The Diesel Stop banner

1 - 20 of 50 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Where I live it has recently dropped into the 40's, and my 99' 7.3 really doesn't seem to be liking it. I can still get it started with a jump, but it's still brutal. At first I thought it we're just my batteries (which it could be), since after 1-2 decent turnovers the cranking slows down greatly. I tested them and they have 12.6 volts with the truck off. Then I considered the glow plugs relay since I just did all my glow plugs a couple months ago with ZD-11'S. I just tested it and I'm getting power to the glow plugs side of things with the key "on." Reading 10.5 volts or so. I have yet to change my oil to a thinner blend (currently at Rotella T4 15w-40). Could a mixture of the thicker oil and possibly weakening batteries be causing me all of this trouble?

More info- When I jump the truck I have to cycle the plugs about 7 times and give it some gas. About 4 cycles through, it will romp once then shut off. When I finally get it to start, pushing down on the go pedal rapidly, it will romp really badly for 5 seconds or so, then even out. I was really thinking it was going to be the glow plug relay, possibly I tested the wrong relay if there's more than one?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
25,085 Posts
Your early 99 has only one relay in the valley. There's no Intake Air Heater on the early models. The GPR will have large gauge brown and yellow wires on the output terminal.

You should get your batteries load tested (separately) to be sure they are up to the task. The slow cranking may be battery problems, or it could be the starter. You shouldn't have issues with 15W-40 oil at 40F. I run it all winter at much lower temperatures. I recently changed out the original starter which was cranking very slowly, causing extended cranking before it started. Quite a difference in cranking speed with the rebuilt starter I installed.

You shouldn't need to push the go pedal to get it to start. It's possible you have issues with the IPR or some other issue with the HP oil system, although those typically show up when hot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I'll test the batteries soon separately. I believe the past owner put in a new starter but I would have to take a look at it. I didn't have any issues starting it when the temps were warm. Thanks KL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,666 Posts
Before you start buying parts, make sure the batteries are fully charged with the battery charger. Then once you get it started check the alternator output also this should be around 14 V you can lose a diode in the alternator that will make it not charge properly but won’t light up the idiot light. The oil is not the issue! I would lean towards a alternator going bad or bad starter if your batteries check out OK.
DENNY
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Okay, I'll be sure to do that. Also when I start it it almost sounds like it's not getting fuel. Most cold starts that I watch on YouTube some smoke comes out the tailpipe and you can hear the engine turning over. When I start it I only hear the starter and there's no smoke to my knowledge.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,932 Posts
You should see white smoke out the tailpipe in large quantity.

Do you have a block heater that you can plug into a 120v wall outlet? Is there a cord near your front bumper dangling down or tucked inside? If so then plug it in until you sort this out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Yes I do have one but I still need to add some coolant or do a flush as I've been pretty busy. It sounds like a car that will not start basically.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,500 Posts
Read this - View attachment PoppetValve.pdf

Our weather recently took a nosedive as well. One day its in the 90s. Next morning it's 32 and we have frost all over the place. My truck started right up without cycling the glow plugs. Granted, it's a dog until you get some heat in the motor, but it started fine.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,500 Posts
Opens for me. It is a .pdf link, so when you click on it, you should see a file download.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,932 Posts
Very informative pdf.

I could not open the attachment on my iphone;however, pressing on the image allowed it to enlarge so I could read it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Okay I got it to open, I hope that's not the case but it sounds like my issue. I really don't think it's my starter, it looks relatively new. I tested my batteries, one is reading 12.02v and the other reads 11.70. One is a motorcraft the other is a Optima (both 750cca). I think I definitely need new batteries and I'll end up getting some blemished ones like Arctic mentioned. Possibly an alternator as well, I have yet to test it. In the PDF it mentions that the issue resolved once the oil is warm it thins out, am I able to use a low viscosity oil this winter until I could get some new injectors to help out? I was planning on saving for new Injectors this winter anyways.

When I drove the truck a week ago, I experienced something odd. I floored it to listen to the turbo (3 seconds top), then I let off the gas completely for around 5 seconds. I then went to give it some more gas (a normal depression of the pedal this time) and I had absolutely no throttle throttle response, meaning that that I had no rpm change even when I pressed the gas. It only took 2 seconds depressing the gas tops until the RPMs immediately jumped to 2000 or so. It was really strange and I hope I explained it okay. I've experienced this issue 3 or 4 separate times now. Possibly this is another sign of the injectors going out? Thanks y'all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Also, when I rev it in park, it stumbles pretty badly. I believe it should be smooth. Even when the engine is warm. I hope I can upload a video to YouTube soon to show you guys exactly what I mean
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,500 Posts
Low viscosity oil definitely will extend the need to address the issue. Batteries should be at 12.6 volts resting. Yours are nearly completely discharged. Got to get that addressed first.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,932 Posts
Like RT said, your batteries are bad.

Its common to think a 12v battery should still be fine with 11v and dead would be much lower like 6v but it doesn’t work like that.

A good and healthy 12v battery should be atleast 12.6v and will usually be 13+ right after it was charged.

Plugging in the block heater will help until you have a chance to get batteries. Its lousy you have to keep spending so much money on your rig.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I learn something new every day, I would've thought 11v was completely fine. There's only one problem I'll have with the block heater. Overnight I can plug it in but once I'm at school it will sit for 7 hours unplugged. I still have my car I can drive, so if the batteries don't solve anything, I may have to wait until it's warmer out to do injectors if that's the case or I could pay a shop to do it which I would hate to have to do (The truck won't fit in my garage). Yes it does suck that I'm having to put in all this money, but I'm trying to be optimistic about it and look forward to when it's running like a top. I couldn't have gotten this far without all of your guy's help!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,500 Posts
You wouldn't necessarily have to replace the injectors. They make shims that will get your poppet valves back to spec. Search eBay for "94-03 7.3 POWERSTROKE injector repair KIT w/ external seals, screws & shims" by truckrental. The kit is $110 - less than the cost of one rebuilt injector.

Here's a chart that will help understand battery voltage to charge percentage:

View attachment State_of_charge_12_volt_batteries.pdf
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I understand it would be a lot cheaper just for the kit but I was planning on getting new inejctors anyways since mine have 250000 on them and I'm not sure how much life they have left, I'd just like to cross then off of my list of stuff to worry about. Another reason being that I'd like some that perform better. I'll have to think about it. In the mean time, what viscosity oil would you recommend (currently t4 15-40)? Assuming the batteries don't solve the cold starting issue. I currently have them on the charger, just have to add some coolant
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,500 Posts
5W40 is what most people use. There are some diesel rated 10W30s, but I wouldn't use that unless you lived in the Arctics.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,932 Posts
RT,
That voltage chart is great. Its even more extreme than I thought.

5w40 is what I use.

WalMart usually had the best prices; however, sales come up at NAPA and elsewhere.

Forester, just remember the 5w40 is full synthetic and has a longer oil change interval (5K-6K miles average). The best filter for the money is the Motorcraft FL-1995 available at Wal-Mart for under $10.

Before you buy the oil, check in here because not all DELO oils are good. Alot of guys get Rotella T6 and the NAPA Valvoline Blue.
 
1 - 20 of 50 Posts
Top