down the filter canister are 13mm. You can lift the whole filter assembly up and forward out of the way with the long blue hose still connected at the bottom.
Getting the pump out is not difficult, using a 1 1/4 inch box end wrench, heated and bent to clear the turbo pedestal, while removing the large banjo bolt. You just have to be patient and content with getting only small incremental turns on it. It takes a while. The two metal ring-gaskets will sometimes remain stuck to the banjo fitting. You can remove them once the pump is out of the way. You do not have to remove or loosen the fuel supply tubes connected to the banjo fitting.
Remove the two 10 mm bolts holding down the pump and carefully remove the pump from the crankcase bore. It will take some twisting and pulling. Be careful here so as not to lose the tappet into the cam crankcase. That would not be good. Examine your new pump to see how the tappet connects. Eventually you'll be able to lift the pump straight up and out of the engine.
Cover or stuff a rag into the pump hole and it's a good time to clean the entire valley. Kind of like being on a treasure hunt, you'll be amazed at what you find down there; valve caps, wire ends, wedding rings, cat hair, baseball gloves, wrenches... It's a lot of fun getting back all your tools.
Check out the exterior of the fuel filter canister. Clean the three wire terminals, check for leaks or cracks and clean everything so if a leak shows up later you'll know exactly where it originates.
Time to put things back together. Remove the two metal banjo gaskets if you haven't already. You might need a knife blade to get them loose. Be sure the interior of the banjo fitting is clean and free of debris.
Hoses: I got 3/8 inch 400 psi fuel hose from NAPA by the foot (by the inch, actually) and simply cut new hoses to match the old ones, three altogether on the pump and a 5/16 inch hose on the regulator. I installed them at this point, along with the clamps. I recommend tightening the clamps just enough so they are "pre-positioned." When the time comes to give them a final set it makes it easier not to have to chase them around with two hands. (One exception: the hose clamp on the bottom of the filter assembly must be tightened completely. You just can’t get to it once everything else is in place.)
If nothing fell into the hole or onto the cam then lower the new pump. I use a little anti-seize on the housing, thinking it might make removal next time a little easier. Grease should already be on the O ring, but if not, I'd grease it. Tighten the bolts carefully and evenly to secure the pump. Make sure the pump does not get in a bind. Just tighten evenly and it should go into the bore ok, regardless of how the cam eccentric is positioned.
The hardest part of the whole operation, for me at least, was getting the banjo bolt restarted. You will quickly come to understand why the shop manual calls for removal of the turbo pedestal for this operation. (Plus, more shop time equals more money. duh!) You will wish you had a Dremel tool and could cut away some of the "webbing" between the legs of the pedestal. It’s a bit of a struggle, figuring out how to position your hands and fingers for the most efficient way to start that large bolt.
Slide one new metal gasket onto the bolt, insert it into the banjo housing and have the second gasket ready to slide into the slot on the interior side of the fitting as you push the bolt in. It may take a couple of attempts to get that second gasket onto the bolt. Just be sure it doesn’t slide on through the fitting and disappear on top of the manifold. Now you just have to carefully turn the bolt with some pressure behind it to "catch" the threads. Once it's started, then it is just a matter of wrenching it in, one tooth at a time. Here's where patience comes in again. Eventually you'll get it in. Then snug it down, recheck the pump hold down bolts for tightness and you're through the worst of it. Time for a congratulatory coffee break. Sometimes even an adult beverage is deservedly appropriate here…
Adjust all the hoses and be sure the clamps are on and positioned for easy access. (Once again, the lower hose will have to be clamped securely to the filter canister at this point since you won’t be able to reach it once the assembly is bolted down.) Lower the filter assembly back onto its pedestal, connecting the lower hose to the fuel pump as you go. Check that the wiring looms and connectors on both sides are positioned correctly. Adjust all three short hoses correctly and tighten the clamps. Remember to "aim" the clamps for easy access later, just in case there is a leak and you need to get to them with a screwdriver or ¼ inch socket. Don’t forget to reconnect the drain hose also. And CLOSE THE YELLOW WATER DRAIN LEVER.
Install the two 13mm bolts securing the filter housing (I use just a touch of anti-seize) and tighten. Plug in the three wire connectors to the canister and join the loom connectors on the passenger side. Reinstall the 8mm hold-down bracket. (or probably like most of us do, just wire-tie the connector to the GP loom).
