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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So a 5°F day , and my 01 F250 7.3 6 speed refused to start . Found my block heater was not working , no power getting to the heater plug. Also found my Glow Plug Relay working perfectly. So I decided to change out my Glow plugs that have been in there since delivery from the factory in December 2000. Also decided to slap a new block heater in there and change out the coolant which should have been done at 100,000. Found 6 out of 8 glow plugs no good ( 2 at .6 ohms, 4 at .5 , and 2 at .4 ohms. ) So I opened up the radiator drain plug and let it drain . I also removed the block heater and let it drain from there too. I stuck a hose in the reservoir and flushed things out for 10 minutes or so and let it drain again. I closed the drain plug and installed the new block heater . So I had purchased 4 gallons of coolant ( capacity 31-33 quarts) and proceeded to add first a gallon of coolant followed by a gallon of soft water. But it was full after 3 gallons of coolant and about 2.75 gallons of water! That's only 5.75 gallons out of 8 . So there must have been 2.25 gallons of water left in there . I started it up and still it didn't go down ! My buddy has a coolant test strip and is bringing it over tomorrow to check it. It looks weak to me so now what ? I guess I need to drain it again and measure what comes out ... What say you experts ...
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Did you pull the block drain on the passenger side of the engine? It is possible that you got a air lock on the drivers side that didn't allow all the coolant out of that side either.

Did you have the engine running when you were flushing it?

Here are some great instructions on changing and flushing the coolant system

 

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I'd just catch the coolant that you have in it and reuse it.

Then after you refill the engine with it test it and see if you need to add extra coolant.

When I do my flush and fill I'll flush it with distilled water per Gooch's instructions but I have never been able to get the block drains out. So I'll do extra flushing with distilled water. Then I'll add the correct amount of concentrated coolant and get the air bubbles out. Then top it off with distilled water.
 

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There are several Coolant recommendations in the DIY in Post #2 by Bugman.

One recommendation would be to add the full quantity of coolant before adding distilled water.

Distilled Water is recommended over Soft Water.

The Prestone website describes this All Vehicle Coolant as “compatible” with all types of coolants; however, I think you will find the majority of the forum members have followed Gooch DIY Recommended Heavy Duty Coolant options after a thorough flush.

 

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I never have liked the one product fits all applications.

Call me old school but I use NAPA Heavy Duty antifreeze concentrate. Not the premixed stuff but concentrate. I will also check the SCA's in the coolant once a year and add the additive to keep it up to where it belongs.

There are a number of long life coolants and I believe that some of them are listed in the link that I provided.

But I figure that when it comes to the coolant in the engine that you need to do some homework and then decided for yourself.
 

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I can only speak for myself since I do not know your finances or truck plans.

If I was going to just keep the truck 1-2 years or if it was pretty rusted out then I would not spend any more money than necessary and use the Prestone you already have in the system.

If I had a nice clean 7.3 with less than 250K miles and I had plans to keep it on the road as long as possible then I would do a Gooch flush and add Extended Life Coolant (ELC).

So it really depends on your own circumstance.

You could even run this current Prestone for a year and then switch to ELC (assuming you add more now to reach a 50/50 mix). There are sufficient additives in that Prestone to protect your cooling system for a year, IMO.
 

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Or save the Prestone for a gasser that needs a coolant flush...
 
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You can test the coolant in it and do some math to figure out how to get it to 50%. Use the 8 gallon capacity to determine how much concentrated coolant to add (should be around 2 gallons), put that in and then refill with what you drained out. That Prestone coolant can be reused in either your diesel or in a gasser as RT suggested. If you change to something else like ELC in the diesel, you'll need to flush again to get the Prestone out of the system, or the ELC becomes conventional for the purposes of maintenance.
Always add the concentrated coolant first followed by distilled water (Reverse Osmosis is also OK).
 

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My opinion, a 60 dollar flush and fill is regular maintenance. If one is not committed to maintaining the basic systems of this engine they will soon be unhappy, if one decides to delay a 60 dollar flush and get this sorted out and settled he will soon be unhappy, it just takes cavitation damage between pump impeller and front cover to make a 60 buck flush seem cheeeeeep.

OP .... chemical flush what you have with a tap water fill to get the rust out, flush that (Gooch Method) with distilled water only to clean the tap water out. Then...... go to Tractor Supply and buy 4 gallons Rotella ELC concentrate, 15 bucks a gallon, drain the radiator down, pour the 4 gallons of concentrate in and that's it, resultant is a 50/50 mix of Top quality ELC snd distilled good for longer than your current engine. To maximize pump life a coolant filter is recommended. They are available on Dieselsite.com. I wish that all the issues I have ever found on my truck had 60 dollar solutions. 106
 

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it just takes cavitation damage between pump impeller and front cover to make a 60 buck flush seem cheeeeeep.
This Prestone Coolant is rated for both Gas & Diesel engines.
 

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In my region of CO/WY, the 7.3’s are being bought by young guys. I was saving up for a house when I was young and usually pretty broke.

Many people are still in tough shape following Covid damage to the economy and outrageous inflation. The median cost of a home increased over 20% just last year in these parts.

