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need to confirm 83-86 f250 6.9 glowplug relay wiring diagram.
2BIG posts
on one side is battery power from starter
the other is output to glowplugs

2SMALL POSTS
one side is from ignition (white)
the other side to ground??

is this relay conected to starter solinoid anywhere?

my prob is that this is in a 1979 f250 which was running 100% top shape untill i loaned it to my brother 2 mos. ago. just got it back with all glo plugs fried. went to ford bought new plugs, relay, controller. put plugs and relay in so far. when i turn the ignition, light illuminates for about 4 sec then goes off, then on again for 1 sec about three sec later. is this correct or is my wiring screwed up or do i need to install the new controller.
any and all info greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.
 

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mine is the factory system and i have a black wire and a red, but they both go into the wiring harness...and im not about to rip that thingy apart

but its what mine does, exactly 4 full secons on, then off for 3 then on really quick again...then sometimes it cycles more depending on how crappy the motor runs when it fires up (the colder it is the more it cycles)

if it dosent start after than then i need to turn the key off for 30 sec. and then start the cycles over (i guess the controler resets) and 98% of the time it starts up on that second attempt...

being that i dont know any of the schematics of the gp system im really sorry i dont know anymore....anyhow,,

merry christmas!!!!!!
 

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I have schematics of the 83 to 86 systems and can e-mail. 83 was slightly different than 84 to 86. It had the wonderful "after-glow" relay that failed so often.
 

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if you don't manually operate the glow plugs I guess this won't apply to you, but for those who have a push button/manual switch for their glow plugs, similar to ziggy's setup, what gauge wire did you run from the battery to the switch, and then from the switch to the gp relay? I was thinking about running a wire from the gp relay where the postive battery terminal connects to, to the switch, and then from the switch to a small bolt, and then ground the other small bolt on the frame. I'm afraid of a surge entering the system and frying something. Would a 30A or 10A fuse be best to wire into the system?
 

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I used a 12 guage wire and a 10 amp fuse. You don't want to get a much bigger fuse as that would increase the probability that you could/would fry a wire, the switch or something else. just unplug the controller and wrap both the wire and the controller to keep it rlatively clean. then, Run your wire from the relay switch (on the passeger fender well) where the purple wire was connected, back through the cab to the push button (Use one Rated for at least 20 amps) then back out to the inline fuse and the to the positive side of the battery post. Install the inline fuse right next to the battery for easy access in case you do need to change it out. You can solder your connections or use really good crimping connector like I did, then wrap them in electrical tape. Finish it up by zip tying the wiring out of the way and to keep the vibration from breaking your soldered/crimped connections. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif

Good Luck

Jeff
 

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YES!!,
the orange wires activate (goto) the glow plugs. check the wires carefully fir breaks and crack. Replace if necessary.
 

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Hi Guys

It's been a while since I've been here, but obviously it's cold again, and the glow plug issues have come up again.

[ QUOTE ]
I used a 12 gauge wire and a 10 amp fuse

[/ QUOTE ]

That's huge overkill for a bypass pushbutton circuit. You only need to run enough power to activate the relay. It is only a small electromagnet, and doesn't draw 10 amps. I'm not sure how much, but probably milliamps more likely.

You need to figure out if you have the 7.3 solid state system(I have a diagram of it, and how to bypass it too) or if it is the earlier 6.9 version.

You can do the 6.9 one 2 ways. Either give the relay constant 12v on the trigger side, and then run the ground side through the switch(leaves power on the trigger side all the time) or run a 12v wire(I get my power from the tiny wire that goes to the fuel side of the injection pump) via your dash switch to the trigger side, and then have a good ground hookup to the ground terminal of the relay.

The large red wire from the battery and the large orange wires to the glow plugs do all the work of carrying the large current load.

Here's the pic:

..click here..

Hope that helps some

Zigg /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

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wiring details please

I have schematics of the 83 to 86 systems and can e-mail. 83 was slightly different than 84 to 86. It had the wonderful "after-glow" relay that failed so often.

My father got an 1984 F250 Diesel in some of his horse trading and the glow plugs dont turn on. Can you email me the schematics so I can T/S this for him.

TIA Rob
[email protected]
 
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