Re-attach the FPR, being careful to install the O-ring. Tighten the two 10mm bolts evenly so the O-ring sets properly.
Reconnect HPX hose, the "Y" pipe (don’t forget the O-ring) and whatever else you might have removed or disconnected. It is a good time to also re-dry the manifold. Looking for leaks will be a lot easier if everything underneath starts out dry. A long screwdriver and some paper towels work great. Just be sure to get them all back out before you finish.
Check everything twice. Pry back up whatever wires and brackets and connectors and hoses you mashed by laying on them. If it all looks good, reconnect the batteries and you are ready to start.
I leave the heat shield covering the two tops hoses off at this point, just so I can look for leaks once things are up and running. Don’t forget to eventually snap it back on, cause there is a lot of heat back there and the hoses will definitely last longer.
A couple of notes here: If you shimmed the FPR, I would remove the shim at this point and start over with a stock set-up. Once you are up and running again, you can work the pressure back up towards the 70’s, using whatever shims work best.
A NOTE OF CAUTION: The FPR housing is very fragile. It is extremely easy to crack the housing by over tightening the Schrader valve or any fittings you might insert to accommodate a PSI gauge. BE VERY LIGHT ON THE TOUCH WHEN TIGHTENING ANYTHING INTO THE SCHRADER VALVE OPENING.
If everything is working ok, it should fire up within a few cranks. Thereafter, it takes a while to purge the air, usually a couple dozen miles of driving before things begin to settle back in to near normal.
WARNING: You will want to take a good light and look for leaks after the engine is running. BE CAREFUL. The fan and belt can change your nickname to Three-Fingered Jack in a heartbeat.
With any luck at all, you are dry as a bone and ready to roll. Check it again after your test-run.
Good luck,
Sam Miller
[email protected]
P.S. Feel free to email me with any suggestions, corrections or improvements to these instructions. Hopefully it will help a few other guys save a bunch of money by doing it themselves.
Part Numbers:
PUMP: (sometimes referred to as a Lift Pump)
Ford number: F6TZ-9350-A
International number: 1824415C92
Master number for NAPA, Shucks, AutoZone, etc.: 61067
Banjo Gaskets (metal washers, two required):
Ford number: F4TZ-9A375-A
International number: 1820650C1
Fuel line O-ring: (rear of head, passenger side; F4TZ-9A387-A
just back of intake on valley side
of head, driver's side)
Hoses:
Ford and (Motorcraft) numbers:
Black hose, 1 required: F4TZ-9324-BA (KFL34)
Longer Blue hose, 1 required: F4TZ-9324-CA (KFL33)
Shorter Blue hoses, 2 required: F4TZ-9324-DA (KFL35)
Hose information for DIY:
Rated at 400 psi and ok for diesel fuel:
3/8" hoses: 2 required 2 " (fuel tank to pump &
low pressure feed from filter to pump)
1 required 2 7/8" (fuel pump outlet to filter)
5/16" hoses: 1 required 1 ¾" (FPR tubing)
1 required 5" (if replacing drain hose)
Fuel Filter Heater: Ford F5TZ-9J294-A
International 1825186C91
External Connector F4TZ-9C065-A
Fuel Filter Lid – OEM International: 1825190C91
Crankcase Breather O-Rings:
Ford F4TZ-6769-A (small, seals screw head, 1/pack)
Ford F4TZ-6769-C (large, seals breather adapter to
International 1824452C2 valve cover, 2/pack)
International 1820784C2
Water Sensor Probe Ford# F4TZ-9S281-A
Fuel Filter Restriction Sensor: 1994/95-bottom of filter assembly; 1996/97-on fuel regulator.
