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Discussion Starter #1
I have been having issues with alternators and batteries and the whole charging system on my '00 7.3. I have determined that one of the fusible links on the alternator cable where it connects to the solenoid has "popped" Without access to a dealer and no way to wait days to receive one in the mail, can I cut the wire, solder on a ring terminal, and reconnect it to the solenoid so I can keep using the truck? Or will this cause potential problems because the "fuse" is now bypassed? I have replaced both batteries 3 weeks ago, replaced the alternator 3 weeks ago, and replaced the alternator again today. I am now charging each battery seperately and am trying to determine how to "fix" the fusible link issue, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Tim
 

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Any good auto parts stores sell fusible link wire that you can replace it with. You will need 12 gage fusible link wire.
FMT
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What harm will come with putting a ring terminal on for the time being? This is my only vehicle so getting to ANY auto parts store right now is a challenge! It appears there are two links, only one is "blown" how are they attached soldered, butt terminals?

Thanks, Tim
 

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There is a reason that fusible link blew and eliminating it may cause the harness to burn up. If it's a short term thing to get the parts store you can try it but you may cause more damage than you already have.
FMT
 
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Discussion Starter #5
I have the parts in front of me to do the temp. fix, but hesitated for that reason. Any ideas as to why the link may have blown? Haven't done anything different or made any changes to the truck except replaced the rear leaf springs on Saturday which I highly doubt could have done anything to effect this.

Thanks, Tim
 

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Check the large wire coming off the alternator that goes to the fender mounted starter solenoid for shorts to ground. It's possible the alternator put out too many amps and it blew it that way especially if the battery's were run down real low.
FMT
 

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Exactly as FMT said, there is a reason the fusible link burnt up. If you bypass this by hooking it up direct, then the whole harness may burn up. If you cannot get a fusible link, use a inline fuse holder. You can get them at Walmart or any autoparts store. Just make sure you get a large enough fuse (40-60 amp range).

How exactly do you know the fusible link burnt up?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I followed the wire from the alternator to the solenoid, and it splits into two fusible links right before the solenoid. One of the links is clearly "blown" as the wire is exposed through the shrink wrap and slightly melted on the exposed ends. I do not know what has caused it. I have a inline fuse I can install. My charts recommend a 20amp fuse when a 12awg fusible link is called for. Where did you find that a 40-60amp fuse would be correct?



Thanks, Tim
 

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I was just figuring what a stock alternator puts out (around 95 amps). If you have an inline fuse that is rated for 20amps, then I would use that until you can get it fixed correctly. I don't see how a 20 amp fuse would hold up if you have a stock alternator putting out 95-105 amps but who knows. I don't know exactly how the fusible links work. You do need to install something to protect the wire from completely burning up. These engines vibrate/ shake a lot. I have found both intercooler pipes to be worn where wire loomed layed across them and my negative cable on my drivers side battery to be worn through to the copper wire. Your power wire coming from the alternator (the wire that has the fusible links) could be worn somewhere and this is what possibly caused the link to blow.

Also, please stop starting so many posts concerning the same problem. It makes it a little confusing.
 

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Didn't mean to sound like an A$$, sorry. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif I was going to reply to your other post and then read this one as well. The other post makes it seem that you have not found the problem yet (I was going to sugguest in your other post that you check the fusible links) and you have.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the information and help, hopefully I can get it all straightened out tomorrow. Good Night!

Thanks, Tim
 

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the alternator is not Supposed to put out more amps then the fusible link can take.

my guess is that your alternator actually had an internal short, and the batteries backfed into the alternator, and fried the fusible link.

Of course, you could also have a bare wire rubbing against the block intermittently causing all of your problems.

If you replace the fusible link with a regular wire, adn it is a bare wire, you risk burning your truck to the ground with an electrical fire, or frying your wiring harness.

Just thoughts! Myself, I'd call a cab and go get 3 or 5 links. Or, another option, charge the batteries, and drive to the store with out fixing teh fusible link - in other words, run it off the batteries.

NOt good on things, but better then torching it.
 

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I was just figuring what a stock alternator puts out (around 95 amps). If you have an inline fuse that is rated for 20amps, then I would use that until you can get it fixed correctly. I don't see how a 20 amp fuse would hold up if you have a stock alternator putting out 95-105 amps but who knows. I don't know exactly how the fusible links work. You do need to install something to protect the wire from completely burning up. These engines vibrate/ shake a lot. I have found both intercooler pipes to be worn where wire loomed layed across them and my negative cable on my drivers side battery to be worn through to the copper wire. Your power wire coming from the alternator (the wire that has the fusible links) could be worn somewhere and this is what possibly caused the link to blow.

Also, please stop starting so many posts concerning the same problem. It makes it a little confusing.
I know this is an old thread but I have been having the same problem on my 2000 F250 7.3l 4x4 and haven't found a solution on any forums so I thought I'd share my experience. I spent 5 days trying to figure this out tracing wires, changed my alternator and 2 batteries, alternator plug, starter relay, and checked all of my grounds. I couldn't find anything wrong. I decided to change my air intake heater relay. It must have been shorting out because after I changed it I was able to hook my wires backup to the relay without them getting hot and my alternator is charging my batteries again. Hope this helps someone.
 
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