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2000, 7.3, Zf6, 4" turbo-back, flow-thru muffler, PHP Hydra, IDM delete, EGT, Boost, H20
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I pull a 7000 lb travel trailer and often have to climb several 6% grades. My stock 7.3 seems to work harder than I expected and could use a chip (probably go with a hydra).
Before I move the engine away from stock, I know an EGT probe and gauge are a must. I've also read that knowing fuel pressure is helpful as well.
My question is, do I get an HPOP gauge (up to 4,000 psi) or a 100 psi fuel pressure gauge?
The engine has 124K on it and runs well, just needs to be let loose a bit.

Any suggestions appreciated.
 

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2,548 Posts
Fuel pressure gage? .... Really no reason to run more than 70 PSI pressure. Consequently, no reason to have a gage of "4000" lbs. Were it an analog gage you couldn't even see normal pressures on that kind of graduation.

Pre Turbo EGT Gage and Boost Gage is a must to tow or monitor if chipped or repogrammed

Bigger more free flowing exhaust will help keep your EGT manageable. One can go with a bigger exhaust system, or, get a big exhaust flow improvement by removing the stock, baffle type, muffler and installing a BTM straight through muffler.

I prefer a programmer over a "chip" for my use. The Banks programmer I have wakes it up as much as I am able to use when I need to use it.
 

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Premium Member
2000, 7.3, Zf6, 4" turbo-back, flow-thru muffler, PHP Hydra, IDM delete, EGT, Boost, H20
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oneof6, thanks for the informative reply. My understanding was that knowing HPOP pressure (between 2800 and 3000) helps determine the amount of fuel you are pushing through the injectors. If it's low, there's a problem. I'm unsure how knowing the fuel or boost pressures help. I do plan on installing a boost gauge, though - just because. I suppose there's no end to putting a gauge on everything. However, as I don't plan on moving far from stock, an EGT is the only gauge required if I chip or program and keep the tune "light" - would you (or the forum) agree?
Replacing the muffler makes perfect sense. Is the flow-thru muffler much louder than stock?
 

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I installed a fuel pressure gage and I also believe I remember RT recommending it, it has saved me several times. Sure, if the truck is running great you don’t need it, but why not have immediate input when there are so many other things that can mask a fuel issue? Makes no sense to me not to have one.

Also, something like the scangage2 will give you lots of feedback from the trucks computer for helpful diagnosis and then a Ford capable code reader can be used to check and pull codes if indeed there’s a problem.
 

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Getting a ScanGauge allows you to monitor any and all sensors that report to the PCM. That would include IC pressure (HPOP pressure as you call it), IPR duty cycle, etc. Also lets you see real time and average fuel economy that can be calibrated to your truck.

I have a fuel pressure gauge. I would say it's one of the most valuable for diagnostics. If everything is running correctly, it doesn't move much.

The Walker BTM is a flow through muffler. I don't feel it is any louder than stock - sure makes the truck run better though.
 

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Premium Member
2000, 7.3, Zf6, 4" turbo-back, flow-thru muffler, PHP Hydra, IDM delete, EGT, Boost, H20
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks all for the feedback. Your comments have changed my perspective on what my goals are for sure. The plan now is to let the 7.3 breathe so a 4" exhaust and flow-thru muffler would be goal #1. Pre-turbo EGT, #2 (and gauge). I can't see wasting time/money with just a flow-thru on the stock exhaust only to find out it's still somewhat restricted. A chip or tune would be the final upgrade. It's all more than I wanted to spend but it's cheaper than a new truck and should improve my tow by quite a bit.
 

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Just my nickel's worth but I have a 5 speed in my 96 and all I run are the EGT pre turbo, and boost gauges. I figure that if something starts happening to the engine that might point to a fuel problem then I will plumb in a fuel pressure gauge to watch it. It will be directly on the filter housing and not inside of the cab. You really don't need to boost gauge but it is interesting to watch as you apply power going up hills and out on the flats. Plus it doesn't cost that much.

Also look at your down pipe from the turbo down to the conneciton point after the firewall and see if it is a round one or flat. I can't remember just what the 99+ years had. If it is flat you will want to replace it to let the exhaust flow better.
 

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I run just an EGT and boost gauge also. I do have a fuel pressure gauge under the hood though. But that's a little hard to see when driving down the road. ;) Haven't really seen a need for a fuel pressure gauge in the cab.

Bugman, the 99+ trucks came with a round downpipe (3.5"?), and a 4" downpipe fits just fine, as opposed to needing some firewall clearancing on the OBS trucks with flat downpipe.
 