I would rather see a new 7.3 owner spend limited resources on brakes, tires, working lights, oil change & ATF change before dumping out new Engine Coolant that will do its job of protecting the cooling system for atleast a year while repair triage takes place.

But if someone has found evidence of cavitation as a result of this Coolant in the first year OR better yet a Blackstone Test that its depleted then please post it for the benefit of the forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
yup I'm going to dump it and put in a elc and save the other stuff for my gas beater car
In my region of CO/WY, the 7.3’s are being bought by young guys. I was saving up for a house when I was young and usually pretty broke.

Many people are still in tough shape following Covid damage to the economy and outrageous inflation. The median cost of a home increased over 20% just last year in these parts.

I would rather see a new 7.3 owner spend limited resources on brakes, tires, working lights, oil change & ATF change before dumping out new Engine Coolant that will do its job of protecting the cooling system for atleast a year while repair triage takes place.

But if someone has found evidence of cavitation as a result of this Coolant in the first year OR better yet a Blackstone Test that its depleted then please post it for the benefit of the forum.
I ordered this truck from the factory and plan on giving it to my son upon my death .He wants it along with a bunch of other guys who have offered to buy it. It has low mileage because I don't use it as an everyday vehicle . It's a work horse . Have hauled hay, horses , farm implements, goose necks 5th wheels, other vehicles and you name it I have maintained it to the best of my ability and have only gone to the shop/dealer for repairs once after warranty. That was for a rough running engine/CEL 2 days before a 1300 mile tow. It cost me 462$ to tape 2 rubbed bare wires on the 42 pin wire harness on the driver's side valve cover of # 2 & 5 injectors! 462$ for a black electrical tape job! #$&4(;:#@!! . I being retired decided I would learn all I could about this truck and do my own wrenching on it . I love this truck and the 7.3 engine by International Harvester .. Too bad this great American company went belly up. So though I am not rich , I will dump and save the Prestone and put in an ELC . When my son gets this truck it's going to be in tip top shape. Thanks to these forums and all you guys who take the time to help out dummies like me . At 70 ,I still know that I have lots to learn and by the grace of God , I do. This glow plug job was the most difficult thing I have done .. My body is so broken that it is extremely hard on me to get at the engine .I did this job in my cold dirt floor barn next to the stinking chicken coop and horse stall . the back bolts on both valve covers next to the firewall were a real ***** . So Thanks Arctic Driver and everyone for your input .
 

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I like coolant certainty; certainty about products, certainty about mix ratios, certainty about system cleanliness. I may go a bit overboard on proactive sometimes in order to avoid a reactive response later at an inconvenient roadside time.
I commend the OP for wanting to pass this family unit down to his son in top condition. That matters to fathers. I share his discomfort at 70 but like his grit to keep wrenching, hope he can pass that along too. 106
 

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I stand corrected by Gooch:
[ QUOTE ]
By WayneB:

Well the US Gov't is charging Prestone with false advertising for the claims they are making on the coolant you want to use.

[/ QUOTE ]

Interesting. Where did you hear that? Do you have a reference?

Prestone prints right on the bottle that you should always refer to your Owner's material for the proper coolant.

They also provide a phone number that you can call with any questions.

I did call. They were completely honest and said that, although you could safely use it in any diesel, it was never intended for diesels because it doesn't contain SCA's. They further explained that they manufacture other coolants, both conventional and extended life, that are specifically for diesel engines. They told me that the "all makes all models" coolant meets ASTM D4985 and ASTM D3306 as printed on the bottle (those are the same specs that meet Ford's "Green" low-silicate requirements). They said by adding SCA to it, it would meet ASTM D6210, the heavy duty diesel spec.

Although it might not meet your spec, I fail to see why it can't be used in any vehicle. It's compatible with anything. You could top-off with it (but I wouldn't exceed 15% dilution to the original coolant in order to maintain the original coolant's long life properties). And it is an excellent long life modern coolant. You could flush and fill with it (if you added SCA).

I saw a popular name-brand gasoline for sale the other day that said, "keeps all fuel injected engines running cleaner". So if I put that stuff in my fuel injected diesel will my engine run cleaner? Or should I just have the government sue the gasoline maker? Come on. It's always been "buyer beware". The government is removing any reason for people to think for themselves these days. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif


[ QUOTE ]
By WayneB:

I would NEVER use a UNIVERSAL fluid of any kind for my vehicles.

[/ QUOTE ]

FYI, the Gold G-05 is a "UNIVERSAL" coolant. At least that's what both Valvoline/Zerex (who supplies the Ford Motorcraft Gold) and BASF (who supplies the formulation to Valvoline/Zerex) calls it.
From this thread:
 

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Found a Virgin Lab Test and it indicates sufficient levels of Phosphate to meet short term use:

 

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While searching for a Blackstone Test I came across this decent list of various Diesel Coolants compiled by Prestone for their Command Series.

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Prestone Command was what i reserched and found to be acceptable for a 97, we are alittle more limited than 99+ models and its got a 500k life

Says to be precharged with SCAs and registered correct on the test strips


Also looking into Fleetrite ELC NOAT

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