Ford # E8TZ-9S283-A
International # 1809435C1
Fuel Pressure Regulator California Kit part number F6TZ-9K061-AA
FPR Spring International # 1825854C1 (CA)
FPR Screen International # 1823658C91
FPR Screen Ford # "Orifice Vent Kit" F5TZ-9A214-A
FPR Kit Ford # F6TZ-9157-BA
O-ring dimensions: Width: 1/16" Diameter: 9/16"
Turbo Y-Pipe O-Ring: Ford: F4TZ-9E436-A International: 1818372C1
Turbo Pedestal O-Rings: (between pedestal & block; pedestal & turbo)
Ford: F4TZ-6N653-A & F4TZ-6N653-B
Turbo Exhaust Up-Pipes: Ford: F4TZ-6K854-A (Driver side)
Ford: F6TZ-6K854-A (Passenger side)
Turbo Exhaust Collector Donut: (Top of each manifold to turbo up-pipe)
Ford: F4TZ-6K854-C
Oil Gallery Plug: International: 1822607C91 (O-Ring not sold separately)
IPR O-Ring Kit:
Ford: F6TZ-9C977-AN
International: 1825806C92
FUEL PUMP OPERATION
Fuel is drawn from the fuel tank by the diaphragm section of the fuel pump (top hose-driver’s side). The fuel pump circulates fuel at low pressure (approximately 3 to 10 psi), first through the fuel filter (top hose-passenger side) and then back to the second stage of the fuel pump (bottom hose from filter to pump).
During the second stage, the piston-actuated section of the fuel pump supplies fuel at a pressure of approximately 40 psi into the cylinder head fuel galleries.
I had bought all new hoses so I just cut them off. They are so short
that pulling them off would require removing the FP and/or FF housing.
I had trouble getting one of the driver's side eletrical connectors
off so, I didn't. I was more concerned about breaking something. Check the housing and clean it out while you're in there. Many have
had leaks in the housing due to corrosion. It could also be
any of the hoses. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
that pulling them off would require removing the FP and/or FF housing.
I had trouble getting one of the driver's side eletrical connectors
off so, I didn't. I was more concerned about breaking something. Check the housing and clean it out while you're in there. Many have
had leaks in the housing due to corrosion. It could also be
any of the hoses. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
[ QUOTE ]
I had bought all new hoses so I just cut them off. They are so short
that pulling them off would require removing the FP and/or FF housing.
I had trouble getting one of the driver's side eletrical connectors
off so, I didn't. I was more concerned about breaking something. Check the housing and clean it out while you're in there. Many have
had leaks in the housing due to corrosion. It could also be
any of the hoses. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
[/ QUOTE ]
I'm pretty sure its coming out of the pump, I looked closely at the single fuel line that comes out of the pump, closest to the valley, nothing leaking there, but about 1-1.5"s back on the left side, looking down on the pump, I see fluid leaking down. So if I cut and replace the lines, I don't have to pull the FF?
I had bought all new hoses so I just cut them off. They are so short
that pulling them off would require removing the FP and/or FF housing.
I had trouble getting one of the driver's side eletrical connectors
off so, I didn't. I was more concerned about breaking something. Check the housing and clean it out while you're in there. Many have
had leaks in the housing due to corrosion. It could also be
any of the hoses. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
[/ QUOTE ]
I'm pretty sure its coming out of the pump, I looked closely at the single fuel line that comes out of the pump, closest to the valley, nothing leaking there, but about 1-1.5"s back on the left side, looking down on the pump, I see fluid leaking down. So if I cut and replace the lines, I don't have to pull the FF?
It just made it easier to get things out. Getting new hoses back on
was a treat. I would at least take the mounting bolts out of
the FF canister to be able to move it around. The hoses are snug
and the one under the canister is tightened before mounting in
back. It's tough to get to after the canister is bolted down.
was a treat. I would at least take the mounting bolts out of
the FF canister to be able to move it around. The hoses are snug
and the one under the canister is tightened before mounting in
back. It's tough to get to after the canister is bolted down.
Joined
·
323 Posts
I just did mine this weekend. A few points I can add to Sam's helpful directions:
I have the HPX crossover hose, and didn't find the need to remove it to have room to work. Although, upon reinstallation, I did remove the rear motor hoist point in order to fit my hand under the turbo.
I did not see the need to remove the FPR from the fuel filter canister. I removed it, following the directions, but immediately put it right back on. I did the same with the wire connections on the bowl - no need to remove them. You can move the bowl around just fine - I zip-tied mine forward, out of the way as much as possible.
The wiring harnes on the passenger side of the bowl - mine was attached with a phillips head screw, not a 8mm bolt.