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Premium Member
2000, 7.3, Zf6, 4" turbo-back, flow-thru muffler, PHP Hydra, IDM delete, EGT, Boost, H20
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks all for your input.
Here's the list and my reasons for going this route.
PHP Hydra chip
Everyone has their own opinion on chips and programmers. I selected the Hydra as it seems the most user-friendly, and comes with 15 pre-set "tunes". I'll probably use the 40 HP tune for towing - maybe the 65 if my Egts stay reasonable. Then switch to the 65 HP daily driver tune when I'm not towing.

Diamond Eye 4" Aluminized Turbo Back Single Outlet Exhaust 00-03 7.3L Ford Powerstroke K4318A
Basic turbo-back 4" exhaust and flow-thru muffler - no fancy tailpipe chingus. Plenty of positive reviews - welded hangers, and decent clamps. I'm hoping this allows me to run the 65 HP towing tune from the Hydra chip - we'll see.

3in1 Black Analog 35 PSI Boost w/ Digital EGT & Temperature Gauge
One gauge provides EGT, boost, and temp for tranny or H20. I'll hook the temp gauge to my water as the stock gauge is quite useless and I'm running a manual transmission.
No "pod" is required as it's only one gauge. I may find a place on the left front of the dash. Even if I have to mount it to the top of the dash, it's only one gauge. The gauge is from Glow-Shift and while it's no Autometer, it should provide all the info I need. To my knowledge, no one else offers this feature.

I'll post my results after I get all this installed.
 

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I highly recommend the scangauge II. I constantly monitor outdoor temp and fuel pressure with it. I can also cycle through to battery voltage and oil temp. It will do much more, but I don't have it set up for that. The fuel pressure is the reason I got it. All the other things it will monitor are just extras for me. I also have boost, EGT, and a few other gauges that may not be necessary. I have Power Hungry tunes of 50 TOW and 80 performance.
 

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Premium Member
2000, 7.3, Zf6, 4" turbo-back, flow-thru muffler, PHP Hydra, IDM delete, EGT, Boost, H20
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
My 4" exhaust kit showed up this afternoon. Man, that's some big pipe. I also received my EGT/Boost/Water temp gauge. I will be spending most of tomorrow under the truck.
Hopefully, just letting it breathe will bring some improvement. I may install the EGT first and take it for a spin. Then change the exhaust to see how much the temp drops with the bigger pipe and flow-through muffler.
 

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2000, 7.3, Zf6, 4" turbo-back, flow-thru muffler, PHP Hydra, IDM delete, EGT, Boost, H20
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The gauge is installed and working well. It's no Autometer but I like that it gives me the critical info I need in one gauge. I didn't realize when I ordered it that there are different display options. The one I picked has the boost shown with the needle. I would have rather had the needle show EGTs but it's the digital readout in the lower right. Oh well, it's still better than not knowing at all.
I took it for a short spin on a flat road. Punching it brings the EGTs to 800 or so and the boost gets close to 20 psi. That's an empty truck on flat ground with stock exhaust.
Here are some pics of where I put the three sensors and a few shots of the gauge.
Motor vehicle Vehicle Car Hood Automotive design

I tapped the Y - just seemed a lot cleaner.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exhaust Automotive exterior Bumper

EGT - pre-turbo

Automotive lighting Hood Automotive tire Water Motor vehicle

The backside view shows the 4 wires - Power, EGT, WATER, BOOST
I ran the sensor wires into the cab through a small hole I made in the steering shaft grommet, bringing one wire through at a time. I still need to tidy up all the extra wire under the dash and will do that once the Hydra chip is in and the PCM is back in place.

Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive tire

Front view. The provided base is made so it can be form fit to the dash curves. I tucked the thin sheet metal at the front of the base under the dash plastic and used the 3M strips under the remainder of the mount - It's pretty solid.

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive wheel system Automotive exterior Rim

There was a 3/8 NPT plug in the side of the thermostat housing. I replaced it with a brass 3/8 to 1/8 bushing.

My 4" pipe install is not going well at all. The old pipe is out and I'm stuck trying to get the 4" downpipe to fit. I have a new post regarding the issue.
The Hydra chip is ordered and the PCM is cleaned and ready to accept the chip. The truck is down until I get the downpipe sorted and the chip installed.
I may put the stock downpipe back in and adapt it to the 4" as soon as it clears the firewall. I've read that the 4" off the turbo actually decreases low-end torque but I'm not sure how true that is.

Does anyone want to chime in with the max EGT numbers I want to see?
 
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