[nivrig]

I'm working on my 2001 7.3. I just replaced the windshield due to a water leak and I'm not sure what the water got into under the dash. I'm not sure if these two problems are leak related or not. I have read numerous post and need some guidance.

1. Fuel gauge goes to full when key is on. All post I found said to replace tank sender. Could this be leak related, PCM maybe???

2. GPR - Small terminal, red wire. There's .88 volts with the key off and wire disconnected. It should be zero. Again, could this be leak related, PCM maybe???

Any suggestions and guidance on what to do to correct these problems would be greatly appreciate.

Sam

 

[RT]

The fuel gauge does not go through the PCM (or the water affected GEM) so that's a separate issue. Take the wire off the sender - if it returns to zero, you know the sender is at fault. If it doesn't, you could have a shorted wire or a bad gauge. The test for that would be to unplug the wire from the back of the instrument cluster. If its the cluster, send it to CircuitBoardMedics.com

 

[nivrig]

Thanks RT for the response, I will check it out. That takes care of one of the problems.

 

[klhansen]

The fuel gauge does not go through the PCM (or the water affected GEM) so that's a separate issue. Take the wire off the sender - if it returns to zero, you know the sender is at fault. If it doesn't, you could have a shorted wire or a bad gauge. The test for that would be to unplug the wire from the back of the instrument cluster. If its the cluster, send it to CircuitBoardMedics.com

Actually, if you unplug the sender the gauge goes to full, so a gauge that reads full could be simply an open circuit (broken wire). The resistance of the sender is 15 ohms empty and 160 ohms or higher would be full. The best way to check the sender is to unplug it and measure the resistance. If your tank is half full, you should get a reading of somewhere between 15 and 160 ohms.
Also get a 15 ohm resistor and short it across the body side of the connector and the gauge should go to empty. Remove the resistor and it should go to full. Otherwise, the instrument panel would be suspect.

 

[nivrig]

Thanks klhansen, I will pick up a resistor today. Just trying to figure out what the the leak may have messed up.

Now, onto the the GPR.

The windshield leak was on the drivers side. Could that have gotten into the PCM or other electrical devices and cause the GPR to have .88 volts on the small red wire when the key is off??? When the red wire is reconnected it supplies .88 volts to the small pink wire.

GPR does work, but always has power to the red wire. There is output to the glow plugs but there is not much drop on the volt gauge like it use to.

With the engine running the red wire has 12.3 volts and the pink has .58 volts.

I do have an AE scan tool and the only code I get is a 605 which is suppose to be related to the DP chip according to DP.


All responses are appreciated.

Sam

 

[RT]

Actually, if you unplug the sender the gauge goes to full, so a gauge that reads full could be simply an open circuit (broken wire).

Crap - I always get that backwards, don't I.

I wouldn't go buy a resistor though - just disconnect the wire from the sender and short it to ground for a quick test.

As to the GPR, you can't measure the wires while they are still attached. You are getting some measure of resistance through the internal coil of the solenoid. You'll have to pull the wires and test. One wire is key on 12 volts +, the other grounds through the PCM when it calls for the GPR to be activated.

 

[Little_Giant]

Thanks klhansen, I will pick up a resistor today. Just trying to figure out what the the leak may have messed up.

Now, onto the the GPR.

The windshield leak was on the drivers side. Could that have gotten into the PCM or other electrical devices and cause the GPR to have .88 volts on the small red wire when the key is off??? When the red wire is reconnected it supplies .88 volts to the small pink wire.

GPR does work, but always has power to the red wire. There is output to the glow plugs but there is not much drop on the volt gauge like it use to.

With the engine running the red wire has 12.3 volts and the pink has .58 volts.

I do have an AE scan tool and the only code I get is a 605 which is suppose to be related to the DP chip according to DP.


All responses are appreciated.

Sam

Take a look at this thread.

http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums...pcm-criteria-p0381-alternator-control-570050/

Is your battery light on? 12.3V with the engine running indicates a problem with the charging system.

Not saying its the same issue for sure, the original poster in the thread I linked had an alternator that wasn't charging, and a stray .82v at the GPR. coincidental.

Either way, some good troubleshooting steps in the thread from NYB and the original poster.

 

[nivrig]

Little Giant
Thanks for the link to the alternator testing that NYB wrote, it was very informative.

Where I'm at today.
1. No codes show up other than 605 which is related to DP chip. Nothing shows up on dash indicators, i.e. service eng, batt, etc.
2. Tested alternator - I terminal has .12 volts with key off, should be 0 volts. All else is good
3. GPR - Red wire has .88 volts when wire is disconnected with key off, should be 0 volts.

Two things will make these two items go to 0 volts as they should be.
1. Pull under hood fuse 22 - Junction Box Battery Feed, or
2. Pull dash fuse 15 - GEM, PCM, ABS, Instrument cluster, PCM Keep Alive Memory, Stop Lamp SW

Anybody have any suggestions on what may be causing this? Remember, I did have a drivers side windshield leak, it's the 2001.

Sam

 

[nivrig]

Anybody have any thoughts on this???

sam

 

[nivrig]

Well it's time to put this problem to bed for a couple weeks. Here in Maryland, it's Trophy Rock Fish Season on the Chesapeake Bay. Taking the camper and heading to Point Lookout State Park today, son is bringing his boat down tomorrow.

If anybody has any suggestions on the following, please post and I will check it out when I get back.

sam

"Where I'm at today.
1. No codes show up other than 605 which is related to DP chip. Nothing shows up on dash indicators, i.e. service eng, batt, etc.
2. Tested alternator - I terminal has .12 volts with key off, should be 0 volts. All else is good
3. GPR - Red wire has .88 volts when wire is disconnected with key off, should be 0 volts.

Two things will make these two items go to 0 volts as they should be.
1. Pull under hood fuse 22 - Junction Box Battery Feed, or
2. Pull dash fuse 15 - GEM, PCM, ABS, Instrument cluster, PCM Keep Alive Memory, Stop Lamp SW

Anybody have any suggestions on what may be causing this? Remember, I did have a drivers side windshield leak, it's the 2001."