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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1997 F350 7.3 with Dual fuel tanks. Is there a way to get the fuel gauge to stop going the E everytime you make a quick or sharp turn and the fuel moves in the tanks? It isn't really a big problem, just extremely annoying!
 

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I would say you are lucky that the gauge returns to the actual reading. When my gauges started fluctuating like that - it wasn't long before they went to the Empty reading - and now they stay there all the time - no matter what. I haven't gotten around to changing them out yet.

You will most likely have to change out the unit.

You most likely also have the filter screens broke off. If you get down to 1/4 of a tank and the truck runs out of fuel - this is why. The broke off screen tube only reaches down to the 1/4 tank level of the tank itself. However, maybe your screens are still intact.

There are some posts on here about these issues - just do a search.
 

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Sounds like the gauge itself is bad. The gauge has an electrical "filter", if you will, that averages/normalizes rapid swings in ohms resulting from the fuel moving in the tank.

Mine have been bouncing around since about 2000.
 

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Only RV chassis got the anti-slosh module; on all other trucks, it's just the gauge & the sender, as that album shows. The only thing that slows the needle down is the silicone grease inside the gauge movement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Only RV chassis got the anti-slosh module; on all other trucks, it's just the gauge & the sender, as that album shows. The only thing that slows the needle down is the silicone grease inside the gauge movement.
Is there any way to install one onto my truck without taking it somewhere and where could I get one if it is possible?
 

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Either way Steve it's the gauge.
How many bad fuel gauges have you found on these trucks? I've worked on hundreds, and I have probably a dozen clusters in a box right now, and I've come across one bad fuel gauge head. On most others, it was the SENDER. On a few, it was the gauge face adhesive letting go enough to interfere with the needle's movement.
 

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Hard to say when the senders actually failed; but in MANY, I've found both senders bad at one time. I've also found many dash switches bad, which affects both tanks. And I've found many instrument cluster connectors with enough corrosion to interfere with the gauge, which affects both tanks.
 

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Check the resistance across the sending unit. if the unit is good it will show a resistance of about 20 ohms when it is reading Empty on the fuel gauge. If the sending unit is bad, it will read as open or O/L on your VOM.
 
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