The bolts holding my fuel bowl and fuel pump in, where EXTREMEMLY TIGHT. I used a 1/2 breaker bar with A LOT of force to remove them. Once they broke free, they came out easily. I put antisieze on them before reinstalling!!
I didn't have a 1 1/4" end wrench, but I did have a socket in that size. So I got inventive. I used the 1/2" socket, followed by a reducer to 3/8", then a wobbly, then two extensions, then a flexible 3/8" ratchet!!! Here is a picture of my set up:
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c307/1996cc/Ford/ATT02427.jpg
I had to feed the extension/socket assembly in from under the turbo, then the ratchet behind the turbo and downpipe, then connect them once in place. Once it was all hooked up, it was quick and easy to loosen, then retighten the banjo fitting.
I also left the heat shield off the hoses. I don't run the pretty engine cover, and left this off also. My feeling is the most heat will be coming UP from the motor, and would just get trapped under the sheild, heating the fuel.
I got my pump at Napa = $105.xx I tried International, but they wanted $169. I told them that was crazy and stated Napa's price. He said, "not to throw stones, but consider what you're buying." I said, "I did, they are all made by Carter - even the OE ones." He didn't have a response. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I also replaced the two orange y-pipe hoses. International wanted $22 - each! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif Plus they would have had to order them. I went to my local industrial hose shop and bought a foot (shortest they would sell, but they had a 15" section, so I got it for the price of 12") of 2" silicone hose for $14! Plus it's "blingin' BLUE"!!
Hope this helps those who do it in the future. All told, it probably took me about 4 hours start to finish.
I have the HPX crossover hose, and didn't find the need to remove it to have room to work. Although, upon reinstallation, I did remove the rear motor hoist point in order to fit my hand under the turbo.
I did not see the need to remove the FPR from the fuel filter canister. I removed it, following the directions, but immediately put it right back on. I did the same with the wire connections on the bowl - no need to remove them. You can move the bowl around just fine - I zip-tied mine forward, out of the way as much as possible.
The wiring harnes on the passenger side of the bowl - mine was attached with a phillips head screw, not a 8mm bolt.
The bolts holding my fuel bowl and fuel pump in, where EXTREMEMLY TIGHT. I used a 1/2 breaker bar with A LOT of force to remove them. Once they broke free, they came out easily. I put antisieze on them before reinstalling!!
I didn't have a 1 1/4" end wrench, but I did have a socket in that size. So I got inventive. I used the 1/2" socket, followed by a reducer to 3/8", then a wobbly, then two extensions, then a flexible 3/8" ratchet!!! Here is a picture of my set up:
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c307/1996cc/Ford/ATT02427.jpg
I had to feed the extension/socket assembly in from under the turbo, then the ratchet behind the turbo and downpipe, then connect them once in place. Once it was all hooked up, it was quick and easy to loosen, then retighten the banjo fitting.
I also left the heat shield off the hoses. I don't run the pretty engine cover, and left this off also. My feeling is the most heat will be coming UP from the motor, and would just get trapped under the sheild, heating the fuel.
I got my pump at Napa = $105.xx I tried International, but they wanted $169. I told them that was crazy and stated Napa's price. He said, "not to throw stones, but consider what you're buying." I said, "I did, they are all made by Carter - even the OE ones." He didn't have a response. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I also replaced the two orange y-pipe hoses. International wanted $22 - each! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif Plus they would have had to order them. I went to my local industrial hose shop and bought a foot (shortest they would sell, but they had a 15" section, so I got it for the price of 12") of 2" silicone hose for $14! Plus it's "blingin' BLUE"!!
Hope this helps those who do it in the future. All told, it probably took me about 4 hours start to finish.
Hey thanks for all the great information. I have a 97 F250HD Turbo Diesel Ext cab, long bed with 150,000 on it. it ran strong with few problems till a month ago. Started smelling fuel after shuting off the engine. A few hard starts, and then one day nothing. Traced it back to the leacking fuel pump. So i will be replacing mine this weekend. I did not read anything about PRIMMING the pump. If i drain the fuel from the filter and replace the pump. Does it need to be primed. And if so just how? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
Thanks.
Hey thanks for the heads up 1996CC on the Flexible rachet set up.
Thanks.
Hey thanks for the heads up 1996CC on the Flexible rachet set up.
