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Hi,

I have an '01 F250 Superduty with the 7.3 and a six-speed manual. I had to have the transmission replaced by the dealership after my truck was recovered after a theft. The stupid dealership did not replace the whole clutch assembly, only the pilot bearing because they said it looked like there was suffient material left on the plate. The problem started when I got the truck back. It has been hard to shift between all gears and occasionally will grind a bit going into 6th gear. It will whine a bit when it is downshifted, even without releasing the clutch.

The dealership told me to try it for a couple hunderd miles to see if it gets better, but it has not. I really don't want to take it back to them because for one thing the clutch is almost $1,500 for them to replace with the stock unit.

I have tried to troubleshoot the shifting problem by removing the clutch slave cylinder and pushing the rod in several times to help bleed the system. All the while making sure the resevoir is full of fluid.

I have also tried the test of placing the truck in 4th gear and starting to drive. Making sure that the truck will die and it does. I assume this is to test for slippage.

The second test I performed was to push the pedal to within about 1/2" of the floor and try to shift. It is really hard to shift in this position and all the way down to the floor.

I am thinking that I need to replace the pressure plate or possible the throwout bearing. I intend on replacing the whole assembly with a single mass clutch, probably Southbend.

My questions are am I on the right track with replacing the whole clutch assembly based on the tests I've performed? Also, is the Southbend single mass clutch a good one to replace the dual mass with? Finally, which Southbend clutch would anyone recommend, I've been thinking of either the the ConO or the ConOFE. I presently have a DP Tuner chip in the truck and intend on doing some other performance mods, i.e. larger exhaust, different waste gate, and or wicked wheel. The truck presently is not used for towing, but may be used to tow a travel trailer in the future. I apologize for the lengthy post, but I wanted to present all the information. Thank you for any advice.
 

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There is a chance your fork is bent. I know some of the earlier models had a weak clutch fork - I'm not sure what year they took care of that. If the fork is bent, the slave cylinder can't completely disengage the clutch. Worth looking at.
 

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What caused the need for the tranny replacement? Was it broken internally? These things are pretty tough.

If they did a bad job on the pilot bearing replacement, it could be causing enough resistance when the cluch is released to cause the hard shifting. Could also be that the disk got warped from them hanging the tranny off the input shaft. The wobble of a warped disk assembly in relation to the input shaft could cause it to drag on the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces.

Does it go into gear OK from a stop with the engine running? If so, then the clutch is releasing correctly, and maybe they installed a "repaint" instead of a rebuilt tranny, and the synchro's are not right. If not, that's a sign of the clutch not releasing correctly.

BTW, your truck already has a single mass flywheel. As far as the SB clutch, I've had real good service from my ConOFE, but don't tow much. Talk to the guys at Southbend and let them know what you'll be doing. I understand that one of their SAE style clutches is better for heavy towing than the ConO or OFE setups.
 

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Does it get better if you pump the clutch pedal? I am wondering if they did not get the clutch bled completely, it's kind of an ordeal.
 

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You should look at the slave cylinder rod when you pull it out, noting where it is and how hard it is to put the thing back in. I just had mine out yesterday to bleed a new master and found it a real bear until I pulled the reservoir and hung it straight up from the master. Seems the air didn't like going over the brake cylinder and then back down before coming up into it. I also had the bent fork for awhile, until ultimately it did this

From the point of creeping in 1st with the clutch in to broke was 2 days. A 20mile tow was covered by insurance, the part was $60, the fact I didn't end up climbing up over the backend of a car, priceless.
 

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I'd be wondering about the transmission that was put in. Was it new or rebuilt or??? Also, check the fork depth by measuring with an old pushrod or phillips screwdriver to see if it's bent. Pull the slave cylinder out of the transmission and put the phillips screwdriver into the divot where the master piston rod resides. Measure the depth with your finger or a straight edge against the edge of hole in the transmission. Mine was just starting to bend and it measured out to be about 3.25 inches. From what I understand it should be about 3.125". If anyone has the exact factory measurement please chime in.
This is a 10 minute check that might give you an answer. Good luck.
 
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