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My truck for some reason always needed 1.5 or 2 full glow plug cycles from the stock controller in order to get the plugs hot enough to start, even on an 80 degree day. This winter it became almost impossible to start, and then I finally had to crank on it forever with the battery charger on boost and block heater plugged in to get it to start. Here are a couple things I learned in the process of getting it back to a normally-starting engine.
1. Do NOT try to start your engine while the battery charger is on. I learned too late that the high voltage can burn out glow plugs (mine puts out about 16 volts when connected to the leads of a voltmeter). Charge the batteries, then turn the charger off before a start attempt.
2. As part of your service, clean ALL of the connections in the glow plug system as well as all of the battery cable connections. This includes the connectors on the plugs themselves, the 8-pin junction plug that comes from the engine to the passenger fender, both posts on the glow plug relay, and the wire that comes from the battery that feeds the GPR. Scrape out crud inside the connectors, spray out with cleaner, blow dry. Wire brush the eyelet connectors on the GPR, as well as the bottom of the hold-down nuts. I even went so far as to use dielectric compound on all of the connections to avoid any future corrosion. My thought is that even though the circuit showed no appreciable resistance on the ohmmeter, they didn't have a large path when the GPs tried to pull high amperage down them, much like using too small of a cable to power the starter.
After doing this service and changing the glow plugs (since I had 4 of them burned out, presumably from the battery charger usage) it will start with a single cycle of glow plugs at 40 degrees F which is performance better than I've ever had before. Just goes to show that attention to detail pays off.
1. Do NOT try to start your engine while the battery charger is on. I learned too late that the high voltage can burn out glow plugs (mine puts out about 16 volts when connected to the leads of a voltmeter). Charge the batteries, then turn the charger off before a start attempt.
2. As part of your service, clean ALL of the connections in the glow plug system as well as all of the battery cable connections. This includes the connectors on the plugs themselves, the 8-pin junction plug that comes from the engine to the passenger fender, both posts on the glow plug relay, and the wire that comes from the battery that feeds the GPR. Scrape out crud inside the connectors, spray out with cleaner, blow dry. Wire brush the eyelet connectors on the GPR, as well as the bottom of the hold-down nuts. I even went so far as to use dielectric compound on all of the connections to avoid any future corrosion. My thought is that even though the circuit showed no appreciable resistance on the ohmmeter, they didn't have a large path when the GPs tried to pull high amperage down them, much like using too small of a cable to power the starter.
After doing this service and changing the glow plugs (since I had 4 of them burned out, presumably from the battery charger usage) it will start with a single cycle of glow plugs at 40 degrees F which is performance better than I've ever had before. Just goes to show that attention to detail pays off.