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228 Posts
after replacing my pump, the truck seemed to start right up and ran fine. and i drain all the fuel from my filter bowl every time i change the filter and without priming it fires right up. i think there is a schrader valve on the filter housing for priming though, if you need it.
Joined
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1,498 Posts
[ QUOTE ]
Thanks so much for the info. Now if I just don't loose the tappet down the hole!!
Its probably so, but you have to remove the filter housing, to get the pump out?
[/ QUOTE ]
No, if you take the y pipe of the engine you can get right at it, but I can pull the fuel bowl in about 10 minutes so I do anyway just to get it out of the way. If you are replacing the blue hoses ( have to get em from FORD), or just use diesel rated fuel line, you will have to pull the bowl to get to the clamp on the bottom.
Its impossible to loose the tappet if you do this...
Take off the banjo bolt and the hoses and loosen the bolts, then turn the engine over with a ratchet until the camshaft lobe pushes it out, if the lobe is up the pushrod cannot fall through, there isn't room. It will probably stay in the bottom of the pump anyway though.
Thanks so much for the info. Now if I just don't loose the tappet down the hole!!
Its probably so, but you have to remove the filter housing, to get the pump out?
[/ QUOTE ]
No, if you take the y pipe of the engine you can get right at it, but I can pull the fuel bowl in about 10 minutes so I do anyway just to get it out of the way. If you are replacing the blue hoses ( have to get em from FORD), or just use diesel rated fuel line, you will have to pull the bowl to get to the clamp on the bottom.
Its impossible to loose the tappet if you do this...
Take off the banjo bolt and the hoses and loosen the bolts, then turn the engine over with a ratchet until the camshaft lobe pushes it out, if the lobe is up the pushrod cannot fall through, there isn't room. It will probably stay in the bottom of the pump anyway though.
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375 Posts
I had to replace mine two weeks ago, and if not for the help from folks here, it would have cost me 600.00 for a shop to do it. It took me about 5 hours for my first one, and it was not the most fun I have had on a Saturday!!!! I know now why shops charge so much. The bango bolt can be tricky, and it must have weeping for awhile before I bought it cause the idiot I got it from has used some sort of glue or sealer that had to be cut away from the bango bolt before I could even start the project. I am all for ******* Engineerin', but this one was dumb as I have ever seen!!! If not for that point it would have taken less than 2 hours most likely. Colin /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif
I have the same problem except the STEALERSHIP wants $845.00 to replace. Needless to say, I will be picking it up today. However, I am concerned about loosing the tappet. What does it look like? Also, it looks like I need the two gaskets for the banjo nut, the new fuel pump, & what other items do I need???
Joined
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135 Posts
I was worried about losing the tappet when I replaced my pump last year. I think as long as you don't bang the pump around a bunch when removing it, you don't have anything to worry about. The tappet is in the pump fairly snug. It's easy to pull out with you fingers, but I don't imagine it'd be likely to just fall out by its own weight.
johndeerebones's idea above for turning the engine over by hand and letting the cam push the pump up sounds good too.
johndeerebones's idea above for turning the engine over by hand and letting the cam push the pump up sounds good too.
Another tip for the banjo nut....If you have access to a gas axe,oxy set,hot spanner!!!!! I bent my spanner with a tight goose neck and it fitted on the banjo nut real easy.
Also I put a post on the aftermarket page RE your starter. My pump was leaking for a while (didnt have a clue until I found this great site) I was have trouble starting and found it was the starter gummed up with diesel and dust mix. Cleaned it up and it starts better than new now. Hope this makes the job a bit easier.
AL from OZ
Also I put a post on the aftermarket page RE your starter. My pump was leaking for a while (didnt have a clue until I found this great site) I was have trouble starting and found it was the starter gummed up with diesel and dust mix. Cleaned it up and it starts better than new now. Hope this makes the job a bit easier.
AL from OZ
Joined
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135 Posts
I got a set of combo wrenches from Harbor Freight for $20 that included the 1-1/4". That was cheaper than just buying that one wrench anywhere else in town.
I was gonna heat it up and bend it, but found I didn't need to. It fit right in there on the banjo nut without a problem.
I was gonna heat it up and bend it, but found I didn't need to. It fit right in there on the banjo nut without a problem.
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