Have someone push the clutch pedal while you watch the clutch master cylinder, if it moves you have a cracked firewall. It is a common problem, let us know what you find and we can offer some help.

Welcome to the site.

 

Joe,

Thanks for the quick reply. Just went out and had my wife push on the clutch a few times. The master isn't moving at all from where its mounted on the wall. I also stuck my head under the body and saw the slave cylinder was moving the arm properly too. Any thing else I should be checking? Thanks again,


Jason

 

The shop manual says that the slave plunger should extend at least 0.53 inches when the pedal is pushed if the hydraulic system is working right.

I have seen 2 styles of slave cylinders, one has a standard bleeder valve on top of the slave. The other has a Allen screw in the front top corner of the slave, makes a real mess when the fluid shoots out. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Having the front of the truck higher helps in bleeding and compressing the slave rod into the cylinder by hand just before you close the bleeder also helps. Keep a close eye on the fluid level in the master as it drains fast.

The 1st time I bled mine I used over a quart of fluid, now it usually takes 2 tries. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif

 

Joe,

Just located the bleeder valve (messy allen key type), and bled it. Problem solved. Thanks a million. It shifts now like it was brand new.

Jason

 

What I did to make my truck shift easy was to grease the throwout bearing shaft. To do this remove the slave cylinder{wire slave to keep it from coming a part} and then the shifting fork then clean shaft as well as you can not getting any thing on the throwout bearing. then put some grease on the shaft and move the throwout bearing bsck and forth untill it moves freely. Then reinstall the shifting fork then the slave cyclinder. This is what I found when reading the service manual but in fine print,not on maintance chart.
Bill